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My Custom Tail light Project READY TO BE INSTALLED


D_Venable
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Those look awesome man, great work.

 

 

To make a project like this cheaper would it be plausable to use some premade boards like these? http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product...sid/0/SFV/32481 That might decrease the cost substantially. Just a suggestion for anyone else looking to do something like this.

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Those look awesome man, great work.

 

 

To make a project like this cheaper would it be plausable to use some premade boards like these? http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product...sid/0/SFV/32481 That might decrease the cost substantially. Just a suggestion for anyone else looking to do something like this.

 

wow, great link. that's almost exactly the size and pattern I was talking about way back in this thread. hmm

 

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I also found this. http://www.ledsdirect.com/circuitboards3.htm Looks like they might be useful to make something work. I know absolutely nothing about wiring LEDs or what it takes to make them work but from what I learned in this thread it looks like those circuit boards would eliminate a big part of the fabrication process.
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Now that site I am very interested in. I just might be getting ahold of that one.

The boards are the difficult part for me to make. Everything else is a walk in the park ;)

 

Edit: Just ordered 10 of the strip pcb's. Going to have to find a decent set of tail lights though. My driver's side is cracked all to hell.

Sorry D but I am going to pretty much copy you :emot-bandwagon:

Edited by psu_Crash
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Ok now I know the way you did it is the "right way" but do you think it would be much easier to do this by just running traces of wire? Like when you do a repair on a board? Do you perceive any problems with that?
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yeah, you can do that too, that's how I started out almost 2 years ago now...

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF4631.jpg

 

 

As you can see, it becomes a real mess really quick.

 

the great advantage of doing it on boards with traces is that you have a lot less solder joints, making it easier to troubleshoot when one, or a strings of them don't work, which is what I kept running into on those, I get one string working, then another string would quit, gets frustrating, so I looked into etching my own boards. There are a few great video tutorials on youtube, and other websites.

 

And many have had good luck with certain types of photopaper, but it still requires the use of a laser printer, for the transfer.

 

Derek

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Are those ICs on your board above resistor arrays? .. or LED drivers? .. or?

 

I am using an individual resistor for every 2 LEDs with 3, 12V, 1 Amp regulators per tail.

Also going to use just white LEDs since my tails are still tinted.

I ordered 500 3mm 6000 MCD LEDs just to be sure I have enough. Figuring about 150 of them per tail, but I am still waiting on the pcbs to show up. Then I can really crunch some numbers and make sure I have everything straight.

Looks like I will probably get started on it this weekend. I'll be sure to start my own thread when I do ;)

 

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6 volt, and 8 volt regulators

 

6 volts are for the red and yellow, and 8 volts are for the white LEDs

 

I used them on the final board layout as well, although in a more friendly package (TO-220)

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF5882.jpg

Edited by D_Venable
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yeah I use a heat gun.

 

If you or anyone else has an email that can recieve an 11mb file, I'll email the 13 minute vid of me taking one apart. (it's too big for youtube, I've tried)

 

so far Gmail is the only email that I know of to accept files over 10mb

 

Derek

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  • 4 weeks later...
These look awsome. I have tried to do this by wiring the bulbs on non-clad pre drilled boards but it gets to crazy. I made a set from premade led trailer lights. But reading this makes me want to take another try. I have two questions. I see in one of your posts you use a sharpie to touch up the mask before you soak the boards. Do you think that or a paint marker would work just as well? also, Do you know where I could get copper clad boards say 4 or 6 by 16?
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yes you can use JUST a sharpie, in fact, radio shack's PCB etching kit, come with a sharpie for the traces. you just have to make sure the sharpie is 100% dry before you etch though. Plus you need to be sure it lays down a solid line (you probably know how a sharpie can "streak" on glossy surfaces)

 

I got the 18" x 18" copper clad board (1/16" thick with single side 1oz thickness of copper) that I used for this project from www.digikey.com, then I just used my dremel tool with a cut off wheel, or the air buzzsaws, and or the bandsaw set up for metal at work, to cut them down before etching

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  • 1 year later...

Made some more progress today. Stayed after work and finished "hacking" the driver's side housing out.

 

tried to take better pics of this one than I did of the finished side, to give a better visual understanding of what had to go.

 

<img src="http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF5844.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF5845.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF5846.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF5847.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

hey how o you get the lenses off? i tried and failed

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  • 1 year later...
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