psu_Crash Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 So I went to change my fuel filter today and it was a real PITA to get the top fitting off, which I expected. But how the hell do I get the bottom one off. I thought I could just pop it out of the harness and grab it with some channel locks. Well the fuel line doesn't have enough play in it to really move the filter to where I can get a good grip on it. I got frustrated and just hooked the top fitting back up and called it a day. So, what is the catch here. There has to be some easier way to get that SOB out of there. Tips? Tricks? Suggestions?? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 the one under the hood? they make wrenches that will fit the ends on the filter but you have to have the thin type, regular wrenches are usually too thick but go shopping and see if you can find the thinner ones then use a socket on the banjo bolt and they come right off. Remove that holder bracket if its in your way, don't pull the hose on the lower fitting to much it might start to leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 It's MUCH easier to remove the filter with BOTH hoses still attached. * Undo the upper one at the throttle body inlet... and replace the o-ring during re-assembly. * Follow the lower hose a few inches from the filter, you'll see where it attaches to a metal hard-line. Undo that junction. Now you can bring the filter & hoses to a workbench vise and clamp the snot out of that old junk filter to get the bolts out. Or you can put a wrench on the opposite end of the filter to whatever bolt you're trying to remove - that way your wrenches aren't jamming into each other and you won't need skinny wrenches. An impact gun/wrench really helps with bolts like these that grow mega-tight after a few years. Even the cordless "impact drivers" that you see at Home Depot or Lowes work well on many stubborn bolts. They probably won't be strong enough for the fuel filter bolts though... and certainly not those monster nuts on the driveshaft, pinion shaft, and half-shafts. Those need real air tool style impact guns. Have new copper washers ready too. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Thanks Guys! I thought about disconnecting the line where it turns to a hard line but didn't really want to risk messing up the seal there. That does sound like the easiest way though. Indiana, yep the wrenches I had were to thick to get to the ends on the filter. Monday I WILL get it changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 It's MUCH easier to remove the filter with BOTH hoses still attached. Thats the ticket... Its not too bad to get the lower fitting by the firewall and this way when you reinstall, you'll know you got the fittings tight enough. I probably just repeated everything Mike C. already said . I took a crappy 3/4" open end to the grinding wheel until it slipped between the filter body and the hose guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 (edited) The correct set of tools and a copy of the FSM, makes all the difference in the world :thumbsup: CALIBER 308 Edited June 22, 2008 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 The correct set of tools and a copy of the FSM, makes all the difference in the world :thumbsup: CALIBER 308 I have a copy of the FSM but just didn't have the right tool. Monday i will get that sucker changed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf87Conquest Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 While you are getting thinner wrenches, a metric set of flare nut wrenches (for fuel lines and nuts on flared lines) won't hurt. For hard to remove nuts/ bolts that you can get a socket on..a breaker bar (the longer the better) comes in very handy. I've had mine for quite a few years, it's a foot and a half long, and have run into many instances where it was very helpful. Sure, you could use the old long piece of heavy pipe on the socket wrench trick...but the breaker bar is much better. Won't slip off or destroy the ratchet pawl. An impact driver will work wonders. It does require special hardened sockets...regular sockets with an impact gun will break/ shatter. I don't own one, but could borrow my Dad's. I've found with the breaker bar, a litte PB Blaster, and a few minutes to let the PB soak in is all I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 It does require special hardened sockets...regular sockets with an impact gun will break/ shatter. Or craftsman ones that are free to replace if you do shatter it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 ^^X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Using a regular socket with an impact gun is asking for shrapnel when it shatters. Cuts, eyeballs, car paint... something is going to suffer when the socket lets go. Sometimes they just crack/split and nothing bad happens, other times though... mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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