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Looks to me like its good if you plan on running 7000 rpms all the time. I myself, and the majority of the membership on this site don't. Whats this about the mains suffering???

 

CALIBER 308

 

Don't villify me for selling this to the masses, That I never did, and I even went so far as to say it was a poor investment when other mods coud/should be done first.

 

If you want proof, there are 2 different members, with 2 completely different setups, and they both reported the same tremendous gains from it. You didn't read that thread did you ?!? BTW, neither of them rev at 7000 RPM either ;)

 

You want? proof, well there it is, 2 members that have been there, done that...

 

As for the mains suffering, that has not been proven.

 

Can we please end this thread-jack?

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How did I know this might happen by even mentioning the knife edge? (rolls eyes). There are a few other threads ALL about that debate with several members input who have actually had it done to various degrees. I'd expect any debate to continue on those threads AFTER reading what's already been written.

 

It is one thing to consider if building a high performance engine before balancing the internals. Oh well.

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Chad, Show us some proof that it prevents more oil than the "unknifed" crankshaft from being thrown around the crankcase, and not just your word. Internal video of the crankcase would be nice. Backed up by a professional engine analysis of the difference, and the professional opinion of a certified expert in the field of crankshafts for the 2.6 lt engine.

 

Thanks,

CALIBER 308

 

You are joking right? Did you google this stuff or ask anyone / speak to anyone that has experience with racing ?

 

You guys are being Trolled by Cal!

 

 

Anyway, Knife-edging is dual purposed..

 

1: Reducing rotating mass actually reduces the load on the bearings (Mains) (less mass = less inertia = less loading)

 

2: Reducing Drag (through the Air and through the Oil) - reducing the power needed to accelerate the Crank (and the rest of the rotating assembly ). This creates a more responsive engine.

 

3: Reducing Rotating Mass is additionally beneficial because it also allows the crank to accelerate quicker (more responsive engine).

 

Some of the mass is added to allow bad drivers an easier time on hills and stuff like that.. Makes the car a little more touchy when it comes to your technique. (Like the guy that stalls or cant launch the Ferrari because he cant master the coordination.)

Edited by Dcrasta
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Someone should to the math on pounds lossed and rpm for the rotational numbers.... its all in the numbers.

 

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...c=72107&hl=

 

 

 

 

If you take 7 lbs off the crank and the effective distance from the axis of rotation is 5".

 

7 lbs = 3.2 kg

5" = .127 meters

The moment of inertia of the weight removed is 3.2kg*(.127m^2) = 0.051 kg-m^2

 

 

Assuming 500 RPM per second engine acceleration:

(kg-m^2/sec^2) = .051 kg-m^2 * 52.4 rad/sec^2 = 2.7 N-m or 2 lbs-ft of torque

 

This is how much torque the mass would have taken away from accelerating the car if your changing the RPM at 500 RPM second.

 

To put a HP # to that figure at 5000 RPM it would be: 2(5000/5252) = 1.98 hp

 

 

 

Kevin C

Edited by TurboRaider
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http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...c=72107&hl=

 

 

 

 

If you take 7 lbs off the crank and the effective distance from the axis of rotation is 5".

 

7 lbs = 3.2 kg

5" = .127 meters

The moment of inertia of the weight removed is 3.2kg*(.127m^2) = 0.051 kg-m^2

 

 

Assuming 500 RPM per second engine acceleration:

(kg-m^2/sec^2) = .051 kg-m^2 * 52.4 rad/sec^2 = 2.7 N-m or 2 lbs-ft of torque

 

This is how much torque the mass would have taken away from accelerating the car if your changing the RPM at 500 RPM second.

 

To put a HP # to that figure at 5000 RPM it would be: 2(5000/5252) = 1.98 hp

 

 

 

Kevin C

 

You forgot to carry the 2 and divide by the earth's degree on it's axis.

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A waste of money!!!! Stock crankshaft throws plenty of oil around. My oil pressure at idle is: 3/4 on the stock oil pressure gauge. So, am I getting enough oil thrown around without" Knife- Edgeing" my crankshaft?? Here we go: "We'll just shave a little material off your crank", Money spent. "And we will have to rebalance your crankshaft", More money spent!!!! Spend your money wisely!!!

 

 

CALIBER 308

 

 

 

 

 

Oh wow... I had to quote that one so you can't edit it...even though you already did.

 

Priceless.

 

 

 

 

HAHAHA , gotta love that one - he seems SO sure of what he's saying - lol

 

 

 

 

Chad, Show us some proof that it prevents more oil than the "unknifed" crankshaft from being thrown around the crankcase, and not just your word. Internal video of the crankcase would be nice. Backed up by a professional engine analysis of the difference, and the professional opinion of a certified expert in the field of crankshafts for the 2.6 lt engine.

 

Thanks,

CALIBER 308

 

 

And theres more - LOL

 

 

 

..

Edited by xtremeboost
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  • 5 weeks later...
For a good race bottom. H beam rods, forged pistons, total seal rings, balance shaft eliminator kit, new oil pump. metal head gasket, O ring block, ARP studs and most important BALANCE everything. I purchased my valves, rods and pistons from www.manleyperformance.com you will have to send your old parts for them to get the spec if you dont know it. local drag race shops in VA with a line boar, crank balancing and other equipment are a good sign they may have what it takes to put your engine togeather. you may have to upgrade that turbo depending on your setup and tuning. I think it will run out of pressure on the topend you may have to use a bigger unit. dont use turbonetics junky units they cant take high oil pressure and will blow the oil seal smoke after a couple days driving, try a Garrett GT turbo its worth it. Edited by juneauto1
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For a good race bottom. H beam rods, forged pistons, total seal rings......

 

On the subject of blowing smoke.... I would skip the TS rings. A thin steel top ring on a good forged piston will get you better performance, run the gap to the wide side on the second ring.

 

Kevin

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H beam rods are nice, but Stock rods can be prepped (polished) and are good if they are structually sound (check with magnaflux)

 

Total Seal rings .. meh.. dont like them . Too hard to break in .. Better with Wiseco Rings (That come with the pistons).

 

Speed is a question of money.. Set yourself a budget, then decide what mods are good for you.

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  • 2 months later...
I think it may have a side benefit not mentioned that is more important than any of the rest and that its to try and prevent oil aeration not just rev up quicker.

This thread is great. I knife edged my own crank then had it balanced. I think it cost in the neighbor hood of $126.

I would do it all over except I would most likely pay someone else to do the knife-ing.

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10088/rebuild_march0004.JPG

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