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40 miles on NEW motor, I think I have a rod knocking


jwrape
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smokeing don't get all alarm'd about a little smoke,, a cold engine or one just put togather can have excess oil lube spray or many other thigs inside it that may smoke but it some times takes a few minutes of runing for the manifolds , exh and turbo toget hot enought to make it burn,, old coolant in the exh can smoke after a while and not at first start up,, don't be too concern'd over this unless it lasts for a while by that i mean a few days or gets worse the longer the engine is ran

the oil i'l asume is fime sence you just had the pan off redoing the brgs,,

now befor you do anything else unplug the sec inj, this will conferm that the proper inj clip is in the right location , use a new spark plug as sugest'd , ohm the plug wire on the nonfireing spark plug,,aprox 4k ohms per ft on oem wires is fine so number #4 would be aprox 12k ohms or above 5k and below 15k , are you useing "r" plugs like BPR6es or just BP* es , the R is for resistor plugs

not exactly need'd but may be all you can find ,,the use of very low resistance plug wires make the use a resistor plugs a must

 

low resistance can cause early coil fire,, befor max voltage can be built up , resistance wires and resistor plugs are use'd to cause the coil to delay fireing untill optimal voltage is built up with in the coil windings , the diff here is huge what will ignite the fuel better 8k volts or 100k volts , it is all control'd by the wire and plug gap + compession and charge time

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smokeing don't get all alarm'd about a little smoke,, a cold engine or one just put togather can have excess oil lube spray or many other thigs inside it that may smoke but it some times takes a few minutes of runing for the manifolds , exh and turbo toget hot enought to make it burn,, old coolant in the exh can smoke after a while and not at first start up,, don't be too concern'd over this unless it lasts for a while by that i mean a few days or gets worse the longer the engine is ran

the oil i'l asume is fime sence you just had the pan off redoing the brgs,,

now befor you do anything else unplug the sec inj, this will conferm that the proper inj clip is in the right location , use a new spark plug as sugest'd , ohm the plug wire on the nonfireing spark plug,,aprox 4k ohms per ft on oem wires is fine so number #4 would be aprox 12k ohms or above 5k and below 15k , are you useing "r" plugs like BPR6es or just BP* es , the R is for resistor plugs

not exactly need'd but may be all you can find ,,the use of very low resistance plug wires make the use a resistor plugs a must

 

low resistance can cause early coil fire,, befor max voltage can be built up , resistance wires and resistor plugs are use'd to cause the coil to delay fireing untill optimal voltage is built up with in the coil windings , the diff here is huge what will ignite the fuel better 8k volts or 100k volts , it is all control'd by the wire and plug gap + compession and charge time

The smoke is constant, it's not from break in. That period of burning the new off is long gone. I have driven this thing about 5 times now( even more heat cycles). The car was literally running good and smooth just had that lifter noise, then while driving at a constant speed of 75mph No smoke from new parts or even from the engine compartment. The smoke is from the tail pipe and it is steady.

Check out the video I made last night

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v177/jwr...nt=SV_A0019.flv

 

i will do the spark plug and wire tests tonight as well as the compression tests. I will know what exactly is wrong with #4 cylinder tonight. I am almost certain the rear seal is gone in the turbo. It only makes sense.

A LOT of Smoke, drop in oil pressure, using oil like crazy, it only seems reasonable.

Edited by jwrape
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The smoke is constant, it's not from break in. That period of burning the new off is long gone. I have driven this thing about 5 times now. The car was literally running good and smooth just had that lifter noise, then while driving at a constant speed of 75mph

A LOT of Smoke, drop in oil pressure, using oil like crazy, it only seems reasonable.

 

Read what you just typed !!!! I'll reserve my comment until other members have a chance to read and comment on this. Especially about the "Driving at a constant speed of 75 MPH" And still having that "Lifter noise".

 

CALIBER 308

Edited by Caliber308
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Well... After a long night of troubleshooting and then disassembling I have a verdict and we were all wrong.

 

It's not the turbo

It's not the oil sperator

It's not the spark plugs

It's not the Wires

It's not a blown head gasket

It's not even bad rings...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's a cracked block :eek1bluegreen:

 

Two huge cracks in the #4 cylinder. How in the he!! did that happen?

No I didn't over heat it. :character0285:

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Well... After a long night of troubleshooting and then disassembling I have a verdict and we were all wrong.

 

It's a cracked block :eek1bluegreen:

 

Two huge cracks in the #4 cylinder. How in the he!! did that happen?

No I didn't over heat it. :character0285:

 

Inside the bore? Do they run to the head bolt holes? Any metal pushing in or out? What was the piston bore again?

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Inside the bore? Do they run to the head bolt holes? Any metal pushing in or out? What was the piston bore again?

 

Yes

Do you mean atop of the block? The cracks are say at the tips of this (V) for crappy reference

We didn't see

.040 ( wiseco's )

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Motor wasn't cracked when I installed the pistons. I looked down the bores of each cylinder when installing to make sure it was clean. Also the car ran fine for those 50 miles. I don't know why it cracked. Just have no clue... It's a fluke
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Some cracks you won't see. even more so when bored and honed - one thing is that when boring you hear the cutter hitting the cracks. kind of interupted cut- not all the time, just most of the time- good machinist wuill catch that.

 

Next time insist that it get "wet" magnafluxed- that puts the burden on the shop.

 

where are the crack's. you sure a piston pin didn't come loose and score the wall?

 

pushing water in the oil? or oil in water?

 

Dad

Edited by Dad
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Some cracks you won't see. even more so when bored and honed - one thing is that when boring you hear the cutter hitting the cracks. kind of interupted cut- not all the time, just most of the time- good machinist wuill catch that.

 

Next time insist that it get "wet" magnafluxed- that puts the burden on the shop.

 

where are the crack's. you sure a piston pin didn't come loose and score the wall?

 

pushing water in the oil? or oil in water?

 

Dad

 

To describe where the cracks are you would look down the top of the block front to back as if the head was missing. Then looking in the #4 cylinder the cracks are at 11 and 2 o'clock. Not near the wrist pin or anything esle. It is completely random.

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I bet it was there just a bit smaller- that may be why you had a knock near the rear of the head... piston slap perhaps? getting worse untill it finally breaks bad.

 

Just a theory

 

 

Let the shop know that it's broken, mayybe they will help you out.

 

Dad

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I bet it was there just a bit smaller- that may be why you had a knock near the rear of the head... piston slap perhaps? getting worse untill it finally breaks bad.

 

Just a theory

 

 

Let the shop know that it's broken, mayybe they will help you out.

 

Dad

Yea, I will mention it to them and see if they will do my new work for free or discounted.

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