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TBPRO Cant get to idle...drive etc


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i'l try and make this as simple as posible,,, the caravan ign modual is the igniter ,,it and the pick up is all thats need'd to make spark,,, you run two wires,, one to the posi+ side of the coil and one to the neg - side,,

so you have a power wire and dist +wire on the posi terminal,,on the neg terminal you will most likely have one wire from dist,,one wire to ecu (shield'd ) and one wire to the tach

 

this is all that you need to make the car run,, if and when you find your problem then you can try to reinstall the MSD , personaly i've been runing for 3 yrs with out an MSD

 

with TBI you run the vac advance unit same as befor for MPI you run boost only pressure to the vac adv unit to enable the timeing retard funtion

 

turbo timer,,just leave it till last only do mods one at a time and only after the car is runing 110 %

 

that also means backing up to near stock and then going back with mods to better able troubleshooting if you need to do that

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Shelby...WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN....I started the car up...it goes through the warmup...revs great...farging runs now........BUT.........i need to get some sheilded wire..because my reading are off and it stil seems to be missing and stuff...but the other problem is gone....its actually drivable.....I need to double check my wiring though....I'm not going to drive it until its right though...holy crap....wt........
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Its running really rich...I've tried adjusting settings but it doesn't really change....where can I get shielded wire? I called all the local auto parts stores and they acted like I was crazy...My duty cycle jumps from like 2 to 27 and my rpms jump from 600 to 4400 at idle..so my reading are def. off....thanks guys.

 

Braden

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You may not need any, like I was saying, I found my noise problem by just moving the ignition adapter wire over 3 inches and wire tying it there, that got rid of the noise, but I was watching the gauges on the laptop while I moved it around, the RPMs would actually spike, but the engine wasn't actually reving up at all , it just just showed up on the gauge in MegaTune, just a thought until you can re-wire, I think the term "shielded" just refers to a wire that has a wire wrapped around it on the outside that you ground, I went through the same thing trying to find some, never followed up on it because I fixed what I had. Edited by BaltTSI
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You may not need any, like I was saying, I found my noise problem by just moving the ignition adapter wire over 3 inches and wire tying it there, that got rid of the noise, but I was watching the gauges on the laptop while I moved it around, the RPMs would actually spike, but the engine wasn't actually reving up at all , it just just showed up on the gauge in MegaTune, just a thought until you can re-wire, I think the term "shielded" just refers to a wire that has a wire wrapped around it on the outside that you ground, I went through the same thing trying to find some, never followed up on it because I fixed what I had.

 

 

You have it wired out side the distributor? Do you have the diagram....So I can be sure...I've got mine inside....one wire to + one to - ....thats it...Thanks.

 

Braden

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You have it wired out side the distributor? Do you have the diagram....So I can be sure...I've got mine inside....one wire to + one to - ....thats it...Thanks.

 

Braden

 

balt's probably not running an MSD box. you have it wired correctly.

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normaly the only wire you have to worry about efi is the tach signal going back to the ecu,, as for shield'd wire , radio shack ,,multi-strand core wire,,not solid wire core,,, stock'd for audio and cb and other uses 16-18gauge is fine,, ground at ecu end not coil end

 

interferance is most likely from the inj pulse signals,, keep the tach and ign wires as far away from them as possible

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sheilded wire

 

10 ft

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/wire-sh...1039-p-123.html

 

 

8 ft

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/wire-sh...auge-p-186.html

 

any good quality electronic store will have it in stock.

 

remember to ground only one side of the sheild. the other end is not.

Edited by importwarrior
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i'l try and make this as simple as posible,,, the caravan ign modual is the igniter ,,it and the pick up is all thats need'd to make spark,,, you run two wires,, one to the posi+ side of the coil and one to the neg - side,,

so you have a power wire and dist +wire on the posi terminal,,on the neg terminal you will most likely have one wire from dist,,one wire to ecu (shield'd ) and one wire to the tach

 

this is all that you need to make the car run,, if and when you find your problem then you can try to reinstall the MSD , personaly i've been runing for 3 yrs with out an MSD

 

Wow Shelby, I've never heard of that :lightingzapA: Why hasn't anyone ever mentioned that?

WHAT is the purpose of having a MSD/ignition box then???

 

Zack

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i have 8000 miles on my pro2r with stock ignition, never programmed, runs like a rabbit 86. i'm one of those if it ain't broke don't fix it guys. i do have the edis-on kit to install but i'm not sure i want to mess with it yet.
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Thanks guys....Ultimately You guys helped me through this and Now its just off to using megatune...and getting her dialed in...I still don't know why my car didn't like the MSD but like sly said...if it aint broke....I'm sure as hell not gonna fix it....

 

I know that the interferance is the problem though. On my VE table it jumps bins for no reason and jumps to 4200 rpms and 30% duty cycle and such..so its running really rich....Again though...Thanks Shelby for finally saying the right thing and everyone else who replied and trying to help me....I was about ready to sell it to Jimmy for 34$....I didn't want to do that.

 

Braden

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And no, I don't use an MSD, I'm using the stock ignition setup, therefore I needed the ignition adapter which you hook up to the distributor, and then from the ignition adapter to the FIP fuel controller, the wires (B&W) that go to the distributor to the adapter is the one I had to move to get rid of the noise.

 

So did you take the MSD out and go with the stock ignition? but you still have the same problem?

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I guess I'm kinda confused when people keep saying stock ignition....No....I do not have the 86 starion knock box....No I do not have msd...right now...I only have the ignition module in the distributor and a coil...thats it....It would be working fine if I didn't have the interferance....Which....if I had to put the dummy starion module back in the Dizzy and wire the new one outside to get rid of the "noise" than thats fine....Is that what you had to do Balt? or do you still have a knock box too?
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Yes our terms do get a little mixed up on here, I never touched the distributor or anything else with the ignition, the FIP IAM-1 adapter is all thats needed to adapt the stock system to run with the FIP computer, all thats been removed is the stock ECU, is an 86 different than an 89? Edited by BaltTSI
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maybe i can help here a little sence he finaly said what he has,,,

the oem quest igniter sends a when to pulse the injs signal to the ecu,, every other ign pulse,,this is the tach signal,,the ecu uses it for rpm and when to pulse the injs

the caravan mudual is for a carb'd engine and the ecu needs no inj pulse counter and yes the van uses an ecu ,,with the fip ecu you have a seting as when to fire the injs,,each pulse,, every other pulse etc , meaning the ecu will fire the inj once for every ign pulse it is set for,,1:1 or 2:1 etc

also the igniter(caravan modual) can have a poor ground or loose conection causeing a multi fire pulse,, any make or break signal will cause a trigger pulse in the modual , the modual mounting surface has to be clean and dry an dielectric grease needs to be use'd to insure heat transfer and a good connection to the ground surface

it is posible to have a bad modual but thats rare,, more likely a poor installation faulty wire or ground

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ok some thing else that can cause eretic tach signals, high voltage arcing to the neg coil terminal, cause'd by excessive resistance in the coil wires and the laying of the coil wire near the neg terminal or wire , this is indicate'd by a some times right tach and then it jumps

an erretic tach signal is always a ture indicator of an ign problem and that don't make any differance if the ecu is oem or after market ecu

most after market wireing harness's do not have enought shielding to the inj pulse wires and in no case should they be include'd in the same bundle as the ign and sensor wire bundles , keep the inj power and pulse wires in a bundle by them selves that'l lessen the chance of interferance

 

altho not always absolutely nessarry to have the tach signal wire a shield'd wire,,it never hurts to have it so.

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Shelby,

 

I worked on it today...redid all my connections and still have the same problem at the fip computer...I should have told you...My OEM tach...works and is not getting the eratic signal...Just the FIP computer.... :confused0024:

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No its not really changing rpms....

 

This is just when Megatune is open and I'm looking at the laptop...I can see it jumping....if I bring up the VE table it jumps over like 6 bins......I havn't even tried data logging yet...no point...lol.

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