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New build done - 60mm TB, rotated 90* on caravan intake :)


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Well it's finally up and running - currently in the break in period. The machine shop told me to take it very easy for 500 miles because of the moly coated rings gapped for turbo boost plus nitrous. So I've got about 150 miles so far and still tuning it. The old tune was way off, so it's basically like starting over.

 

Anywho - here are a few pics. Just thought I'd share.

 

Caravan intake manifold, water port welded shut under runner #4, adapter plate to rotate throttle body 90 degrees and taken out to 60mm.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/normal_caravan-intake.JPG

 

Total head overhaul. This is an alabama cylinder head, valve job, ported out and exhaust ports ceramic coated. Exhaust manifold port matched and ceramic coated.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/head%20intakes.JPG

 

Block has been o-ringed with .041 ss wire, wiseco 8:1 pistons, .020 over. Rotating assembly balanced to 1/2 gram.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/oringedblock.JPG

 

Some pics of everything put together. That is a 60mm throttle body, and I am running FIP TB-Pro-2. Schneider 284 hydraulic cam, flywheel lightened to 24 lbs, spec stage 3 clutch, and two stages of nitrous (1st stage 50 dry, 2nd stage 50 wet).

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/newbuild2.JPG

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/newbuild1.JPG

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/normal_intakemods1.JPG

 

 

Looking forward to knocking out another 350 easy miles... then I can start to PLAY. :D

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My concern would be the injectors. The way they are setup in stock form would allow fuel to be delivered evenly from the 2 different CC injectors. If the injectors are setup like yours the cylinders front could be getting more or less fuel then the back. Are you running the same CC injectors? if so then this will not be an issue for you.

 

Fixture

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looks great but your showing roller rockers with a slip rocker cam,, how'd you get arround the valve timeing being off when useing the roller arms

 

The cam originally installed was a schneider 284 Hydraulic cam - I have slipper rockers (stock) in there - not rollers. That 284h cam has since been removed and I have gone back to the stocker. For some reason, it was just un-tune-able (new word...?) with that schneider in there - very tough to drive around town because under 2500rpms, it just got pig rich and bogged, popped, etc. no matter how much fuel I seemed to pull out. Putting the stock cam back in has made it much easier to drive and dial in with the tune. Another couple hundred miles of breakin and then we'll start to turn up the boost, dial it in, and get to the dyno. I may put that 284 cam back in down the road, but for now it just didn't like this new setup.

 

Thanks for the comments - I am always open to ideas, suggestions, etc.

 

Tom

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Cool - I had it running pretty well with it before, but with the larger throttle body, porting jobs, etc - its just completely different now. Going back to stock to get it right for the time being seemed the easiest solution and I can tackle that again later.

 

The EGO correction... I am having a tough time with that because apparently the switchpoint is not 2.495 volts on my NGK AFX Wideband - I need to find out what it is, and I am still not having any luck finding out. Oh well, that info's out there somewhere. :)

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I had to look in the AEM's manual for the voltage vs afr table. It was a steep learning curve for the EGO settings. Without the ecm being able to target a certain a/f when idling & cruising it would run rich and load up. Then it would backfire into the intake or out the tail once when given any throttle.
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your problem runing the 284 is it causes you to be over rich,,and if you can't modify the fuel map to compensate for it you run into problems , swaping back to the stock cam lean'd the fuel out so you had better a/f mixtures

 

Thats definitely the problem - overly rich, but I can modify the fuel maps with the megatune software. It just seems like no matter how far I adjusted, it was never enough - and then when I made a wholesale change, it was too lean everywhere except on the bottom low end of the VE table and it seemed to creep all over the place with AFR's. Very strange - I was able to dial it in no problem before but now with this new setup it's just being a bugger to tune. Even with datalogging whereas I used to be able to get it dead on in about 3 datalog pulls, this just keeps me guessing because no matter what I do, it's not helping.

 

No biggie - I just want to get it running right, then down the road if I feel like jacking with the 284 again, I will. I'm sure it's just getting the right total required fuel and tweaking the VE table... it'll get there.

 

Oh - for the FIP system, tb-pro-II was about $850. Caravan intake and adaptor plate will vary because you'll need to get one from a boneyard somewhere and then have a machine shop do your modding - so not sure what that would run you.

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I had to look in the AEM's manual for the voltage vs afr table. It was a steep learning curve for the EGO settings. Without the ecm being able to target a certain a/f when idling & cruising it would run rich and load up. Then it would backfire into the intake or out the tail once when given any throttle.

 

That is exactly the issue I have been running into - very annoying popping and backfiring in traffic! :lol:

 

I did find some info on the web about the EGO switchpoint... this is what I found in a forum:

 

I run this odd ball ngk afx wb02 and megatune doesn't have it listed as an option.. in preparation for MS i went and set up an algorithm for it in megatune... went to lambdaSensors.ini and changed the parameters for WB_UNKNOWN and set that as my wb02.

 

the code needs to be:

 

#elif WB_UNKNOWN

afr = { egoADC * 0.027451 }

lambda = { afr / 14.7 }

TargetAFR = { afrtarget * 0.027451 + 9 }

TargetLambda = { TargetAFR / 14.7 }

 

i don't know if anyone cares but that would be how to integrate the crappy ngk wb02 into the option list. it is oddball because it does 0-5V but 9.0-16.0afr, where 4.07v is stoic... weird huh.

 

I'll try changing it to 4.07 and 5% control and see what that yields. :)

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What exactly was the reason for rotating the TB? What are you trying to gain?

 

One of the motivating factors was to have the IC piping basically 'staged' and ready for if/when I go MPI. The other reason was to eliminate a long length of IC piping by making it the more direct feed, and also the side benefit to that is not having the piping go near the turbo, exhaust mani, etc - keeping it completely off the hot side of the motor. My air intake temp sensor used to get heat soaked after it sat for a little while because the pipe would just soak up all that heat. In turn, that would give all kinds of funky readings to the ECU and it would be few minutes until everything settled down and my AFR's got back to normal. No more problems with that, having the AIT and piping on the cold side of the motor.

 

And yeah, just to try something different too. :D

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