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Megasquirt questions


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I am shopping for a megasquirt to control my fuel injectors with the mpi setup i'm going to be running with the magna intake. Do I need to order the box with VR sensor or hall sensor/points for ignition? Also... does anyone have a wiring diagram that will aid me with the install?
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hall sensor is flying magnet like an MSD crank pulley mount wheel.

 

if you ordered the VR (variable reluctor) i think you could make it work with the stock dist. if someone else can confirm this for me that would be good.

 

i plan on getting an MSD flying magnet/hall sensor wheel and converting my dist. to non-advancing so as to control the spark through the megasquirt.

 

i thought that with fuel only, you just connect to the coil for your rpm signal?

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VR Vs Hall is just an option if you are building it yourself you have to choose but if you order it ready made you would have to make this decision. The simplest way is to just use this distributor, it has a hall sensor in it, two actually one is crank and one is cam:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Starion-Magna-4G54-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

he has more, just ask him. He just hasn't relisted them

 

I know those using junkyard Ford parts bolt the vr sensor to the crankshaft somewhere in the front but wonder if they had a belt come off or break what could happen, I don't know what those playing with the internals of a stock distributor do I save those for a car that isn't modded and just get that Magna distributor but some are using them

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38161

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not to hyjack this therad too badly, but I have some questions too.

 

I'm lookign to build a prototype quest to prove some products, and one thign I need is an inexpensive EFI. I have an electronics degree, so the MS ssytem seems to like a perfet solution for me, and you can't beat the $$. I want it to have all the bells/histles possible, as I'll be trying to acchive a 400 RWHP streetable setup (IE idles good and fair milage when not on boost).

 

I need to get a review from those running this system, I need to know what options to look into. So far I'l looking at getting:

 

Ms-2 PCB3 ($250)

simulator ($40)

megaview II ($135)

relay board kit ($65)

IAC servo housing ($47)

IAC servo ($50?)

sensors (~$40)

__________________

$627

 

LC-1 WB sensor kit ($200)

Anlog WB gage (~$60)

_____________________

$887

 

GM wasted spark DIS (have from an SDS system)

Hall pickup (have from an SDS system)

wire harness / injectors clips (have TXL wire and clips)

 

 

Have I missed anyting here?

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Ms-2 PCB3 ($250)

simulator ($40)

megaview II ($135)

relay board kit ($65)

IAC servo housing ($47)

IAC servo ($50?)

sensors (~$40)

__________________

$627

 

LC-1 WB sensor kit ($200)

Anlog WB gage (~$60)

_____________________

$887

 

GM wasted spark DIS (have from an SDS system)

Hall pickup (have from an SDS system)

wire harness / injectors clips (have TXL wire and clips)

 

 

Have I missed anyting here?

the relay board is not needed on MSII, the idle stuff-there are two resistors you change (upgrade) if you are using a FORD idle valve or you can make a TB with a bypass air valve using a bosch bimetallic type valve like vw/audi uses that only requires 12v and opens after it's hot and doesn't need any iac circuit at all, check out the router board for COP and sequencial injection under the MSII page in the right side margin. Megaview-I suppose it's ok but it is expensive for a display only type thing-I think you can just leave the wire in and plug in your pda and do the same thing and if you can load megatune on a pda and not have to have an onboard computer that would be a better idea.
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indiana,

what ms do you have?? since my hawk fried, i ordered an ms2 to put together, and will be running the magna distributor with my msd 6al.

 

since i'll be sending the hawk to get fixed in australia, i wanted to get my car running.

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I agree with Indiana. The relay board is really just an aid to make wiring simpler. If I were to do it again I'd omit it and just put the relays inline and use a small fusebox. The MS-II should be able to control about any IAC, whether solenoid type or stepper.

 

I'd also consider the wiring harness kit from Rodney Sparks. It uses good quality wire with labels printed on each wire every 3 inches.

 

Another thing to keep in mind: The MS-II is much newer, and while the hardware is much more powerful than MS-I, the MS_II firmware has not been modified as extensively as the MSnS-Extra code(for MS-I). Until the "aftermarket" MS-II code catches up, you will still get more advanced capabilities with MS-I and extra code(the list is here:)

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/

You might consider buying both processors(the MS-I costs under $10) and then you can try both.

 

WBO2.com now sells a digital display(complete and in kit form) that can be programmed to display for any analog sensor input. The kit is around

$60. It's a very bright LED readout with big numbers.

 

Good luck with your project, I'm always excited to see anything with the word "prototype" in it!

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he soldered up the MSII kit from diyautotune, their harness (which also has the printing every few inches and very good quality wire) a simulator the two sensors and the usb adapter. The thing is about when you go to load the firmware, there are so many versions and to get your chip to "burn" your two versions must "match", it's hard to read the site they change it so much and it doesn't flow very well. there is also a new version of megatune I think all that was update in the beginning-middle of January. might be more new versions by now
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the most proven setup here on the boards is the ol d ms 2.2 extra with edis, which is what quite a few people here are running. I have one myself that I will bne fooling aorund with, that has been upgraded to a 4 bar map sensor. I'd say the biggest limitation to the ms1 boards is the crappy 12x12 maps, which dont leave for a lot of fine tuning.
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  • 2 weeks later...
dont break you head fuelinyectionpro have evrithing.sensors,wiring.computer and its already setup somebody got that sistem with magna intake with 400 hp :shock:for les than 500.00 hundred dollars
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ok, over the last few days i've gotten hands on experience with the megasquirt 2 I built. I didn't use a stimulator or the relay board, but my friend and I are trying to install it on his audi.

 

well, it's installed, but it won't get a good signal from the hall sensor for the tach input on the ms2. it is very easy to wire up on an audi 5 cyl. the only sensor he bought was the air intake temp sensor from a 93 camaro v8. the stock TPS, coolant temp, and existing mpi hooked right up. the rest is grounds and 12 volts, like I said though, we are having problems getting a tach signal, and it may have to do with his hall sensor and the fact that it's a 5 cyl.

 

besides that, i love it, there is a lot to work with in the program. we checked out a computer store and you can get a laptop that'll run the system for 50 bucks if you want.

 

 

anyway, i think i changed my mind and will probably go with the MAGNA distributor, since it's cheaper, and bolts on.

 

 

so, CaliConquestAlex: I would not get the VR pickup if you are running spark timing also. if you are only doing fuel injectors, then yeah, do the VR setup, and use the stock dizzy. 2 wire hookup is so simpo.

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once i get the magna manifold i can install the air temp sensor, water temp sensor, and injectors and clips. The things i need clarifued are the wires that are supposed to connect to the fuel pump. My system came with the fuses and relays, but I don't know what to wire for the pump. I have a walbro 255 currently installed that should be sufficient. The magna distributor send out a crank and a cam signal i guess, but I didn't really understand the directions on how to connect it to the megasquirt. Also how should i wire up the switched power? to the coil? I have relocated the battery to the back and I plan to install the megasquirt into the glovebox for protection so wiring the power and ground shouldn't be bad at all.
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THIS IS WHAT THE GUYS AT DIY TOLD ME

 

That would be a 1989 Chrysler Conquest TSI L4-2555cc 2.6L SOHC Turbo VIN N FI

Right?

 

 

 

Looks like a 4 toothed crank angle sensor (VR type) in the distributor to me—with vacuum advance. You’d want to disable the Vacuum advance to give the MegaSquirt control of timing without the vacuum advance getting in the way (just unplug the vacuum line to the distributor and cap it off). Then use a MegaSquirt PCBv3, either MS-I with MSnS-E code or MS-II, to control fuel and spark.

 

 

 

I’d recommend the MegaSquirt-II personally, and here is a page with the rest of my recommendations (and why): http://www.diyautotune.com/faq/megasquirt_what_do_I_need.htm

 

 

 

Note that the MS-II PCBv3 can be configured to read a VR sensor or an Optical/Hall sensor, I usually build them for Opto/Hall but I have one ready built for VR if you decide to go with an assembled unit. Otherwise if you are building it up from a kit you can choose during assembly to use the VR circuit.

 

 

Thanks,

Jerry Hoffmann

DIYAutoTune.com

 

These guys are great got a response in just a few hours and even sent me a diagram show the wiring for the vr sensor.

 

hopen this helps , James

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what I want to know is how does the VR compare to hall sensor? are there drawbacks to using VR over hall?

 

and I'd also like to note that that guy from DIYautotune.com was right about the vacuum advance, but you'd also have to disable the mechanical advance inside the stock dizzy also.

 

if there is no real drawback to VR, then maybe I will just use my stock dizzy instead of a junkyard aussie one. :)

 

 

caliconquestalex: for that switched power, you are going to have to figure that one out mostly on you're own with a volt meter, there is a fuel pump drive output from the MS2, but it has to be relayed, because the pump is a high current unit, and the MS2 can't handle that. you could probably use most of the stock stuff for fuel pump drive and other gauge stuff. there will also most likely be several connectors under the dash which you can unplug and poke the leads for the voltmeter in and turn the car to "run" and "start" positions. (make sure it's in neutral!)

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what I want to know is how does the VR compare to hall sensor? are there drawbacks to using VR over hall?

 

and I'd also like to note that that guy from DIYautotune.com was right about the vacuum advance, but you'd also have to disable the mechanical advance inside the stock dizzy also.

 

if there is no real drawback to VR, then maybe I will just use my stock dizzy instead of a junkyard aussie one. :)

 

 

caliconquestalex: for that switched power, you are going to have to figure that one out mostly on you're own with a volt meter, there is a fuel pump drive output from the MS2, but it has to be relayed, because the pump is a high current unit, and the MS2 can't handle that. you could probably use most of the stock stuff for fuel pump drive and other gauge stuff. there will also most likely be several connectors under the dash which you can unplug and poke the leads for the voltmeter in and turn the car to "run" and "start" positions. (make sure it's in neutral!)

 

you can use the test plug over by the air can for the fuel pump,(if needed i have a diagram for wiring the pump up). and i'm going to use the switched 12 volt for the radio power to power the relays

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love the color on your car. do you have any other pics??

 

 

Thanks, It was a major pain in the a** to paint but it turned out good. I need to have some better pics taken with a real camera but just havent had time here is a link to 26liter gallery that has a few pics. has ghost flames on hood and fenders but they dont show very well in the pics.

dont recommend using house of kolors silver very thin and transparent.

I 've got 2qts sealer, 1 gallon mixed silver, 2qts gold for flames, almost 2.5 gallons of mixed tangerine kandy and a gallon of clear.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/index.php?cat=10167

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