Professor Quest Posted April 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Project 83, I think this is what you want to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 hi, i'm a newbie here, this thread confuses me. do i need all those parts to do a BSE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted April 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 No. Those are 3 differant ways to buy the same parts. Yes. you will need all the gaskets and seals. Pick your Auto Parts store and then use THEIR numbers. Most parts guys get lost in the catalogs with so many differant parts for the 2.6. If you need help.............just ask me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted July 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2004 Bump for SMOG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 So if I were just looking at doing the timing chain I would need to get TCS068 right? What other parts would I need to complete the job? TJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 TCS068 comes with a timing cover gasket and water pump gasket. I would get a Fel-pro oil pan gasket as well. You can replace the whole gasket or just section the front part of the gasket. But.........if you do a BSE kit......there's more to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 In that case..... what would be easier? Should I do the BSE and t-chain or just the t-chain? At this point I just want the car to run but looking at the manual it seems it might be easier if the BS is not there at all. background: My car started making metal to metal "slapping" sounds. Pulled my VC last night and the T-chain is slack on the right side and tight as hell on the left side. There is obviously more slack than there should be. Not sure if it jumped a tooth or not but something is WAY off. So I know it needs the t-chain replaced. Probably stock anyway. But..... I have never done this before. Looking for help now but want to make sure I get the right parts and ALL of them. I hate waiting or having to go back to the store because I don't have what I need. I think in my case I should just wait till I rebuild the motor before I do the BSE. Tim Jones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted July 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2004 You have to remove the balance shaft chain to replace the timing chain SET. And I'll bet the the balance shaft chain is junk already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted July 25, 2004 Report Share Posted July 25, 2004 Lots of GREAT info here, but it's all over the place!! I'm new to this project myself, and looking to buy all the parts for the BSE and timing chain replace. There's an autozone nearby, and a Mits. dealer 25mins away, but are these gaskets/o-rings avail. at these other locations? I want the best stuff obviously. Are all those options you listed good reliable parts? or are some of them the ROCK hard rings we want to avoid? Perhaps seperating out the various routes by desired jobs would be a good way to re-organize, then give the different ways to do each job...for example: Timing chain ONLY: -List all parts needed. Then -give various ways to get them, and the places/part #s one should avoid. THEN -list the various hints, (like dropping pan or not). BSE & Timing chain: -List all parts needed. -purchase options (do's & don'ts) -hints BSE only -same I'll have more questions when I can read into this over again to figure it all out. Just tossing out an idea to clean up all this a wee bit. Thanks a ton for posting all this invaluable info!! -Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted July 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2004 Matt, all the parts are quality parts. No junk listed. You can avoid the dealer by ordering Fel-Pro "Conversion set" CS-8788-1 for about $39. This is a COMPLETE lower end gasket set that has the O-ring (bright orange silicone) and the right oil pump gasket and the oil pan gasket as well as a TON of other gaskets. But you will spend more money. Some guys avoid the dealer........that is a MISTAKE. I've bought enough parts for this car to know that MANY parts are cheaper at the dealer and are BETTER parts. You just have to know WHICH dealer to use. Artinist has a list on the BS forum of the dealers to use. But theses DEALER parts are cheap anyway. BTW...this is not a topic on "How to do it". That would take many pages to type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Thanks for the clarification. Seems that for this job alone, it'd be cheaper to go dealer for the gaskets. Just appeared that there's so much info on the labor aspects, an organized "how to" is warrented. Regardless, I'll take whatever help I can find Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armygreen11 Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Ok... SO... I just got an 87 (with low oil pressure) and I want to do a timing chain job and replace that pickup tube O-ring to hopefully alleviate my problem. According to reciepts I got with the car, a BSE kit was installed back in 2000. The parts listing on it doesn't call out any BSE kit, but it does have timing set 76046 (which I think is a Cloyes p/n). Since I don't know what all was installed, I'm just going to go ahead and order BEK157 (BSE kit with gears and guide) and TCS068 (timing kit with gaskets) from enginequest, and MD191432 (OP gasket), MD068388 (O-ring), and MD020232 (Pan Gasket, someone check my p/n please) from Rockville Mitsu. I'll stop at autozone and get that bearing installer, oil, filter, antifreeze, RTV, and some other un-related things. Now.... Do I need ANYTHING else? Is there anything else under that cover or the pan that I should check out, replace, clean, feel, smell, or rub lovingly? The water pump is five years old and AFAIK the oil pump is original. I also need to change my input shaft bearing (that's screaming like a banshee), change the pads all around, and free up my parking brake. Should I save these things for another weekend, or can I fit it all in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 ARMY.....IF YOUR BALANCE SHAFTS HAVE BEEN ELIMINATED YOU BETTER LOOK ELSWHERE FOR LOW OIL PRESSURE. You can pull the side cover ( drivers side) and look if a shaft is there. Low oil pressure could be oil pump, or bearings. DAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armygreen11 Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Dad: I'm leaning towards the O-ring right now as the cause of my low oil pressure, or possibly something that wasn't installed correctly when the last timing set or the BSE was put in. I'm changing the pump at the same time, so if all this doesn't fix it, that kinda narrows it down to the bearings. Professor: I meant for someone to just double check the p/n for the factory pan gasket that hasn't been listed here yet. I have total cofidence in your part numbers Professor, I just figured I'd use a factory pan gasket instead of a Fel-Pro since I was already ordering from the dealer, and I just wanted someone to make sure that that ONE part number was correct. That's why it said p/n, not p/n's. And who said anything about "time frame"? Do you mean when I was asking if I could jam all that stuff into a weekend? I've only been here a week professor. There's no way I'm trying to discount any of your info as I haven't seen anything yet that I disagree with. I think you definately know what you're tallking about. But there's no reason to try to make me sound like an a$$, which is what it sounded like you were trying to do. Cloyes may make a quality part, but it has been five years, and what I don't know is if that kit came with a new O-ring, and if it did, is it the correct material. I'm going to change the pump if the factory one is that much of a POS. Where do you get one for $140? Lowest I've seen is $189. How do you feel about the HV pumps from Mid-west turbo for $209? Worth it? Since I'm already going to have the crank gear off, and I may have the trans out as well, how much more work would it be to just drop the crank and change the main and rod bearings too? I don't have the time to get the crank turned, so could I just slap some new bearings on there and call it a day? I've never messed with a bottom end before, so this is new territory to me. If this is too far OT, could you just PM me professor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted July 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armygreen11 Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Prof - I forgive you. ;D Thanks for checking the pan part number. I'm going to email Mike at Rockville right now for a bunch of prices and availibility. I think I'll just focus on the input shaft bearing this weekend. It really sounds bad, and it's not getting better. My oil pressure, as low as it may be, isn't getting any worse. Besides, with my luck, it's GOING to take ALL weekend. I'll PM you when I'm ready to get that oil pump. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armygreen11 Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 I'm not sure if I want to tackle that beast just yet. When I have the trans out, I'll pull the case off, and give things a look, but I'm not sure I'm up to the daunting task of rebuilding one yet. All those gears and keys and rings and bearings and springs... Blows my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Army this thread is good reading http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=566 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armygreen11 Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 Awesome, thanks Shelby. When I do all this, I'm going to try to remember my digital camera so I can take pics of the whole process. The FAQ section of this board is nice, but not as nice as the DSMer's www.vfaq.com . The writeups on that site are top notch, and have loads of pics to help with every step. When I had my talon, I spent many an hour just reading through different projects on there. After I take the pics, if someone with some html knowlege wants to put it all together on a page, I'll host it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armygreen11 Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 Actually, I was talkin about taking pics of the timing chain stuff. That seems like CAKE compared to the trans. Where does one go about finding one of these so-called "cheap" new transmissions? Right now I'm looking at about $200 for the rebuild kit, $100 for the press from harbor freight (that I'd have to keep at my Dad's or something) and whatever bearing splitters cost (whatever they are ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted August 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 BTW.......pics of the "timing chain stuff" are are on the second address below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T_sandman Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 Thanks you professor. The first post on page is much clearer now. I was looking at it before the edit going " ???". Now it makes more sense. speaking of bek's. Do you use any sealant or epoxy on the "plug" when you install it? or just dry? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuart69427 Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 Just a little warning fellas. I CANNOT stress enough on the TORQUE for the Balance Shaft Plug that goes on the Oil Pump. Use an actual TORQUE wrench and use the Torque spec provided in the kit (It was listed in the kit I got from Dad) Mine backed out and went through the timing cover only 100 miles after the kit was installed. > TIP: Not sure if Proffessor mentioned it, but he at least told me that the oil pump can be pulled without pulling the pan and pickup tube, but haven't tried yet. On my parts motor way back when on my 86 I couldn't get it off with the pickup still in... I didn't have to remove the whole sway bar, just remove the bolts holding the center bushings in the craddle and it hangs low enough to get the pan out. I didnt have to raise the engine/tranny to get the pan out, it came out pretty easy manueving it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted February 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2005 The first two post have been modified to cover more details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquestpa Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Quick question, when your just doing a timing chain replacement (no BSE), do you need the oil pump replacement shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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