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Pictures of The Magna installed on my Conquest


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Runs great, but my internal wastegate is useless for controlling the boost. The turbo just wants to keep spooling. (I am waiting for a SFP header with an external wastegate.) I found that my 20G turbo also spools up much sooner, I can build 5 lbs of boost below 2000 rpms and 10+lbs at 2300 rpms, having less lag makes the car a lot more fun to drive on the street.
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SWEET!!!!!

 

That is very similar to what I invisioned mine will resemble. Looks REALLY nice Darryl!!

 

Ya know you don't need to relocate the battery. I have a Pro Volt battery 1100 cold cranking amps from Summit Racing that allows you to still run a 2.5" pipe thru and have the battery right up front... see this link for battery info...

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/cgi-bin/starq...;num=1016396011

 

I like the "hi-po" look and yet it still retains a factory DSM look to it.

 

You did some real nice install work there Darryl! Not to mention Glenn's efforts!  8)

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i know you got other issues to work out now, but have you got any thoughts on shortening that pipe from turbo to intercooler?? i ask because i got the same set of pipes. nice work though, glad to see the strut brace will clear. good luck on the wastegate issue?? ill be reading very closely.
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Hey man That looks sweet!! I had to wipe my keyboard off cause i was drooling to much  :P Anyway  what is the intake from and does it bolt right on also where do i finfd those pipes?

Thanks for all the info !!!

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what size t/b did you end up with  looks like about a 70mm is it and whats it off of

darn nice job , and i see you kept the dist , what ecu are  you useing

i  have no plans on going so far with my intake system, but  your trouble with the 20g has  me worried about useing mine on my set up ,just want  to liven it up a bit , not go all out draging with it,,,  can't wait to see your  dyno chart ;)

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The intake is from Australia.

http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~kimpton/

The IC pipes from turbo to intercooler where made by CNM. I made up the IC pipe from intercooler to the throttlebody.

The throttlebody is a australian ford 65MM type.

I am using the SDS 3D fuel control only engine management system.

You should not have any boost control problems when using the 20G with the stock intake. The Magna intake flows so much more air that the turbo spools much easier making the stock wastegate impossible to control the boost.

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I am geting the same thing and i plan on using the 12a for a little bit, hope it dont spool so much i get fins in the engine and throught the hood. I think i will keep the stock guted cat ex system to maybe help it not have too most boost and over spool. Do you think the intake is worth the fuss and money? (i am geting it i think it is what do you think now that you have it installed)?
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I think the Magna is the best single performance upgrade that I have ever installed on my car. As for the 12A turbo I doubt that it will flow enough CFM to make enough horsepower to send the turbo into overboost. I am over powering the limits of the tiny internal wastegate with the 20G. Recommended wastegate port size is 40MM for up to 500HP. The stock internal wastegate port only measures about 21MM.
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:ohamena, hamena, hamena....... That setup is so sweeeeet.   I want one, but, maaan I can't cause I live in So. Cal. the Smog Inspection capital in the USA.  I guess I'm gonna have to wait until my starquest reach 30 years old which is about 15 more years. :'(

 

I'm happy for you Daryl.

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It looks great!!!

 

Good luck on the new manifold/wastegate.   Keep in mind that the SFP header is going to require longer coolant lines to the turbo and also you will have to modify your downpipe slightly.   Bill TSG has all of the details on installing that manifold if you need more info.

 

kev

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For battieries you can try a size 51 type battery available at most auto stores.  The battery measures 9"L x 5"W x 8"tall.

 

By the way, has anyone recieved their manifold yet?  I keep hearing there ready to be shipped.

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I went ahead and posted all the info I have "with permision" about the MPI install here http://www.geocities.com/chip_lee_iii/mpigp.html   Darryl had mentioned some trouble with the yahoo site, and I couldn't view the pics at the link at the begining of this string so hopefully this one will work.  Please keep me posted about your own installations, and I'll post as much as you'll allow so people like Darryl Horn don't have to reply to all 50 or 60 of us asking him specific questions.  It's simple and minimal, suggestions and critiques are welcome.
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Please go to the address below for pics of my Magna. I decided to post it on this board, hopefully the pics might give others using the Magna ideas for the installation.

 

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/tsiguy18224/lst...ics&.view=t

 

 

Nice Setup! Looks sweet dude!!!

Relocating the battery to the rear helps with te weight distribution.

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My manifold has arrived, I pulled the top end this afternoon, took two hours 'cause I'm pumped.  now I'm swapping the vavles into the new head and bolting the intake and exhaust manifolds on so I can set it in in the morning and start the ecu installation.  If anyone has any suggestions or would be willing to accept phone calls while I do the wiring I'd really appreciate it.  this will be my first time obviously so I'm a bit afeared.
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My question is with all the 3rd party EMS setups out there, what separates one from the next? I mean, some swear by SDS, it looks like this Magna setup comes with the EFI (Hawk) unit, there's the AEM race unit, et cetera. Personally, I'd like to be able to use a stand-alone system with a laptop interface to replace the stock one. Does anyone have any [glow=yellow,1,300]knowledge[/glow] they care to share on this subject? Also, does anyone have (or know how to get) the base maps and stuff from the stock ECUs? Can it be done?

 

???

Thanks - Tee

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i am presently dealing with one of my local shops trying to get a Perfect Power setup for my 'quest.  I have dealt with EMS with my turbo miata, currently running the Link Electrosystems ECU.  there are so many and the main differences seem to be the number of tuning sites, inputs/outputs, and methods of tuning.  some have a keypad (the link is this way) and some require hooking up to a laptop or other PC.  from what i've experienced with my miata, there are two types of systems:  user friendly, and not so user friendly.  the link happens to be the former.  it is a very easy to understand and easy to use setup with a cockpit mounted keypad and it's also a plug and play type of setup.  uses the factory wiring harness and ECU box, the board drops right in.  only required changing a few wires around.  i have a friend with a haltech system on his MR2 Turbo and he's had hell trying to get it tuned correctly.  he's actually flying a guy up from Jamaica next month and paying his expenses and for the dyno tuning sessions just to get it done by an experienced person.  this has kept me away from that system.  i've heard and seen nothing but praise about the Tec system.  on the miatas it consistently seems to put down more power on similar setups due to a more precise tuning program aka. more sites to tune.  haven't heard of the hawk system, but seems similar to a haltech.  there are several others out there to look at too.
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I have used the TEC 2 system and am now using the SDS system. I can`t say how well other EMS match up.

The TEC is not user friendly and requires a laptop, the software I was using required you to shut the engine off every time you made a download. It was a real pain in the a** to use and hard on the starting system. All the values in the TEC are in metric KPA instead of LBs. Centigrade instead of Fahrenheit making it all the more confusing to tune.

The SDS (Simple Digital Systems) is simple to tune in comparison to the TEC. All the values are in english, lbs, temperatures. It comes with a hand held programmer which you can make real time program changes while the engine is running.

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Perfect power system is inexpensive, and seems like a bare bones programmable fuel injection system that "should" get the job done. I was always interested, but never found anyone who was actually using it sucessfully.. didn't have the time to experiment. It'd be cool to see how it works out for you.

I did buy the UNI by perfectpower from a guy that used it on his rwd toyota gts 1.6, with good results - it allows you to change the fuel and ignition timing of stock ecu via laptop, when you add turbo, bigger injectors, etc.. it'll tune it. No bcfpr, msd btm needed

 

For my one-off multiport projects, I'm actually gonna adapt stock ecu / loom from other motors. Various reasons. Mainly I like the quality of oem controls, that many standalone systems lack. You basically only need to get the "trigger" mounted and in sync with a cam lobe, transfer the sensors, and you're off. Cost is great, but the labour could be tricky - so its not for everyone. The quality of piggyback systems today yield sweet running, fast street cars.

 

For instance, on my nissan ca18det, you only need a t25/t3 turbo, zxtt mafs and s-afc to get 330whp / high 12s. Has 370cc stock injectors, small crank angle sensor and coil on plug. 450whp is only 550cc's & a t3/4 away! Miata has a similiar system, but can use a bigger vafm - wouldn't be hard to adapt.

 

For the starion, I'll replace entire "old" electronics with 1st gen DSM... drive CAS off a caravan cam "end", and transfer all sensors. s-afc, hacked mafs (or 2g rewire), plus bigger injectors - will make solid power from 2.6. DSM has much better wiring... can datalog tune

 

Need more power & tuning, check out the $300 Greddy emanage... it's like a much more powerful s-afc, also changes timing, datalogs, optional map sensor extends beyond stock afm calibration... super value!  need old cheap laptop tho

http://mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/

I know someone that's been using one for 8months on his daily driven 1.6L rwd toyota gts hatch, runs 12.0s with t3/4 at 18psi on slicks. Everyone says it's VERY easy to use

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it's definitely hard to find a good a really good system these days.  so many choices.  the Perfect Power interests me because of the fact that their standalone system is priced very well, and the features it carries are exactly what i need so far.  the PRS-4 standalone system has a sugg. retail of $600 (not sure if US or AU$), but either way it's a good price for a full standalone system.  a local dynotuner here in GA has become an authorized dealer for them because he's worked with these systems and knows every bit of how to tune them properly and believes in their capabilities.  given, nothing is quite as good as OE as far as quality goes.  

i will be sure to let everyone know of my experiences with this system assuming everything goes as planned in the next few months.

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