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stupid question about brake booster...


Mech
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does the aluminum plate/spacer go on the inside(interior) or outside (engine bay) of the firewall? the way i have it now...seems like its sticking out too far?

 

 

http://s27.postimg.org/4olswqeyr/20140922_130106.jpg

 

 

the car has been a bare shell for months now and i cant remember.....lolol

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something seems wrong....just seems to be sticking out too far....maybe because the booster is on the other side, putting it near the side?

 

can someone take a pic of theirs and measure the distance between the back of the booster to the firewall? maybe its different from Left hand drive cars...

 

im doing mock up the v8, and the booster is causing the engine to sit further forward than i want it to...

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Oh hmm I just realized what side your on ...It does look wrong too...

Is the boost the original part?

 

yes original...

 

i think its different for RHD.....makes sense it cant stick out that far on LHD because it would hit the engine. there is even a recess/bowl/cutout in the sheet metal on the side closest to the booster, to allow it to clear

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The aluminum spacer goes on the engine side of the firewall. If you need clearance you may be able to move it inside the car. But your brake pedal would probably stick out 1" farther than the rest of the pedals. If there's enough threads on the adjuster you may be able to eliminate the spacer.
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im just wondering if i can cut the spacer in say...half. i just need to move the engine back another inch or so....but i have no interior whatsoever, so i dont know how it will affect the brakes.....i need to get everything mocked up properly, or its going to be a big headache later....as this will determine the final position of my engine and trans mounts i have to make..

 

im really thinking it sticks out further on RHD cars, as other 1uzfe swap pics i have looked at, the engine is sitting further back.

Edited by Mech
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I'm sure the fsm will show a pic of how it mounts on a lhd

 

FSM 5-43 from starquest garage

 

brake booster removal and installation......

 

just shows a diagram...unless its also in another place?

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You could cut it and still set the brakes right. Shortening of the rod the links the pedal is going to be needed . I say make a mock spacer and check fitment and then cut the aluminum.

 

there was enough adjustment in the booster rod to eliminate the spacer all together.....just have to cut then end of the rod a bit so it doesnt interfere with the arm when its adjusted all the way down..

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these spacers can be thicker or thinner do what ever you need to do , just mske sure some sort of spacer is used and that it makes full contact , is there to reinforce the thin fire wall , with out exra suport the fire wall can flex and crack , clutch masters can do the same cracking , you can use any unit that will fit for clearance issues hell you can go manual brakes but manual bakes are not as good a braking device power makes the brakes much easier to use

 

 

if you do any modifying be sure to take measurements for linkages befor you start , mits recommends having 6-7 inches of petal tralvel , aprox same as clutch petal

 

if you do have to remove booster use the largest bore master cyl you can find , the larger the m-cyl bore the less overall petal will be needed also shielk the master from heat

 

one more thing that guys over look, over size caliper pistons require more fluid and increased pressure to perform

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