importwarrior Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 it seems that after all my effort to save the head threads has come to an end.to sum up I tapped the holes the studs came loose. Then I heli coiled them and the studs came loose. taking the manifold off messed up some of the heli coils.I removed them and now have trouble trying to replace the heli coils. the only thing left is to possibly try and install 10mm studs or get a new head. not sure what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) http://www.oreillyau...N0598&ppt=C0112maybe something like that? sorry, here's metric:http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/675571/N0598.oap?ck=Search_N0598_-1_-1&pt=N0598&ppt=C0112 Edited July 29, 2014 by button Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 nice find. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Have you considered using time-serts instead of helicoils? Helicoils are just a piece of wire wound into a thread insert. They can easily unwind when removing the bolt or stud threaded into them, especially after repeated heat cycles. Timeserts are machined thread inserts very similar to helicoils but they are a machined piece and are available in various materials such as steel, carbon steel, and stainless steel, ect... They are a bit more expensive than helicoils but are a better product and can be used with locktite to secure your studs for the long haul. Hope that may help you not have to buy a new head. Cheers, BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Make sure that manifold is flat. If it's not all your repairs are worthless because it will just keep destroying threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Thanks for the info. i have read up on time-serts. they seem to be good.but i have seen a few disasters with them. maybe installed improperly. UCW - i had the manifold surfaced each time before i put it back on.i always surface when and if i can. the studs backed out from the timei bought the car i have been trying to keep them tight. this wil be the lastchance i have to fix it properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I upgraded the 2 rear studs to 10mm. I've had the most trouble with them and they are the most common to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 on my previous car i upgraded the top row and rear most lower to 10mm. used mitsu evo studs. going to try time serts this time around. hope they hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Is your exhaust fully supported, front to back? You don't want the weight of any of it hanging on the manifold. Have a flex pipe installed, or the factory style spring loaded stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) yes, zero weight on the turbo from the down pipe. I use a V band flange on them and when there is noclamp on, the 2 are still perfectly aligned.I have a flex pipe as well in the down pipe. the only thing is I run the Funk Lock motor mount. there was more vibration compared to the stock mounts. other than that. that was the only change I made. Edited July 30, 2014 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 With the funk lock motor mount, you have more vibration compared to thestock motor mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) well a follow up to this pain in the butt problem. i went and got the BIG Cert Time sert kit part number 5812.this is for threads that had all ready been heli-coied.the thread pitch is 8x1.25 out side dia is about 12mm and the very tip that sits flush is 14mm. https://www.belmetri...217_221_880_266 engineering infohttp://www.timesert....ringdataBS.html then i went out and got some high temp thread lock good to 2100 degrees RESBOND 907-TS http://store.034moto...urbo-rated.html Resbond main websitehttp://www.cotronics...readlockers.htm PDF info on ithttp://www.cotronics...r/pdf/907ts.pdf if you do decide to get this resbond make sure NOT to get the BLUE stuff.the blue is good to 500 degrees it should be red in color. hope this will resolve my problems of the studs backing out.I am letting the thread locker cure over night. i still have 1 broke stud that is counter sunk to get out. that is tomorrows task. just wanted to give a follow up as to where i am at with this. http://store.034motorsport.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/250x250/8e3c886ca7be982fe01f40a38284b5ac/T/H/THREADLOCKER2100F.JPG Edited August 9, 2014 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) use( NEW) lock washers to keep studs from turning out............or wire them Edited August 10, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 Tried them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 shot peen threads on studs and run them in with 2 jam nuts on bolt to drive them in....( interference fit...sieze the studs in head ) or buy washers with locking tabs...that's what the racers do..........even if u get a new head it will still happen...all the vibration will loosen them up...did u read the post on how I beef my head bolts up ..?? about 3 months back.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 think i missed it have a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 You don't have to stay metric... 3/8" is slightly smaller than 10mm and might be easier to source with locking hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 So Far 100 miles and the setup is still holding. keeping fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 importwarrior look back at may 30 texas quest post on 10mm studs and read post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 ok thanks will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts