88 Quest does not like to run cold...Fixed

[dukaine]

i recently purchased a 88 quest and am working on getting it running right. I have already changed the plugs and cleaned the injectors which did help some of my issues. Now when i start the car cold it barely wants to run. Missing popping etc. After the car warms up it runs pretty good and smooth. Still has a smaller stutter if u really get on it but not bad at all. So what could cause my major issues when its cold. O2 sensor maybe? I am relatively new To fuel injection cars and am trying to figure this out. Edited January 20, 2014 by dukaine

[CaliConquestAlex]

Check the vacuum advance and it sounds like an ignition timing issue. Also, put a timing light on it and verify base timing with the vacuum advance unplugged.

[dukaine]

Just did timing and i also checked to see if timing advance was working. I am not sure if it was right on because initially i didnt see the timing mark. This have a small mark. It doesnt seem to run any different warm although the issue is when it is cold. I wont know on that issue till tomarrow. Also i noticed if i rev it a bit at 4000 rpms it sputters. Maybe its a fuel issue. Or maybe i have a fuel issue among other things.

[MTQuest]

Fuel issue would more than likely cause you to have poor running conditions through out the RPM band, and would feel it sputtering at idle. If its popping is usually do to to adavanced timing. Fuel can make some of the symptoms that your running into, but the popping would meen that its burning the fuel to soon or to late, if it were to late it would be bogging down and would take a while to rev it up. Consdering its cold, its going to run more rich than lean, and as you say when you bring up the rpm's it pops worse at high load, there for too much fuel would not be the case as more load requires more fuel, and it should actually run better as you increase the rpms if the fuel system is in default mode telling the computer to dump fuel to to run engine colder/safer. Sounds more like a timing advance problem to me. You kind of answered your own question when you said you can't find the timing mark with the light when you first start it. All vehicles advance the timing some how, either with vacume or electic based on temperature or load.

[dukaine]

Fuel issue would more than likely cause you to have poor running conditions through out the RPM band, and would feel it sputtering at idle. If its popping is usually do to to adavanced timing. Fuel can make some of the symptoms that your running into, but the popping would meen that its burning the fuel to soon or to late, if it were to late it would be bogging down and would take a while to rev it up. Consdering its cold, its going to run more rich than lean, and as you say when you bring up the rpm's it pops worse at high load, there for too much fuel would not be the case as more load requires more fuel, and it should actually run better as you increase the rpms if the fuel system is in default mode telling the computer to dump fuel to to run engine colder/safer. Sounds more like a timing advance problem to me. You kind of answered your own question when you said you can't find the timing mark with the light when you first start it. All vehicles advance the timing some how, either with vacume or electic based on temperature or load.

 

I meant by couldnt find the timing mark it was a small timming mark and didnt see it at first im used to v8 timing marks where there is no way u can miss it on the damper

I set it to 10 degree advance

Edited December 20, 2013 by dukaine

[dukaine]

Its more of a sputter miss when cold like its running on 2 cylinders.

 

Its not popping at high rpms when warms its a bit doggy but smooth up to 4k rpm then its starts sputtering over 4k but when cold it runs completely bad at all rpms. It barely even whats to build rpms like its running on 2 cyl

Edited December 20, 2013 by dukaine

[JohnnyWadd]

Coolant temp sensor needs to be check. TPS reset do it again.

[dukaine]

did a little reading and the coolant temp sensor may be it ill test it tomarrow and reset tps

 

 

Did more reading on it and since its a auto car it has the 2 pin temp sensor that is known for issues

Edited December 20, 2013 by dukaine

[TSIboostman]

Mine does this exact same crap but runs good when warm and has a perfect idle when warm as well. It starts then has a low rough idle and then it comes up and runs rough. Spitting and sputtering and then when it warms up it is fine. I think I will try to block off the EGR and see if it still does it. I am thinking the EGR if stuck open will allow exhaust gases back into the chamber and not combust as well acting like a large vacuum leak of course it could be my big ole exhaust manifold leak which I am sure may have an affect as well.

[dukaine]

let me know how that works for you

 

I do still have the egr on mine also

Edited December 20, 2013 by dukaine

[Starfighterpilot]

You Have a Bad Coolant Temperature Sensor ( CTS ) as was stated above or it's electrical male and female metal electrical terminals are corroded or broken. See FSM page 14-64 for how to test the CTS.

 

This may be off the wall but, ya might also want to clean the ISC nose switch button and the throttle body protuberance which the nose switch contacts.

 

What error codes is your Lady giving you. See the FAQ's & FSM 14 - 49 thru 14 - 50 for how to check & read the error codes.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[dukaine]

I do have a question the sensor i would need would be the coolant temperature sensor and not the coolant temp sender correct? or could the problem also be the sender. I am not sure about the sender but i do know it runs fine after the gauge begins to read

[TexasQuest]

Yes you need the Coolant Temp Sensor, the one that's screws into the intake manifold. The temp gauge switch in the t-stat housing has nothing to do with the idle or engine performance, just for the gauge in your instrument cluster.

[dukaine]

ok thx

[TexasQuest]

Welcome, no problem.

[dukaine]

Ok The problem is not fixed. I just replaced the head on the car i had antifreeze in 3 of the 4 cylinders and put on a new temp sensor and still when its cold its running really rich. Im wondering if maybe the o2 sensor is bad and i havnt tested the tps yet . Anyone else got any ideas

[jszucs]

Have you replaced the injector clips? Reason I ask is the 4K RPM mark your talking about is where the 2nd injector kicks in.

[Starfighterpilot]

Have you replaced the injector clips? Reason I ask is the 4K RPM mark your talking about is where the 2nd injector kicks in.

 

Actually, I think that the secondary injector kicks in well before 4K RPM's. Anywhere between 2200 (or below) to 3100 RPMs, depending upon boost pressure. Disconnect the secondary injector clip and take your Lady out for a drive.

 

But you may be right that the secondary or even both injector clips may be loose or corroded and may be the 4K RPM problem.

 

dukaine:

 

What are your spark plug gaps set at?

 

What spark plugs are you using? You should be using the NGK 7031 (BUR7EA) spark plugs.

 

What do the spark plugs look like? See this link so you can analize their condition. http://www.gnttype.o...gine/plugs.html

 

You may be using the wrong heat range or type of spark plug for the Starquest G54B T engine. Or you may be experiencing spark blow out cuz the gap is too great for your engine's cylinder's compression and turbo boost pressure.

 

Try taking the plug gap down to .036" and see if you still have the 4K miss. Do high boost power runs, increasing the gap by 0.001" each time until you get hard acceleration with a miss-fire. When you get the miss-fire, drop back the 0.001" to when you didn't get it. (Each engine is different and you are tuning to YOUR PARTICULAR engine).

 

LET US KNOW WHAT YOU FIND.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[dukaine]

OK update on what's going on these days. The 4k miss is gone since I cleaned the injectors what is happening now is that when its cold it runs super rich. So rich it barley runs. Its dumping fuel down the cylinders and black smoke is coming out the exhaust. Once the car begins to read on the temp gauge it immediately starts to run better and once it reaches operating temps it runs pretty good. I already changed the temp sensor and just changed the head. I put njk 7031s in it and the last set were golden brown that I took out so after its warm it is running right where it should. But when its cold is the problem. Its like its in ultra rich mode

[Starfighterpilot]

Have you done a TPS/ ISC reset yet? See this link http://www.starquest...showtopic=28069

 

Have you cleaned off the ISC button switch end with a Scotch Brite pad yet?

 

When you start your Lady's engine when she's stone cold, what idle RPM does she try to run at?

 

What Error Codes is the EFI ECU giving? See this link for how to get 'em http://www.starquest...showtopic=28043 and FSM Page 14-49 & 50.

 

Then we can start working from there rather than making suggestions helter skelter.

 

Let us know what error codes you get!

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[dukaine]

I had the injectors hooked up backwards tested it today and now it runs good doh!

[dpstarion88]

I know this is over a year old now...but just want to say I too had the same problem for quite a while now. I finally got around to searching why the same problem of cold rough idle and running fine when slightly warmed up. Sometimes it would be idling so rich it would spit black condensation or raw fuel out the tail pipe. Good thing this car isn't my daily driver and haven't racked to many miles like this. Should have been paying attention to those injector connectors....

 

-Dave