scott87star Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Having it be multiple piston failure leans more towards detonation being the problem but you still need to pay attention to your ring gaps. I'd open them up a little over factory spec and I'd also make the 2nd ring gap larger than the top. Factory spec is the 2nd smaller but the aftermarket piston manufacturers all recommend a larger 2nd ring gap in an engine seeing a lot of boost pressure. It is supposed to help ring seal. A forged piston absorbs more heat, a cast and/or hypereutectic absorbs less heat but pushes it to the ring package so bigger gaps are in order. Or just call total seal and get their advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 FYI the pistons are Federal Mogul part number 12220P. Here's some info I found on them: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-12220p-75mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Ooooo, flat tops. Cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Ooooo, flat tops. Cool. Are they flat tops? http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s415/apordes/IMG_1771_zpsafb14e31.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 The description is wrong. It says flat tops, but then below it says there's a dish, They are definitely NOT flat tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 That is the sealed power stock replacement piston, should be cast not hypereutectic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Yes, these are cast aluminum. I've purchased a set of CLEVITE / PERFECT CIRCLE Part # 2242375 pistons as replacements from Rockauto. Has anyone used these before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 (edited) Well...one of my buddies convinced me to go for the forged pistons. So I just ordered a set of STD Wiseco's from Dad. I took a good look at the block last night and it doesn't appear to have any cracks between ports or damage requiring a hone. Edited March 11, 2014 by CaliConquestAlex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Good deal,,,,,,,,,, you wont be disappointed.... you buy a 5$ pair of shoes,,,,, you get 5$ shoes my friend.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Rebuild is coming along great: http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s415/apordes/252D5AA5-1F4F-4DA4-ACBB-538AEBE31DC9_zpsnhi2xwlx.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) I have a question, where can I buy a new dowel pin for the camshaft? I can't get the one out of my old camshaft and I am using a 292 mechanical cam with the m28 head. Edited March 20, 2014 by CaliConquestAlex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 The stock dowel pin is just a roll pin. Take your cam gear or dizzy gear to the parts store and find one that fits in their dorman section. They look like this. http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/files/roll_pin_879.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Is there no mitsubishi part number for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Is there no mitsubishi part number for this? MD021219 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I'll see about getting them in stock. I have been using the 6MM X20 pin, just a bit longer and I like it! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Is there no mitsubishi part number for this? You can go to mitsubishi and get their part but it wont be better than the $0.50 pin you will get at a parts store. You will just pay more for it. You use a roll pin like I posted because it will press into the gear and stay there. A solid pin that just slips in will work it's way loose when you start the engine. Remember there's a hole in the dizzy gear. A solid pin can slip forward towards that gear and not be engaged in the cam anymore. Edited March 20, 2014 by ucw458 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Ya, my only concern is that I have a set of assorted roll pins from autozone and one of them fits, but it can easily be pulled out. I was thinking about using a dab of permatex to help secure it, but I'd like to just find the right size pin that will be a tight fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 6mm diameter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 If you don't have a 6mm and the one you have is slightly loose then stick a screwdriver into the slot in the middle of the pin and hammer it in. That will expand the center of the pin slightly and make it grab the cam gear tighter but still be loose enough to let the pin slip out of the dizzy gear and cam when you want to take it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) ^that would be my solution as well, expand the pin, no harm done. AND use sealant. Edited March 21, 2014 by scott87star Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Here's an update. Head installed and torqued down. I'm putting on the exhaust side now. Compression test yielded same numbers across the board. I installed new e3.46 spark plugs and cranked it over a bit to circulate oil and the cranking noise sounds normal. When the engine was broken, the engine definitely sounded like it was loosing compression on on cylinder when cranking over. I'm going to try to get my manual steering box installed before I put the intake manifold back on. I'm also going to try to run braided fuel lines back to the pump while I have good access. http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s415/apordes/7C1A71FC-FF7B-461D-8A47-360EC61AF13D_zpsw73bwgzk.jpg http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s415/apordes/5BA2512E-7B2D-4BCF-BDC9-BABE59B54665_zpsmkbpmoiu.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Looks good man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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