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Whats your water temp gauge set up?


88-cnqst-tsi
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When driving I use the stock gauge. I have logged temps on the standalone and watched the stock gauge at the same time. I know my stock gauge will read almost half @ 176 degrees (operating temp) and about 3/4 @ 195 degrees (t-stat opening temp). Since I have verified those temps I feel the stock gauge is fine for my application.
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Mine is a "mechanical" gauge. I have it plumbed to where the stock coolant temp sensor used to go. I avoided the electric gauge because I'm not so great at wiring.

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4100/4785910687_df498dd6b7_b.jpg

Edited by dmyers151
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Laptop gage in tuner studio. Plan to ether tap somewhere for a dash gage, or maybe use the AC temp switch location which I doubt would be an acurate location but would be just a waning type gage anyways.
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Something I have not seen anyone else do is install a buzzer. If the engine temp gets too high a buzzer goes off. Most of the time people don't notice a creeping temp gauge until the engine starts making noises or acts funny.

 

 

For standalone guys a general purpose output can be hooked to a buzzer.

 

For stock guys use the high temp fan switch on the radiator to activate the buzzer.

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mechanical or electric if yu have questions have the actual engine temps tested with a touchless meter

 

1/2 on the oem gauge is normaly 190-200f , so if yours is running 1./4" above 1/2 i'd deff do some testing with a touchless

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mechanical or electric if yu have questions have the actual engine temps tested with a touchless meter

 

1/2 on the oem gauge is normaly 190-200f , so if yours is running 1./4" above 1/2 i'd deff do some testing with a touchless

 

HMMMM now you got me thinking. Price has come down allot on a touchless hand held. Might just take one apart and point sensor at head and wire in car. Solves my gage / no current open sensor spot issue.

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It takes two gauges to get a proper reading,

the only information you get from the original temp guage is the where the coolant exits the engine, its not the hottest place thats in the cylinder head at the exhaust valve, but its how hot the coolant is at the thermostate

 

you need a second guage at the lower radiater hose to find the coolant temp when the coolant exits the radiater and enters the engine

 

couple of reasons for this, first it tells you if your radiater is working, second you can test if you are 'overcooling'

 

If your coolant temp is 10 to 12 degrees lower as it exits the radiater back into the engine, you are in good shape, if you are dumping 20 degree cooler temps back into the engine, you create a thermo stress/shock on the engine and if you are only getting 6 degree drop, you got a overheating problem

 

so get two matched guages, place a tube in the lower hose and place a second guage there and tune your thermostate and radiater to match the engines needs

 

I know, I get too deep, I'm sorry..............I am German

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^ No I like that allot, and it's something for me to think about. I know for sure I am over cooling as I can sometimes struggle to make 180 deg. unless you run it and shut it off and let it heat soak. Then just starting will take it from ~ 200 to 170's in a few seconds.
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which gauge do you have and did you need extra fittings

All the center gauges are AutoMeter Phantom. I think this is the water temperature one I've got:

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2674&sid=7

 

Also, I'm pretty sure you'll need this fitting:

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=68

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any temp sender has to be installed where it will see moving coolant and before the thermostat

as Bill said having another gauge sender in or near the lower rad out let will give you an idea of how well the rad is doing it's job

 

and one more thing if the gauge your using is not sensitive enough to show when the stat opens it's not

sensitive enough to be very accurate

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