Runs rough or not at all

[Rich]

I have an 88 starion with a manual transmission. A couple of months ago the starter went. After a month of sitting in the garage I caught it in gear to start it since I don't like to let a car sit for any length of time. The car started fine and ran for about a minute then shut off. I replaced the starter and the car started but ran really rough. I took it to the local Mitsubishi dealer who diagnosed it as the fuel pump. They had it for eight days and told me they were doing different diagnostic tests before they settled on the fuel pump. I had them also replace the fuel filter. I picked it up and it seemed fine. Next morning it is running rough and eventually shut off and won't start at all. I contacted the garage and they offered to take it back and look at it. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar experience? Im starting to wonder if the Mitsubishi dealer couldn't figure it out and hoped a new fuel pump would fix it. I have never had a problem with them in the past but I hate to keep blindly paying for hours of diagnostic time. I'd at least like to offer a suggestion or two.

 

Thanks. Rich

[importwarrior]

i would work on it myself and not let them do it.

you will be paying way too much for what we can offer you here for free.

[TSIboostman]

I would start with spark, distributor, throttle body injectors work through anything fuel and spark related. It is not easy to diagnosis these cars and there is a write up here on how to pull codes from it. Replace the one wire o2 if you have not they are 16 bucks from autozone for a bosch. Only things it could be a spark or fuel.

[Amonje123]

Yea dude dnt pay to have your car fixed we can help you out. Finding a no start condition is not hard at all.

You just to go down the check list. All a car needs to start is:

1. Air/fuel

2.compression

3 . spark

 

I usually i check for spark first then fuel. Let us know

 

[vbrad511]

I vote leaky injectors. Pull the spark plugs and have a look. Are they fouled? Smell like fuel? If so, check the oil. If it smells like gas CHANGE IT NOW. Gas in oil wipes out bearings...quickly.

 

And like ^^they^^ said, don't let a dealer work on your car. Most mechanics, ever dealer based, didn't know the ins and outs of these cars when they were new. The folks here have spent the last decades figuring out the problems and fixes. Get yourself some basic tools, a multi-meter, and some hand cleaner and start reading up on the site here. We'll help.

[Rich]

Thanks guys. After I thought about it some more, looked through some info and the repair manual, and did some poking around I think it is the ignition coil.

 

I also learned (for the fourth or fifth time) that the dealer isn't the place to go with these cars. For some reason I keep thinking they should understand their "stuff." Of course, I always forget that most of the guys working the shop were probably 10 years old or younger when this car was new. Nothing against them, but I'm sure they spend their time and learn about the new stuff and probably don't see much of the older cars (and certainly don't know the quirks). I just seem to forget that every couple of years.

 

I just get nervous working on things I don't really understand. I'll let you know how it turns out or if I need more help..

 

Thanks again.

[TSIboostman]

Thanks guys. After I thought about it some more, looked through some info and the repair manual, and did some poking around I think it is the ignition coil.

 

I also learned (for the fourth or fifth time) that the dealer isn't the place to go with these cars. For some reason I keep thinking they should understand their "stuff." Of course, I always forget that most of the guys working the shop were probably 10 years old or younger when this car was new. Nothing against them, but I'm sure they spend their time and learn about the new stuff and probably don't see much of the older cars (and certainly don't know the quirks). I just seem to forget that every couple of years.

 

I just get nervous working on things I don't really understand. I'll let you know how it turns out or if I need more help..

 

Thanks again.

The cars electronics are simple and clean only so many things it can be but without any diagnostic port to tell you exactly what has failed then you have to trouble shoot things yourself.

[Caliber308]

Rough Idle or Engine stalls:

 

Vacuum leaks.

Ignition system problems.

Idle speed too low.

Fuel injection system problems.

EGR system problems.

Compression too low.

 

Look in the FSM under Master Troubleshooting. It will direct you to the different sections and page numbers so you can try to diagnose the problem.

 

Have you ever considered installing a Fuel Pressure Gauge to see what your actual Fuel Pressure is at Idle and Wide Open Throttle? Just replacing one Fuel Filter, when there are five doesn't make sense.

 

Fuel Filters on a Stock Starion/Conquest:

 

One in-tank sock filter.

One inline Cone filter before the Fuel Pump.

Two screen filters at the Fuel Injectors.

One Fuel filter under the hood.

 

Do us, and yourself a favor.....Stay away from the Mitsubishi Dealer when it comes to trying to diagnose problems with your car. Most likely, a majority of the membership on SQC knows more about troubleshooting these cars than the dealer does. The Mitsubishi Dealer will charge you money just to look at your car,at a cost to you of maybe $80.00 to $90.00 a hour. We offer years of personal experiences in troubleshooting problems with these cars for.............FREE. But. seeings how you are there, and we are here. You will have to do the troubleshooting and work yourself, via our advice.

 

Bill

Edited October 23, 2013 by Caliber308

[Starfighterpilot]

Did the Mitsu dealer replace the fuel pump? If so, what fuel pump did they install? I'm almost positive that there have been no more brandy new Mitsu OEM fuel pumps available, through Mitsu, for the past couple of years.

 

First of all when the engine won't run, do you have spark at ALL of the plugs? No spark then you have an ignition problem.

 

Second: remove the OVCP from the TB intake and the wire between the coli & dizzy cap. Then roll the engine with the starter and look into the TB inlet with a flash lite and see if you have gas spraying into the TB inlet bore. If the fuel spray isn't fine (misty?) or the injector is pouring out gas - then you have a problem with the fuel system's injectors.

 

If there is no injector fuel spray - then there is a problem with the fuel delivery system. See this link http://starquest.i-x...opic.php?t=1031

 

Pull the electrical clips off of the injectors and clean the male and female ends with a jewlers file and electronic parts cleaner - does your Lady run now?

 

See this link:

http://starquest.i-x...33ef7a617445952

 

 

 

The above are some quick and dirty tests that you can easily do to isolate which system is the cause of the problem.

 

Do the above and let us know what you find. Then we can go onwards from there to determine what the root cause of the problem is.

 

BTW - DOWN LOAD THE '88 FSM AND START READING IT.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[Rich]

Sorry guys, been out of town. Finally had some time to devote to this. This appears to be the culprit. Not sure what the technical name is for this relay, but there was a short in it. Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Starfighterpilot]

That is the electrical connector to your 1988 Ignition Ignitor - 125748 is the part number for a '88.

 

If you look in the beginning of FSM Chapter 8, it shows you how to remove the electrical terminals from the plastic connector. After you remove 'em from the connector verify that the plastic connector body is not melted or cracked; inspect each of the metal terminals for broken wires.

 

Open up the red wire with electrical tape on it, and clean the joint up so the copper is brite squeeky clean; slip a section of shrink wrap over a wire piece, twist the wire ends together and solder them; then slip the shrink wrap over the solder joint and shrink it with heat from a heat gun.

 

Or the easiest thing to do, is go to the Parts Wanted Forum and post a request for a GOOD connector with about 3 inches of the wiring harness to it. Cut the wires going to the connector that is no good, and solder the replacement wiring replacement wiring into your Lady's existing wiring harness matching each wire color designator to each wire color designator.

 

You can buy a solder gun & solder, shrink wrap and heat gun from Harbor Freight relatively inexpensively.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN