importwarrior Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) what happen. sad to see her down.was it the same cylinder as the bad E3 plug? so for Megasquirt your running the trigger wheel for now.do you like it better then the other setup you ran?you change MS setups more than anyone I know. LOL Edited May 20, 2014 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 IW, I'm not 100% sure it is the same cylinder, but I think so.in the picture they are either 1234 or 4321. I like the crank trigger wheel a lot more than using the points in the distributor or the old HEI7 setup in the maroon flatty. I also like the coil packs in wasted spark a lot more than the distributor. Wait until you see my next setup hint: i.t.b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) Curious why 2/3 of your spark table is devoted to the boost range, I've always done it the other way around. Idea being using available resolution for driveability where you need some texture and leaving boost to have linear retard where it all tends to be linear anyway. Way cool car by the way. Edited May 20, 2014 by scott87star Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I already had driveablity dialed in, so i just scaled it back so I had more resolution for tuning boost.I start with about 2/3 NA, then after that is dialed in, scale it 2/3 boost and get that dialed in. In this case, it didn't really effect drivability to leave it lower res. I think because it is an automatic. Thank you for the compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Awesome! Colour is gorgeous. I have a 78 Celeste GSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Shes back in the garage for "maintenance"http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/imag0216.jpg This is why you need to boost any and all N/A engines you come in contact with:http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/imag0220.jpg Now I know the first instinct is "you went lean". That would be an incorrect assumption.AFRs were around low 12s high 11s when this happened.The root of the problem is CARBON. http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/imag0218.jpg See all the built up carbon? That's bad. Apparently carbon will stay "glowing hot" and cause a constant flame front which in turn melts the soft metals.If I would have seafoamed this engine, it may still be alive today. I kind of figured running e85 through it for a few months would have broke the carbon loose, but I guess there was too much.The head gasket was about to fail anyways http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/imag0219.jpg Let the rebuild begin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 What's the plan?Replace the piston or full rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 I still need to pull the bottom end and see how bad it is.So far, NJV head, bored .040 over, ceramic topped "stock" pistons..... so far.It will probably go non-turbo ITB/MPI. I think I'll throw in a shift kit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 i have read that that 4G52 head will fit a 2.6 G54B. narrow block?would a 4G63 bolt to the trans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Yeah, narrow block. A 4g63 will bolt up. Kind of. I already had one ready to go in, but the whole deal has to be moved about 1" forward (extended driveshaft, new motor/trans mounts), or the firewall has to get chopped up. A g54b head will go on a g52b, a g52b head will not work on a g54b because of the egr setup (i believe, all hearsay) I think I'll get the motor out and on a stand tonight to see what ALL I have to do. btw, have you seen my Samurai as of late? check out http://www.ilostmymind.com/ I'm trying to keep that up to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 http://www.ilostmymind.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wpid-wp-14121280226241.jpegOnly the whole front end has to come apart to get the engine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Get er Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 looks ready for a magnum stroker motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/1582-G52-2-0L-Head-On-A-G54B-2-6L good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 looks ready for a magnum stroker motor I was thinking a 5.2L from a 1500 or a 3.9L from a Dak.Probably not due to all the changes I'd have to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Here is the full on carnage! Avert your eyes if you are squimish.http://www.ilostmymind.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/wpid-wp-1412817482426.jpeg So off to the machinist they go.http://www.ilostmymind.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/wpid-wp-1412817466778.jpeghttp://www.ilostmymind.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/wpid-wp-14128979955301.jpegThey got the block, crank, rods, and an m28 head I plan to use. We'll see what we can make happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 What caused that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 According to page 40 of this document http://www.boosttown.com/engine/piston_damage.pdf , it appears that excess carbon build up is to blame. That and my heavy right foot.I think that if I would have seafoamed this engine prior to boosting it, it may have survived. But it is what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 http://www.ilostmymind.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/wpid-wp-1413262483173.jpegThis is what came out of my oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 What was that part of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 The piston, from the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screemin eagle Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 If you were running pump gas that's pretty lean for a turbo car. I would say safe would be 10:8-11:3. Is that the afr you guys usually tune for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thank you for your opinion screemin eagle.But in the book "Performance Fuel Injection Systems" (hp1557) the desired AFR in boost is low twelves to mid elevens. I usually start on the richer side and then lean it out some. I try not to get into the tens if I can help it.The arrow didn't like running pig rich when it was running a distributor. I never tried when I went DIS. Also, I get 93+ octane here in Michigan.Either way, like I stated earlier in my thread, it wasn't a fuel related problem. On another note, my parts have been shipped off to FFWD Connection for some nice ceramic and sst coatings. http://www.ffwdconnection.com/coatings.htmlI am having the tops of the pistons and the face of the valves ceramic coated, and the skirts of the pistons and all the bearings SST coated.I chose to get the bearings coated because the oiling system on the astron engines is not the most reliable for spirited driving.The ceramic was chosen to prevent things like this from happening again, and keep the heat in the chamber and out of my intake.This will be the 3rd engine I will have used ceramic/sst on. The first is still in use, the second broke a crankshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 nice update!Cant wait to read that it is back together and your driving down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) http://www.ilostmymind.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/wpid-wp-14153385284653.jpegYeah!!! wooo! Coated parts!I sent my pistons/bearings/valves off to www.ffwdconnection.com to get coated. I got ceramic tops on and moly skirts on the pistons, ceramic valve faces, and moly on the main and rod bearings.Now my parts are at Shaker Racing in Granger, IN. They are assembling/machining my head, and doing the machine work on my block (.20 over block, turn the crank 10/10 and balance, check/resize rods, put new pistons on rods)I should have that back next week! yay! Edited November 7, 2014 by button 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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