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Injector won't fire


Lance_S
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After replacing the head and gasket, I have it all back together and it won't fire. I pulled the OVCP off and looked into the tb while rolling the motor over, no juice. I cut the injector clips back before the last barrel connector to make sure it wasn't the connection or the clips and run jumper leads straight to the injector. No juice. I have solid grounds at the intake. I have power to both sides of all four fuse link connections. I checked all of the fuses in the car and they are all good. The car has only sat for 3 months. I can't believe that both injectors would be seized. I have tried jumping to both injectors during roll over and neither of them will fire. I am guessing the injector leads themselves are not getting told to fire. I have hot and ground at the coil as well. The only thing I can think of is a bad ecu? But it ran fine (other than a bent valve) the day I shut it down. Any ideas, I am stumped.

 

Thanx in advance,

 

Lance

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Lance, do you have an old injector clip? if so hook it to one of your injectors and use a 9 volt batt to see if they spray..... may be check your injector resistor on the pass side inner front most fender by the head light.... check the resistance. Edited by wrngwae
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So you're either not getting power to the clips or not getting ground from the ECU. My bet is power, check to see with the key ON if you have 12V at either side of either injector clip. If not go to the ballest resistors (pass side in front of the air box) and check for power there on any lead.

 

Scott

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is your tach jumping at all? you will need tach signal to the ecu before it will fire the injectors...... did you miss a wire somwhere when you pulled the head??? it has to be somthing simple dude...
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did you miss that little ground wire that goes to the little box by the coil??? that blue wire feeds tach signal to the ecu. Edited by wrngwae
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I checked the ground. It wasn't great but I cleaned it and checked it with the meter and it's good. Still no bump at the tach when I roll it over. uggg...
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Ok, so I talked with the guy who gave me the other ecu and come to find out he remembers it was bad so I can't rule out a bad ecu. I don't have spark or fuel. The tach doesn't jump at all when I roll the motor over. I do have an extra coil here that I could swap out if you think that might be the case. There is also that small blue box under the coil, I don't have a spare one of those but am sure I could dig one up. Let me know what you think. Ignitor possibly?
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I am using the old crappy one from 87. I now have spark and fuel but it won't run. I am positive I am on the timing. I have pulled the dizzy 3 times and re-installed it. I am getting spark on 1 at TDC. My wires are in the right order and are brand new, as are the rotor and cap. The plugs look good and are tight.

 

I thought it was the MAFT. I remember when the car ran that the green light would stay on but I am not sure if the green light on the MAFT will stay on when just the ignition key is on. Either way, the red light will flicker when I turn the setting knobs which is normal but I don't have a green light. I swapped the MAFT out thinking that was the problem and put in the original one but it still won't fire. It will roll over but it won't fire....

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I am using the old crappy one from 87. I now have spark and fuel but it won't run. I am positive I am on the timing. I have pulled the dizzy 3 times and re-installed it. I am getting spark on 1 at TDC. My wires are in the right order and are brand new, as are the rotor and cap. The plugs look good and are tight.

 

I thought it was the MAFT. I remember when the car ran that the green light would stay on but I am not sure if the green light on the MAFT will stay on when just the ignition key is on. Either way, the red light will flicker when I turn the setting knobs which is normal but I don't have a green light. I swapped the MAFT out thinking that was the problem and put in the original one but it still won't fire. It will roll over but it won't fire....

I am using the old crappy one from 87. I now have spark and fuel but it won't run. I am positive I am on the timing. I have pulled the dizzy 3 times and re-installed it. I am getting spark on 1 at TDC. My wires are in the right order and are brand new, as are the rotor and cap. The plugs look good and are tight.

 

I thought it was the MAFT. I remember when the car ran that the green light would stay on but I am not sure if the green light on the MAFT will stay on when just the ignition key is on. Either way, the red light will flicker when I turn the setting knobs which is normal but I don't have a green light. I swapped the MAFT out thinking that was the problem and put in the original one but it still won't fire. It will roll over but it won't fire....

I now have spark and fuel but it won't run. The plugs look good and are tight. It will roll over but it won't fire....

 

The Spark Plugs might look good....but think about this, You have been sending a ton of fuel to them and they haven't fired. They are most likely Fuel Soaked beyond trying to dry them out..Replace them with new ones, then try to start it. But first, check your oil dipstick level. If you have been trying to start it over a period of time without success, you most likely put a lot of fuel into your crankcase. If this is the case, change out the oil at least three times to get the fuel out of it. Choose not to do it? You risk spinning a rod or main bearing by ignoring it.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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i plan on swapping the oil as soon as it fires. i will pick up some new 7031's tomorrow. I still think I am missing something but plugs are an easy fix. i need to find out if the green light on the maft is on when the ignition key is in the "on" position but not running. If my maft is shot it would explain alot but I am not sure.
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ok,,, Lance,,,,, you have fuel now,rite? and spark but no run? do you have a timing light to verify its close? its-10tdc with advance unplugged and capped...... dude,,,,,,get her running b4 the meet mang..... Edited by wrngwae
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i plan on swapping the oil as soon as it fires. i will pick up some new 7031's tomorrow. I still think I am missing something but plugs are an easy fix. i need to find out if the green light on the maft is on when the ignition key is in the "on" position but not running. If my maft is shot it would explain alot but I am not sure.

 

Green LED:

 

Off= no signal from the MAF.

Dim= Idle, Part throttle/Cruise.

On= MID

 

Unless I go out and pull my MAF- Translator cover and turn the ignition key to the on position...I can't tell you.

 

But I did read this in the installation instructions: When the vehicle is keyed-on, the two LEDs (Green and Red) in the Translator will turn on for appox. 1 second and then go back off.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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ok,,, Lance,,,,, you have fuel now,rite? and spark but no run? do you have a timing light to verify its close? its-10tdc with advance unplugged and capped...... dude,,,,,,get her running b4 the meet mang.....

 

 

yeah, I am close. If i put a spark plug into the end of the number one plug wire and ground it and bring the motor to TDC and swing the dizzy back and forth it will fire (cool trick Perry taught me), so I am on the spark. And I have fuel, If i pull the intake pipe it will spray. So I have fuel and spark but it won't run. So either the fuel is being pulled out after a couple squirts or the spark is being pulled out. Most likely fuel. If you have a bad mas it will fire a couple times at the beginning but if it doesn't see air going past it, it will kill the fuel. I am still working it out. I just don't know if it's the ignitor or a bad mas or the maft is not working properly or something completely different. But I am on the spark and the injectors are firing.

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