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Injector won't fire


Lance_S
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He sent me the head with the rockers out of it, just the head, springs, and retainers. I installed the rocker assembly. I will know more when I get it together tomorrow and have had time to take all the measurements.

 

So. With the new Clearwater cylinder head you did not get Cam towers with it? Or is it that you used another set of towers instead of the ones that came with the new cylinder head?.The Cam towers are matched to the cylinder head (and numbered), it is not a "mix and match" installation. When I did my rebuild, a novice was helping me with the Cylinder head. He started to install the old bearing caps out of my stock JV head with the rocker assembly. Caught him after he had installed two of them, Yea, I was off having a beer.....Well, I explained to him that he had to install the new ones that came with the Marnal in a certain order. Lesson learned for him and me. For me it was" Don't walk away to have a beer when letting someone else work on your cylinder head" For him it was"Don't install old cam towers in a new cylinder head, and make sure that the new ones are installed in the correct order" ;) Glad you got it figured out Lance :)

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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yeah, the cam towers are that are on it are the ones that came with the head. For whatever reason, with the new valves, whether they were cut a hair deeper, I am not sure. Either way, the rocker assembly that came with the head wouldn't all the valves to completely close. So I put a rocker assembly on the head off my old head just to see if it would make a difference and it did. The assembly off my old head actually allowed the valves to close all the way. I then swapped the old cam towers/caps from the one that came with the head that is on the motor with the rockers from the old head. That allowed me to keep the original towers/caps with the rockers that, for whatever reason, allowed the valves to close completely.

 

Either the wear pads that lay on the cam are a little more worn allowing more lift on the rocker arm giving me the clearance I need or the inside of the rocker where the lifter rests is a hair deeper allowing the lifter to go a bit deeper into the housing giving me more space. Either way, if works. I did a few quick measurements to see what the difference was but there wasn't anything obvious. The lifter cup looks the same on both, the cam towers are the same height and the pads look really close. I could have spent the day measuring but after working on this for multiple hours I just needed to get the car back on the road.

 

I now have good compression on all four. It's time to finish putting it back together and get it on the road. By tonight, I should be there.

 

Thanks,

 

L

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Thanks Tim,

 

Fired right up. I ran it for about 15 minutes. Set the timing, checked for leaks, turned the boost down to 7 and went for a drive. She ran flawlessly. I made sure it got up to good running temp which wasn't hard to do today as it was 80 degrees. I have preplace or rebuilt much of the car over the winter with new mounts everywhere, rebuilt axles, half shafts, driveshaft, clutch, PP, friction disk, senders, etc. It's amazingly smooth, at least the chassis. I still have a bit of shifter buzz between 3500 and 4500 but it may just be a symptom of getting rid of the balance shafts on a stock lower end.

 

Either way, she is running great. Lifters are silent now that they are pumped up. I swapped the oil and filter before I took it for a ride, great pressure, everything looks good. I will let it sit overnight and re torque the head nuts in the morning and then start turning the boost back up. It's all good so far. Thanks for all the support.

 

Lance

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