ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 I have a dizzy out of a 91 galant 2.0 sohc. It's the same dizzy that's in the MM and D50. I have 2 quick questions. 1. Does anyone know how to set #1 TDC on this dizzy? 2. I need the pinouts for it. It has 4 wires, red, black, white, yellow. I'm assuming red and black are power and ground. And yellow and white are cam/crank signals. Which one is which? I've been searching for awhile now and can't seem to find this info. It's the last part to wire up for my MPI conversion. Any help would be apreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 1. to set the TDC, you are going to have to figure out the current trigger angle. If you are going MPI, you will be able to do this with you EMS. 2.You are going to need to get a schmatic for a 91 Galant. The question that I have is, why this dist? Is it a Hall effect dist? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 the dist has the factory alignment marks,, you just need to know where #1 is wire'd on the cap or if capless , just align the oem marks,,the soft ware takes care of the rest , once you have the engine cranking you manual adjust the timeing to match the actual timeing mark to the desire'd timeing in the soft ware program by rotateing the dist untill both numbers match only the ign system needs to be connect'd when doing this always disable the injs when adjusting the ign timeing for the first time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Those replies don't really answer my question. There is a procedure for installing this dizzy just as there is one for a stock SQ dizzy. I just need to know where the #1 TDC allignment mark is so I can set it to that. With the popularity of MM and D50s on this site I was hoping someone had a FSM for those vehicles and could look up this info easily. To answer your question, This dizzy has cam and crank signals. It will be used for my sequential injection setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisviper Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 1 - If I remember correctly I set it like a starion distributor , set engine to tdc , line up notch on distributor housing with mark on distributor gear and install distributor. I think we had a spare distributor cap with a hole in it to check the rotor phasing with a timing light, then tweeked the offset in the calibration. Bottom line, if you install the housing like it would be stock, the rotor phasing should be ok, because that's were we put it at, and it seems to work fine. 2 - Wire colors, Red = switched 12 volts , just tie into ecu power relay . Black = engine ground . White is the cam sensor signal . Yellow is the crank angle signal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 sorry but your question was answer'd ,, you did not give enought details for any ne to give a detail'd description of how to install the dist,, does the dist have a dist cap, are you useing spark only or are you useing the crank angle sensor signal,,the tdc#1 signal is not need'd if your simply useing the adv system of your soft wear take for example if the dist is out of a frt whl drv such as a magna,,then the #1 tdc will be 180 degrees out from where a rear whl drv dist sets,, to use a magna and keep the plug wire for #1 in the normal lace, all you do is align the dist 180 from oem tdc , in the real world it makes no diff where you align number 1 as long as the dist is install'd to match the softwares timeing numbers look at the dist houseing and gear drive,,does it have alignment marks if it does you do just as you did with the oem quest dist,,align marks and install dist http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10009/Dec17-01.jpg the above pic is dist seting at TDC ( 180 degrees from oem magna position ), the next pic shows same dist adjust'd to 10 BTDC http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10009/aussie%20dist%20install.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) 1 - If I remember correctly I set it like a starion distributor , set engine to tdc , line up notch on distributor housing with mark on distributor gear and install distributor. I think we had a spare distributor cap with a hole in it to check the rotor phasing with a timing light, then tweeked the offset in the calibration. Bottom line, if you install the housing like it would be stock, the rotor phasing should be ok, because that's were we put it at, and it seems to work fine. 2 - Wire colors, Red = switched 12 volts , just tie into ecu power relay . Black = engine ground . White is the cam sensor signal . Yellow is the crank angle signal. Huh, So I'm not supposed to use the 5 volt feed from the hall wires? I ran one spare wire in my harness that terminates near the dizzy. I can use that one for a 12v feed. sorry but your question was answer'd ,, you did not give enought details for any ne to give a detail'd description of how to install the dist,, I beg to differ. I did give enough information. If you had looked up the dizzy I mentioned you would know it's totally different than the ones you are talking about. It does matter where #1 is on this dizzy. Set it wrong and the ecu gets a wrong cam/crank timing signal. This is the dizzy I'm using. This is going on an AEM ecu for sequential injection not a batch fire MS system. http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/DSC03817.jpg This is the AEM SR20det trigger disk that fits in that dizzy to make it compatable with the AEM ecu. http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/35-8760.jpg Edited October 12, 2011 by ucw458 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Chris, I looked at the wiring diagram again and the shielded cables for the cam/crank sensors carry 12v from the relay not the 5v vcc feed. So I can tap into them for my 12v and leave my spare wire alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisviper Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Huh, So I'm not supposed to use the 5 volt feed from the hall wires? I ran one spare wire in my harness that terminates near the dizzy. I can use that one for a 12v feed. Nope , needs 12 volts , we learned the hard way, also, Mitsubishi wired ground to engine/chassis ground, not sensor ground for some reason. You could try sensor ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Nope , needs 12 volts , we learned the hard way, also, Mitsubishi wired ground to engine/chassis ground, not sensor ground for some reason. You could try sensor ground. Acording to the diagram the white wire goes straight to the batt neg feed. The cam/crank wires don't have a sensor ground so I should be all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 not trying to get smart but why didn't you post pic of the dist to start with, any way it don't matter the single outter slot is the tdc#1and show us a pic of the dist houseing and gear alignment marks c/p This is the dizzy I'm using. This is going on an AEM ecu for sequential injection not a batch fire MS system. must be some hella big injs to do a single pulse opening per cyl fireing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Thanks for your help chris. I'll get this all wired up and set. Then as soon as I can get the MAP sensor and the base tune this car is ready to fire up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) not trying to get smart but why didn't you post pic of the dist to start with, any way it don't matter the single outter slot is the tdc#1and show us a pic of the dist houseing and gear alignment marks c/p This is the dizzy I'm using. This is going on an AEM ecu for sequential injection not a batch fire MS system. must be some hella big injs to do a single pulse opening per cyl fireing No offence intended but I didn't post a pic because those with the correct information would know what dizzy I was talking about. But I do thank you for the effort. I have 750cc injectors in it now but the size doesn't matter. Many cars have sequential injection. My wife's 94 ford escort 1.9 has sequential injection and those are not big injectors. Edited October 12, 2011 by ucw458 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 No offence intended but I didn't post a pic because those with the correct information would know what dizzy I was talking about. But I do thank you for the effort. I have 750cc injectors in it now but the size doesn't matter. Many cars have sequential injection. My wife's 94 ford escort 1.9 has sequential injection and those are not big injectors. your wifes car in likely to be turbo charge'd and diff yr D50's use several diff dizzys , but they all install exactly the same for TDC#1any way best of luck to you let us know how it goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 the magna had to have 12 volts for the TDC crank sensor but a 5 volt referance for the ign pulse trigger to fire the cyls , thats where the resistor solder'd across the terminals came into play fireing the injs, insequential or in pairs is no big thing to change if it becomes nessarry,,that what so many guys doing this find hard to do , all it takes is a couple software changes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Did you ever hook that dizzy up with the 4/1 wheel? Just curious what you used for a trigger angle. I set mine at 58 to get the light to match ECU settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I used the 24-1 wheel and I did the same thing. Set the rotor up for #1 tdc and correct phasing then synced it to 10 deg in the ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I am using the 24/1 wheel from Yoshifab now. I was just curious what trigger angle you ended up with.I found out the hard way if you're one tooth off on the distributor gear it's 60 degrees difference in trigger angle lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Well I guessed at it based on installation instructions I found online. But I ended up with rotor phasing problems. What I've done now is use the cap to mark the center of #1 on the dizzy housing. Then I set the engine to 10 deg BTDC. I alligned the rotor to be on the #1 mark but on the far left side of the metal tab at the end of the rotor. Since the rotor turns clockwise the rotor will go from being lined up on the far left to the middle and far right when the timing is advanced. At least that's the theory. Now I need to adjust the ecu till the timing reads 10 deg BTDC on my timing light and I shouldn't have any rotor phasing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Why not just use the DSM 1G CAS setting in the cam/crank sensor wizard in AEM? Also you set timing in AEM to 10btdc, then turn the distributor to make the mark appear at 10btdc on the timing cover? And what's all this talk about injectors being too big and what not? Hogwash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 you need to move the dist to match the programs timeing not viersa this is not near as hard as it may sound once you have ign spark,, remove the spark plugs, ground the coil packs,, and use a timeing light to see where the ign timeing is,, of course disable the inj durring this time , crank the engine while watching the flash pointthe enine does not have to be runing to see ign timeing marks,,altho a slight bit of adjusting may be need'd once it's actualy runing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 too big i'd say their too small, he want s to use sequential inj ,,thats a single inj pulse per cycle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisviper Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Why not just use the DSM 1G CAS setting in the cam/crank sensor wizard in AEM? Also you set timing in AEM to 10btdc, then turn the distributor to make the mark appear at 10btdc on the timing cover? And what's all this talk about injectors being too big and what not? Hogwash. The AEM works better with the 24-1 trigger , starts quicker and that is the native trigger that the ecu was designed for. Also, this engine is not only using the distributor to trigger the ignition but is also using it to direct the spark via a distributor cap and rotor. The rotor phasing is mechanically set and cannot be adjusted through the ecu. In other words the rotor needs to be positioned so that the spark is happening somewhere in the mechanical range of the rotor tip relative to the lug in the distributor cap through the ignition timing range that is being used. AEM has an ignition sync value that is used match measured timing to indicated (through software) timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisviper Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 you need to move the dist to match the programs timeing not viersa this is not near as hard as it may sound once you have ign spark,, remove the spark plugs, ground the coil packs,, and use a timeing light to see where the ign timeing is,, of course disable the inj durring this time , crank the engine while watching the flash pointthe enine does not have to be runing to see ign timeing marks,,altho a slight bit of adjusting may be need'd once it's actualy runing Not with the AEM ems , you need to set distributor position for optimum rotor phasing , then sync timing through AEM software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I got it all together and running. It's ready for another dyno run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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