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Water in head again!


starion1991
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Looks like no matter what I do this antifreeze keeps coming back to the head. Replaced the intake manafold gasket and the whole intake manafold due to a leak. And I also replaced the throttle body gasket between the intake manifold. But this coolant keeps appearing and pooling in the head. The oil is slightly milky but you won't notice it unless you rip the valve cover. Any thought or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

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You sure its coolant or just bubbles? Its possible for a head to crack on the top but I've never seen that personally.

 

Oil won't be clear until it has a little time to settle.

 

If you drain your oil from the pan into a container you can see through, the water will be in the bottom because oil floats. Its easier to drain the oil from the pan then just pour it right back in than to take the valve cover off. If you can't find a container you can see through, pour it back in slowly and it will be there in the bottom as the last of the oil pours out.

 

or just pour it into a second container and watch to see if any coolant is in the bottom.

 

You could have a coolant leak from the timing cover to the block in the front too. The gaskets require a film of sealant on them around that passage.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM003350.JPG

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Pressure test your cooling system with valve cover off... look for cracks under your cam... is there any oil in your radiator?

 

Dad

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Yes, under the cam is very thin and I've seen it cracked twice that I can recall. Once was when I lost a lash cap and the cam lobe came around and smacked it on the head valley. The other was a hairline crack only seen when warm. I wouldn't try to save that head if you find a crack. You can keep it around for a time when heads are more expensive and harder to find, but right now, that isn't the case.
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  • 1 month later...

Bringing this back from the dead.

 

Well replaced the intake mani gasket and tbi gasket again. Applied a film on em and threw em on. And I am STILL getting the water in the head.

 

Did a leak test on the cooling system and I found a leak on my radiator. Nothing on the head or cooling system.

 

I went a lil farther in and removed the spark plugs to see if the cyl walls are getting any water. And they're not. Dry as the Arizona desert! Not a single sign of water or moisture in there. Thinking of doing a leak down test on the block just in case. Gonna check out the water pump and timing cover tomorrow.. Any more ideas or ways of diagnosing this problem. This is driving me up a wall!

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Its between the timing cover and the face of the block at this gasket. There's needs to be sealant on both sides of this too. This is where it can get into the oil but not the cylinders.

 

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM003350.JPG

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  • 4 weeks later...

That's just the opening of the water jacket in the block. With the water pump off you see a cavity in the timing cover and that same passage that lines up with the block. Both sides of the gasket around that opening needs a film of sealant on it.

 

 

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM008316.JPG

 

The gasket paper might be black or blue, this is copper colored from the spray sealant and that's silicone around the opening that's orange.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/keith/IM009231.JPG

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You don't have to take the engine out. Its easier if you pull the radiator though. Put a breaker bar on your crank pulley bolt and lay it on the ground pointed towards the drivers tire and bump the starter just a split second and that will break the bolt loose. You need to drop the oil pan and the easiest way is to take off the two center sway bar bushings and let it hang down, drop the oil pan then remove the timing cover. You'll need the water pump gasket too. It will take you longer to drain the coolant and the oil and get the radiator out then it takes to drop the oil pan and pull the timing cover off. Wash your oil pan is hot soapy dish water, no solvents. Solvents won't wash off any crap laying in the pan only soapy water will. Solvents will just rinse off around then and they will remain stuck to the surfaces even if you aim right at them. Dawn works great. When you get the pan cleaned up, flip it over on a flat table and make sure its flat and the flange is all even and not bent down is so just bend it back and apply the sealant inside the bolt holes and along the ridge in the middle. Finger tighten all the bolts then maybe a quarter turn and wait an hour or so whatever it says on your sealant so it can cure then tighten further. If you don't, it will leak you'll just mash all the sealant out the crack and it will leaks around the bolt heads first. Apply the sealant the same way on the block and the pan.

 

Do the same to the timing cover for those bolts where you had to put the sealant just barely snug them down with your wrench and wait 15 min or so then turn them down some more and wait 15 more min and torque them down. I just use copper gasket spray for the other gaskets and coat both sides and after its tacky they will stick to the block. Even though they are drying after you tighten the surfaces down against the sealant it will still make a seal.

http://www.b2600turbo.com/88WB/IM003425.JPG

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