Metric-man Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 this nose is being cause'd by an air leak , two primary places that are the normal cause is the 90 degree rubber hose on the ic out and the connector at the inj houseing to OVC pipe and of course any of these cheaper couplors you buy on ebaythe hose splits and pressure causes them to open and make the noise the loss of air volume causes the ecu to over run the fuel mix and fuel cut is the result I've read over as many of killtodie's posts as I could and found he has replaced his thottle body and gaskets but no mention of the seals... those are commonly over looked and cheap if you can aquire new ones I'm betting it's his throttle shaft seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) I have hard pipes and i checked for boost leaked, i looked over all my couplings, sumerged my IC in water and looked for bubbles and retightened everytying down with tclamps the raspberrie noise went away and it started to just missfire but now i turned down the boost a bit below stock and its no longer a problem. i need to find the area where it does become a problem i used a rebuilt kit for the TB and have all new orings it came with.what is the throttle shaft seals you are refering too? Edited August 30, 2011 by Killtodie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 i'l bet you a 6 pac of cold beer it's a split connector a rubber connector i didn't say it was the ic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 I reread this whole thread and you thought about closing the spark plug gap. If you didn't do that, I would. It's free and after thinking about it, if you aren't hitting real fuel cut, and the car isn't simply running out of fuel (which would feel different, I believe) your spark plugs are gapped to high. .044" is farging huge on a turbo car. drop it to .035 at the most. Higher boost will need supporting mods. The first would be smaller gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C300 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 I read this awhile ago and didn't comment. you said in the first post "-Filled up 30/70 mix of e85, did not fuel cut but had issues running on stock injectors". My 1987 Starion ESIR with 30k on it in 1988 ran like crap with 10 percent ethinol gas. when you flipped down the drivers sun visor it stated NOT to run ethinol is these cars. I asked the Mitsu. dealer about this and they said it could void my warrenty. said something about the injectors and fuel system wasn't compatable. guess all gas is blended now. was in Canada for a few years and it ran SO much better, strait gas there. Hope this helped, C300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 I used E85 with the stock fuel system, stock and wix paper filters, no problems with rubber hoses or anything. using a higher percentage of ethanol will just lean it out a bit, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 I read this awhile ago and didn't comment. you said in the first post "-Filled up 30/70 mix of e85, did not fuel cut but had issues running on stock injectors". My 1987 Starion ESIR with 30k on it in 1988 ran like crap with 10 percent ethinol gas. when you flipped down the drivers sun visor it stated NOT to run ethinol is these cars. I asked the Mitsu. dealer about this and they said it could void my warrenty. said something about the injectors and fuel system wasn't compatable. guess all gas is blended now. was in Canada for a few years and it ran SO much better, strait gas there. Hope this helped, C300I have all my pieces of info on my sun visor, and while it has so helpful info for anyone new to turbocharged cars, I don't remember it EVER saying anything about ethanol. As a response to Andrew's last post: The issue I know of with the stock fuel system and ethanol is that if you let your car sit (let's face it, the majority fix them more than drive them) the ethanol will start corroding the rubber lines, and the injectors aren't quite big enough to provide enough fuel. Ethanol burns slower, and is a better choice for someone who wants to run big boost numbers and doesn't mind running massive injectors. But C300 is right, when I swapped from the 10% ethanol to straight up gas that a few independent stations around here sell, the car ran so much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 4, 2011 Report Share Posted September 4, 2011 well, of course on a stock system, it's set up for gasoline, and ideally, you'd want to run what they meant it to run on. But it was in the early 80's or late 70's I believe that the gub'ment stated all cars should accept a small percentage of ethanol in the fuel system, as they were now allowed to mix up to 10% E into gasoline, so they could spend less money refining it and making it higher octane. but the rubber hoses aren't a problem. I took out all my stock filters last year, and the one at the tank after the pickup tube, but before the pump was a see-through wix paper filter. It was not black with bits of the stock rubber elbow. there was gas of all types sitting in there for 20 years, then for over 1 year it had E85 sitting in it. It will take much longer to corrode than one might think. I know there were stories a while back about filling up at some stations and getting black goop on the tip of the injectors. That was determined to be diesel residue from when the alchohol disolved it after they used old diesel storage tanks for their e85 conversions. It wasn't hose matierial that some people thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 well, of course on a stock system, it's set up for gasoline, and ideally, you'd want to run what they meant it to run on. But it was in the early 80's or late 70's I believe that the gub'ment stated all cars should accept a small percentage of ethanol in the fuel system, as they were now allowed to mix up to 10% E into gasoline, so they could spend less money refining it and making it higher octane. but the rubber hoses aren't a problem. I took out all my stock filters last year, and the one at the tank after the pickup tube, but before the pump was a see-through wix paper filter. It was not black with bits of the stock rubber elbow. there was gas of all types sitting in there for 20 years, then for over 1 year it had E85 sitting in it. It will take much longer to corrode than one might think. I know there were stories a while back about filling up at some stations and getting black goop on the tip of the injectors. That was determined to be diesel residue from when the alchohol disolved it after they used old diesel storage tanks for their e85 conversions. It wasn't hose matierial that some people thought.Interesting information. I love learning. Still, letting any ethanol sit is gonna have conequences... it likes to gum up. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Many warnings about ethanol in fuel back then it you were told at the dealer to go to a station that had gasoline without alcohol in it. and to never use fuel with methanol alcohol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons8821 Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Dam almost sounds like a rod knock,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I did an oil change 2 weeks ago, no metal flakes of any sort. Would that eliminate the possibility of rod knock or bad bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 No, just because there's no metal in the pan doesn't mean the bearings are aren't bad. When there's metal in the pan that means they are destroyed and it took the other parts with it and someone waited TOO LONG to do anything about it and ignored the noise. It takes just a deformed from lack of oil small spot in one place where the rod changes direction up/down to cause a knock then it just gets worse and worse and there's no fix but to replace it. I thought you had a video up from weeks ago and I said it sounded like rod knock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Ya, I did say something about it sounds like a rod knock about six weeks ago and you are still driving a car with a possible knocking motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I looked at about a dozen youtube videos about rod knock, started my car up, revved it, listened to it. I do not have anything that sounds like rod knock. The only thing I hear are the loud tail mechanical lifters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 (edited) With the lifters you get lots of ticks all the time. With a rod knock its only when there's a load on that cylinder and they usually do not knock at idle. If you rev it up a little then pull a plug wire off, when that cylinder gets no ignition it won't have a load on it and if that's the one that is knocking, it will stop unless its really bad. Edited September 8, 2011 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I will be visiting Tye next weekend and maybe we can all look at this issues, I'm sure he is knowledgeable enough to hear this out. I don't want to start messing with things on my own right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 what is your oil pressure reading??? even off the stock gauge. idling fully warmed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 fully warmed it drops to the lower end on a hot day. on a cool day like today it sits a bit below half. i'm just over the second notch on the dipstick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 To find a rod knock, you need to rev very slowly and back off at different rpms until you find the rpm it knocks at. Usually somewhere between 2500 - 3500 rpm. It is hard to kep it knocking at first, that is why so many people don't think it is one. It won't knock at the rpm all of the time, but only if you back off the pedal there, or if you are driving and accellerating slowly to find where it knocks at.If you don't have metal in the oil, then it the problem is in it's early stages where you might be able to save the crank from being turned, but that is rare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 So decreasing the gap to .030 did not solve the issue. It made an improvement and I am able to run at stock boost but cant go over 15 or it will start to missfire again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 I want to add, that my car does NOT missfire at stock boost. It does start to missfire around 18lb, currently at 15 or so. Gaping the plugs made no real improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 KTD... do you have big enough injectors to go over 15psi? Or a fuel pump that can keep up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 I hear that there cars stock should be able to hit 19ish without mods. Injectors are stock size replacement, fuel pump looks to be walbro or some walbro knockoff. If the people who tell me that are wrong then I no longer have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Personally, I wouldn't try for more than 16psi on stock injectors. You start running out of fuel quick. That's what I've been told. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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