Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) I've installed a CX Racing true 3 Row Aluminum radiator from Ebay, and I have a Procomp 14'' cooling fan which I have mounted to the radiator. I have also installed a 180 thermostat. Last night was the first time I've driven the car anywhere since the work was completed. While driving around, it runs cool as beans. On my way home last night, around midnight, I stopped at the local late night Mighty Taco and I went thru the drive-thru. I got my food and pulled around, and ate in my car in the parking lot. While idling, my temperature crept from between 1/4 and 1/3 to a touch over 1/2. The fan was on the whole time. I'm not sure what I should do here. I've only got today and tomorrow to work on the car, then I work 3 14hr shifts at work, then I jump in the car for PF. If the fan is not keeping up here, in moist 70 degree weather, I'm not confident It'll be able to handle PF traffic, or even stop/go traffic if I encounter construction on the highway. Any ideas what I can do?? I never imagined I'd EVER have cooling problems, with a behemoth of a radiator such as this one. EDIT: I'm gonna try and figure out a way to turn the A/C fan on, as soon as the Procomp fan comes on. If anyone KNOWS how to do to that, I'm listening. The Procomp fan has a constant ground on the battery, and it is activated on +12v. The A/C fan, I think, is activated on -Ground. Edited June 25, 2011 by Coke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 how many cfm is fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Are you absolutely SURE the fan was running the entire time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 You running a thermostat? What temp? Is it 1 fan or 2? Is the fan pulling or pushing? I have ran all three fans on full time with the stock set up and a low temp thermostat and the car didn't run any cooler, as a matter of fact I had cooling issues when I did that. So I went back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.M.B Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 one fan isnt going to cut it, that cx radiator if u spent the additional $40 or $50 it would of come with the dual fan and shroud kit. that single fan is only cooling a portion of the radiator. thats what i have. plus u cant even buy 2 electric fans for under $50 including a polished shroud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 how many cfm is fan? It's supposed to be ~2000 cfm. Are you absolutely SURE the fan was running the entire time? Yes. My ammeter charges a little harder when the fan is on. You running a thermostat? What temp? Is it 1 fan or 2? Is the fan pulling or pushing? I have ran all three fans on full time with the stock set up and a low temp thermostat and the car didn't run any cooler, as a matter of fact I had cooling issues when I did that. So I went back to normal. It's a 180 thermostat. One fan. Pulling. one fan isnt going to cut it, that cx radiator if u spent the additional $40 or $50 it would of come with the dual fan and shroud kit. that single fan is only cooling a portion of the radiator. thats what i have. plus u cant even buy 2 electric fans for under $50 including a polished shroud I didn't buy the radiator, I bought it from Import Warrior, unused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 2000 cfm aint enough justin i have another smaller fan thats about 1500 cfm you can have if they both will fit is the question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 one fan isnt going to cut it, that cx radiator if u spent the additional $40 or $50 it would of come with the dual fan and shroud kit. that single fan is only cooling a portion of the radiator. thats what i have. plus u cant even buy 2 electric fans for under $50 including a polished shroudThis^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I don't think two fans will fit. :-\ 19cTurbo is running a single 14inch fan on his car...and he said it's been keeping up fine and he lives in Kingsport, TN! This sucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I don't think two fans will fit. :-\ 19cTurbo is running a single 14inch fan on his car...and he said it's been keeping up fine and he lives in Kingsport, TN! This sucks But how many CFMs does that single fan pull? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I don't think two fans will fit. :-\ 19cTurbo is running a single 14inch fan on his car...and he said it's been keeping up fine and he lives in Kingsport, TN! This sucks Stock with 3 fans going is 2700cfm..... so if your pulling 1200cfm your not running enough airflow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Stock with 3 fans going is 2700cfm..... so if your pulling 1200cfm your not running enough airflow... UCW says the stock fans are 4500cfm. Mine is rated at 2000cfm, not 1200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 UCW says the stock fans are 4500cfm. Mine is rated at 2000cfm, not 1200.Regardless not enough flow...... If you have some sheet aluminum perhaps you can atleast create a shroud and direct the flow you currently have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Y'all shooting in the dark. Watch the movie. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKYYL6BF4Tk Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 If I've done the math on this correctly your radiator SHOULD have about 325 sqare inches of cooling surface. With a 14 inch fan you're only hitting about 153 sq in of that. Your fan isn't effective enough for that much space. Either need another fan somewhere or to shroud up the one you've got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 THIS is what my infared thermometer is telling me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Water entering the water pump should be cooler than the water entering the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Get a real temperature gauge, noob. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Also are you low on fluid? If you just put the radiator in and it was full then, it may not be full now after you have ran it some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I tested the radiator wrong. I was reading the top of the endtank, where there is likely no water. The tank will have water in it, but not FILLED solid. I bypassed the heater core (it was leaking anyways and i never got to repairing it) and i installed a 160 tstat. It's running much cooler now. Hopefully it'll be enough for next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I have that same infrared thermometer. It is highly inaccurate depending on what surface you measure. Ambient light, dull dirty or shiny surfaces all affect the reading. Also the range is just above 600 deg so any exhaust part once warmed up will read error. To get the most accurate reading from that tool measure from a distance no greater than 5". Make sure the surface is clean. Also daytime sun can throw off the reading so do the test in the garage with minimal lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Lower temp stat is a band-aid. If it really runs that cool you won't get as good gas mileage. Like I said last week, get a real temp gauge instead of guessing what the stock one is at. And get a fan controller for the fan. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) Lower temp stat is a band-aid. If it really runs that cool you won't get as good gas mileage. Like I said last week, get a real temp gauge instead of guessing what the stock one is at. And get a fan controller for the fan. -Robert I have a fan controller for the fan, thank you very much. I fully realize that the T-Stat is a band-aid. All I can afford is band-aids right now. Mitsubishi's programmed temperature "of Fully Warmed Up" is 161*F. It gets there. Ulrich Wolf runs a 160* thermostat in his car. He gets 19 City, 30MPG interstate driving. Edited June 26, 2011 by Coke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 If you've got only one fan, just add another fan. You've got one pulling, now add one pushing from the other side. Get an aftermarket temp gauge, you'll get real numbers to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Get a real temperature gauge, noob. -Robert That was the point of the video. At least someone realized it. I have that same infrared thermometer. It is highly inaccurate depending on what surface you measure. Ambient light, dull dirty or shiny surfaces all affect the reading. Also the range is just above 600 deg so any exhaust part once warmed up will read error. To get the most accurate reading from that tool measure from a distance no greater than 5". Make sure the surface is clean. Also daytime sun can throw off the reading so do the test in the garage with minimal lighting. That's why I like my handy-dandy 1652 degree F contact probe. It may be slightly uncomfortable to use at times, but golly, it's accurate. I have a fan controller for the fan, thank you very much. I fully realize that the T-Stat is a band-aid. All I can afford is band-aids right now. Mitsubishi's programmed temperature "of Fully Warmed Up" is 161*F. It gets there. Ulrich Wolf runs a 160* thermostat in his car. He gets 19 City, 30MPG interstate driving. It's true. Mitsubishi's ECI strategy isn't like the 80's Ford EEC-IV that would freak out over a cooling running car. The car still comes to a reasonable temp, it just takes it longer to get there. These cars run hot as is, and I believe if you are jacking with the turbo, you should do something about the cooling system. It's designed for a car running 7:1 compression and 7-10 psi, not a car running 8:1 compression and 16-18 psi. The cooler running engine helps keep any detonation at bay, and the engine does run stronger cooler. It doesn't preclude the necessity of higher octane, but it sure helps me get by on this cat-piss 91 that we are served up here. So don't tell me it's a band-aid. As far as mine goes, it is a well thought out and executed compliment to the system, taking the rest of the variables in mind. In Coke's case, it probably IS, because he needs more airflow. Of course, I forgot the specs on his engine, too. I don't recall if it is up on compression, or what he did to the turbocharger, boost-wise. Point is, you can run a 160 stat when you have some mods. Of course, just like with the old V8's I used to build, there will come a time when you simply have to have more cooling capacity. My car's not there yet, and I don't think his is, either. If you've got only one fan, just add another fan. You've got one pulling, now add one pushing from the other side. Get an aftermarket temp gauge, you'll get real numbers to work with. I told him that, and I told him that. These cars came with THREE fans for a reason...... Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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