What would you do?

[helrazr70]

There are a couple of you who know the exact car I am speaking of--so don't say anything just yet and lets see what the "masses" think.

 

I have an opportunity to by a car that is one of the "special" colors that you don't see every day.

 

I plan to buy it because the price is decent but there are some problems with the car. I am trying to decide what to do with it when I get it.

 

Here are the issues:

 

Issue #1)No title. It has been sold a few times without a title and with just a Bill of Sale. My state and none of the surrounding states recognize cars without titles regardless of BOS. The last title state and last titled owner are most likely unknown at this point. I know a title service out of GA or AL can get a title but for a $350-$750 fee depending on difficulty. and if there is a lein or it was ever reported stolen that can present a whole new challenge.

 

Issue #2) The car has body damage. The driver rear 1/4 would be best repaired with a full 1/4 panel or skin. It is bashed between the door and wheel well and it looks like the wheel came off it one time ad pushed the 1/4 in pretty good behind the wheel well.

 

The right front fender has a large dent at the front by the sidemarker light.

 

The right front frame rail is getting "flaky" with rust and will require replacement.

 

Both rear 1/4s behind the wheels at the seams are getting flaky from rust and the same is happening in front of the wheels.

 

There are 2 nice sized dings/dents in the roof.

 

The airdam is smashed and patched but may be salvageable with a lot of work. The bumpers need some patchwork.

 

Both sides of the body have those rivet-on ding guards which leave holes in the body when removed--and there are dents behind those strips from hard impacts on the doors.

 

Issue #3) The engine overheats. It as a head that was checked by a machine shop and is "supposed" to be good, but it didn't start overheating until after the head swap--which means either the head is bad or the adjustable timing gear is not set right.

 

Issue #4) The transmission doesn't shift right It is an automatic and the trans has no OD. It just freewheels like in neutral when put in OD--probably the OD band. It also shudders shifting from 1-2 and sometimes it won't shift from 1-2 or 2-3 at all, other days it shifts fine through all gears except OD.

 

Issue #5) It won't start right now. It is most likely the fuel pump because it wasn't coming on when the key was cycled.

 

Issue #6) The car has been parked a long time. ...for the better part of 5 years and there is no telling what else is waiting to pop up on top of the other issues...

 

 

My gut feeling is to take the parts I need from it and sell it as a roller and someone else can make a drag car or something from it or pursue the title situation/rust repair/body damage.

 

The money it would take to repair the body and paint alone would surpass the amount it would take to buy an identical car in good shape of the same color. Factor in the mechanical repairs and you have a car with a lot of money in it that you still can't title anywhere or drive legally. If you take the vin from another car you have just killed off the most valuable part of the car-the paint code. The interior is salvageable but dirty with all the plastic hardparts "ricer" painted body color...yuck!

 

Anyway, is it worth it to pursue the title issue with all the mechanical issues or should I just take what I need and pass it on to someone who can either try and title it or use it as a race car?

Edited March 20, 2011 by helrazr70

[Frenchi934]

mechanical issues are cheaper to fix than body issues. If you end up repainting the car too you're really just chasing after that little tag in the engine bay that says "Color code: XXX".

 

Not worth it in my opinion, but hey...i bought a car that needed EVERYTHING done to it and have been happy with it...

[BrazilBoy]

mechanical issues are cheaper to fix than body issues. If you end up repainting the car too you're really just chasing after that little tag in the engine bay that says "Color code: XXX".

 

 

agreed..... buy the color tag and paint yours to match said tag....

[JAinsworth]

Chris,

I would take the price into consideration before I could give you an honest answer. Sounds like a parts car with all the body work that it needs. The overheating, if not driven much, could just be a poor install of the head or could be a clogged coolant system seeing as how it has sat for a while. You can expect fuel delivery issues and possibly a bad gas tank also. I know your standards for how a vehicle you own will look, and this one needs more work than it would be worth to put back on the road.

Jimmy

[Guest]

Sounds like a junker to me. Crappy body, bad engine, no title...straight to heap pile. But thats just me. So it just depends how bad you want this so called special color. Titless are not a big deal to get, lien sale, 40 days you'll have a title, cost $65 for the last one I did, American Lien services, just gotta say the vehicle has been in your possession and you have stored it for X amount of time and owed X amount of money on it.

[MainstreaM]

I'd say if it's a T80 then save it. Otherwise, it would depend on price.

[Dred_85.5_TSI]

theres maybe 3 or 4 colors that would be worth saving unless it was like an 83, 85.5, or 89 starion. other than that I'd say parts car.

[kidjc]

Chris... you got what it takes to bring it back... butt... @ what costs. U do like the challege.U just p/ud (1) that has a great start roll her up & out. Will U B happy with it money vrs, time. Uot the knowledge/finesse "explode into space!" The only thing that concerns me: title: limits ya eh? For me... I'd have to pass! J

[ucw458]

It would be easier for us to give an opinion IF you told us the color.

[BC_99]

mainelytitles.com is where I got my title issue resolved on my fiji for a couple hundred $.

 

BC_99

[JDean]

unless there was only one made in that color i would say its a parts car

[helrazr70]

It's a Y59 San Marino Yellow '88 Conquest. It belonged to StarquestJOE a few years ago and it spent an unknown amount of time parked before he got it. He won it on ebay for $465.00. He got it running and then traded it for a 3000GT before he drove it much. The new owner spent the first year he had it chasing mechanical/head/overheating issues until he got sick of the car. The transmission and mechanical issues coupled with his inability to get a title got the best of him. It has been sitting in his yard rusting over a year.

 

I only checked the RF frame rail. The car had sunk down a little into the ground and the ground was really wet today so I didn't dig very deep. I made a judgement based on the rust off that rail and the rear wheel wells. The car isn't that bad as I have seen much worse brought back. I could do alot of grinding and some creative fiberglassing and hold the rust at bay. I am sure I could probably use some 14ga steel stock and patch the front rails.

 

The title issue is what bothers me.

 

Also automatic transmission issues aren't super-expensive but aren't cheap to take care of either.

 

The overheating issue could be simple or complex. It's a matter of taking it apart and seeing what is going on. Now that I think about it, what he saidmakes no sense. First he told me he was haivng overheating and white smoke problems so he chnged the head and it started overheating... He said you have about 5-10mins after starting it until the needle maxes out hot whther it's moving or stationary.

 

When you add all these together it makes you wonder if the finished product will be worth the total investment. As with any project car you would never recoup your $$ should you have to sell it. I think this car would have to be labor of love to spend that much money.

 

The current owner wants $1000 for it but agreed to take $750 for it as is. The price is not too bad. It's worth that in parts to me.

 

I am just not a fan of killing off a yellow car. ...but I am also not a big fan of going too far upside down in any car especially one that could be lost due to a lein or other title issue.

 

I am torn... I guess I will just have to wait until I get it home and really assess it.

 

 

On a happier note I am going to NYC Monday to look at another StarQuest that has rust--but this one is sooooo worth it!!

Edited March 20, 2011 by helrazr70

[BC_99]

The title issues arent issues. My title was voided by NCDMV right in front of me, I went to mainelytitles and got a new one. Just make sure you get a notorized bill of sale with the car and you are good to go. That, pics of vin plates, a copy of your D/L, and a copy of your ins. card, and you will have the car lisenced and registered, in your name, in the state of maine. Then go to your local dmv and transfer to your state. NC is one of the worst states for this kinda stuff and I managed it.

 

BC_99

[helrazr70]

mainelytitles.com is where I got my title issue resolved on my fiji for a couple hundred $.

 

BC_99

 

I just checked that site.

 

$395 for this car.

 

They require:

 

Valid state inspection

Insurance

Notarized Bill of Sale

...and other documenation

 

 

That mean I would have todo A LOT of work to get this car together before I could find out if I could get a title at all.

 

Normally I wouldn't be so skiddish about titles but I have been burned TWICE. I rebuilt a '88 Mustang GT convertible that took a light hit to the A pillar/door. The seller told me it had a clear title. I got it about finished when the title came--It was a Florida Nonrebuildable Salvage title. I was very PO'd and los a ton of $$.

 

The second time I applied for a lost title with a bill of sale I had a nice restorable '70 Mustang fastback that I was working on. A week later a Sherriff's car showed up with a tow truck. I was informed the car was reported stolen in 1983 and also that the guy that sold it to me did not have the right to sell it even though it had been in his family for years. I lost $3500 that time with no recourse becase the guy had already spent my money and was broke.

 

So, I am leary of "no title" cars unless they are being parted.

[Burton]

Yeah, title issues are not issues. The body issues are probably more of a consideration than the title, but even then, I'd save a car that color.

[helrazr70]

agreed..... buy the color tag and paint yours to match said tag....

 

I thought about that...

 

My current car is a nice roller with 60k miles and absolutely zero rust. It needs a few dings knocked out and paint. (and a drivetrain/few misc trim pieces) It would be a shame to change the tag on that one. ...but without the oiginal drivetrain I guess 60k miles doesn't matter as much dos it? I guess the silver lining is that the engine is already out.

 

The one in NYC is an '89 Starion. ...yet another one that would be a shame to reVIN.

 

Maybe I should paint the silver one yellow and swap the drivetrains between the yellow Quest and the '89 Starion? ('89 Starion is probably one of the top 10 (possibly top 5) best built G54B set-ups I have seen.

 

Hmmmmm...

[StarquestRescue]

It is a parts car. $300-$500 tops if you really need the parts. Sounds like most of the parts are little better than cores.

[helrazr70]

I am beginning to think that making it a parts car is the best route. I can take what I need and then opass it on to the next guy for cheap and they can decide if it's worth it to use another parts car to rebuild it and do the title search.

 

My main reason for saying this is that there is a rust free, straight body, yellow, 5spd '88 Conquest in VA for $2500 that could probably be had for $2000. I could not get this project automatic car to the level of that one for the same price not even counting the title purchase.

 

$750 car purchase price

$200 gas/tow dolly to go get it

$400 title service fee

$325 new clearwater head

$100 full gasket kit

$100 complete timing set/BSE

$300 complete exhaust-this one is pieced together without muffler and gutted converter.

$150 auto tranny rebuild kit

$300 auto tranny torque converter

$110 new fuel pump

$800 items to get through state inspecton (battery, tires, rotors, pads, wiper arms, wipers, replace 2 bent rims, etc)

 

+ purchase price of general maintenance items like master cyl, injectors, u-joints, fusible links, hoses, belts, RF fender, full left rear 1/4 panel, fiberglass kit, paint prep supplies, and then the money to have someone finish prep it and paint it. (and hope that rust doen't pop up somewhere else an ruin a new paint job!)

 

I know most cars require a lot of what I have listed but either most of it has already been done at some point, or the price is lower and the title is present. I am from the south where rust just doesn't happen and is never a factor.

 

I am also very picky as Jimmy mentioned. Jimmy (and the rest of you) have seen 4 of my StarQuests and they all were very special in the end and had lots of time, effort, and energy put into them. I like to have my cars absolutely perfect. Unfortunately I sold 3 of those cars due to life events and 1 because I got tired of constant repair--my first one. I am not quite to Kreal's perfection level but pretty close. My budget does not reflect my perfectionist attitude toward these cars. For them to have my personal stamp of approval their full potential has to be attainable without going too far over their end value and they have to be beautiful and reliable inside and out.

 

We will just see what comes of it once I get it to my house. I may trade it to someone who has a running parts car that has all that I need.

 

This car doesn't look that bad at a glance. The passenger side looks good except the dent in the fender and a crease in the lower rear 1/4. The driver side looks good from different angles until you see the full rear 1/4 with it's damage in front of and behind the rear wheel with the ripple going higher into the 1/4 panel. The hood has the standard low spot dents and the header panel is mashed pretty good. The roof has those 2 deep dings and there are a few door dings around the car. The rust is right now on the frame rails and inside the wheel wells and hasn't penetrated the outer body yet. It's just when you start adding up all the other little things that the $$ signs start echoing.

[IntercooledFlatty]

T80 "might" be worth it if you love "that" color

[pure_insanity]

chris, its a car.(im about to get bashed here). its a car that is worth crap except to us enthusiast. you get outside of our little circle and nobody gives a rats arse about these cars. now your talking about saving one that needs that much work? i understand we would love to keep all of these cars on the road we can, but come on, like i said its just a car. nothing but tin, glass and plastic. when your going to go that far upside down, the economics and logic just arent there and personally i say leave it where it lays, unless you caqn buy it for cheaper than you can buy the parts it will give you. otherwise, your just bringing home a mess and you know you will continue to be torn. next thing you know youve sunk money into an area you shouldnt be sinking it into. i say leave it alone.

[helrazr70]

chris, its a car.(im about to get bashed here). its a car that is worth crap except to us enthusiast. you get outside of our little circle and nobody gives a rats arse about these cars. now your talking about saving one that needs that much work? i understand we would love to keep all of these cars on the road we can, but come on, like i said its just a car. nothing but tin, glass and plastic. when your going to go that far upside down, the economics and logic just arent there and personally i say leave it where it lays, unless you caqn buy it for cheaper than you can buy the parts it will give you. otherwise, your just bringing home a mess and you know you will continue to be torn. next thing you know youve sunk money into an area you shouldnt be sinking it into. i say leave it alone.

 

Well Grant, that's pretty much the answer I have been looking for as that is how I am thinking about it now. I don't think you will get flamed anyh more than I will if I sell it as a parts car without a title. The guy has had many offers on the car but none as high as $750. He is throwing in a 5spd trans, flywheel, and clutch with the deal.

 

I can't buy all these parts after paying shipping for $750:

 

engine longblock with manifolds, sensors, and injectors

turbo, intercooler, and all soft/hardpipes

oil cooler and lines

grille and sidemarkers

console

steering column trim

transmission

matched steering lock, door locks, trunk lock, and gas door lock

uncracked rear spoiler pieces.

all engine accessories

gas tank filler neck and hoses

spare tire, lugwrench, and jack

driver side rocker panel/skirt

underhood fusebox and misc relays

misc bolts and hardware

 

...and I would have some parts to sell to recoup some of the investment if I got my parts from this car.

 

If I don't buy it, he is going to part it out and crush it so either way I guess it's doomed. His dad wants it gone ASAP. The car is located in the mountains of NE PA down several dirt roads near the NY border.

 

If I buy the '89 Starion tomorrow I am toying with the idea of taking it back to stock and selling it to someone who has interest in one of the rarest SQs out there--because how many of the 160ish are left? It all depends on how much interest there is in a cloth interior R04 '89 Starion and if I decide to put all the mods from the '89 on the '88 roller I have. This Starion has more mods than you care to read about...

 

I will know more tomorrow if I bring home the '89 Starion.

[Dred_85.5_TSI]

Some of us would care to read about the mods.....

[helrazr70]

Some of us would care to read about the mods.....

 

Ok. You asked for it...

 

1989 Mitsubishi Starion 5SPD Manual 101k miles

 

ENGINE: 2600cc g54b SOHC

Fuel Injection Pro Multiport w/ Standalone ECU Megasquirt

1000cc Bosch injectors

Garrett 35R .078a/r turbo

Tial 44mm

Halman BC

Custom IC pipes with bar and plate FMIC

Ported Marnal Head with new valves and seals

ZEX 50 shot NOS kit unused

Magnecor 5mm wire

MSD Spark Discharge AMP

EL Custom Stainless headers from Chad

Custom 3" TBE with HKS Hyper Muffler

HKS SQV BOV

Custom 2 core Aluminum Radiator

Aeromotive FPR

ARP Main Bolts

ARP Header Bolts

AN fittings and steel braided lines

SS fasteners all around

Custom Strutbar

Rear Mounted Battery

 

Suspension:

Rare Cusco Camber plates

Eibach springs

Tokico shocks

Stedebani Poly bushings all around

ST Swaybars 22mm front 19mm rear

 

Drivetrain:

ACT Extreme PP

ACT Organic clutch

Fidanza 9 lbs Flywheel

Bane Short shifter

Exterior:

83 Hood

83 Tail lights

 

Interior:

Momo Race Steering Wheel

Momo Race Shift Knob

Momo Shift boot

Momo Mats

Autometer Pro Comp Gauges

Boost,Fuel Press, EGT, Vac

AEM wideband AF/R Gauge

Razo Pedals

Pioneer radio and EQ with 6 disk changer...old school

Drive Amps

JBL speakers

Greddy TT

 

...and more.

[helrazr70]

OK, since I have already made arrangements to go see it and I am first in line for it I will tell you which car it is.

 

It is Jozel's old car. If you have been around this site very long you have seen this car and the amount of time and money that went into this car. It is probably in the top 5 of the most well built cars on this site when you factor in all that's done. There was about $12k spent on the mods alone. The current owner is asking $6k.

 

I left these off the list above since they would have been a dead-giveaway on which car it is.

 

Wheels:

5Zigen FN01rc

Front 17x9 +15 offset

Rear 17x10 +12 Offset

Kumho Ecsta MX

Front 245/45/17

Rear 275/40/17

 

I was browsing craigslist about 3 weeks ago when I found his ad. I wrote him, got some more info and pics, and then I thought about it for a week and then decided I wanted it. Unfortunately he was out of town until March 20th. So tomorrow I am headed to Long Island, NY to hopefully bring it home.

 

It has a little rust but nothing too bad from what I am told.

[Dred_85.5_TSI]

Now see I like that! It sounds like an awesome car, rare and nicely modified. Hopefully it's not too rusty being that it's in New York thats what I'm afraid of.