Lightened crank

[superscan811]

I can't seem to find the exact pistons you have, how do you think these would turn?

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a381/skullzaflare/KGrHqQOKnEE3ZeHQByBN5--FTkdg_12_zps99521403.jpg

Those pistons are the standard cast ones and should be easy to machine. The pistons I'm using are the Wiseco Forged pistons K509M925 (I'll check tomorrow). Bought them off Ebay about 12 months ago.

 

 

 

what head are you using?

have any more pics of the head chambers?

 

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Head/No-Valve%20Guide%20seat..jpg

This is the M8 head (with the kidney shaped chamber) that was running on my stock 4G54 engine. I have another one in the shed somewhere if you need more pics.

 

Because of the piston dome I have to use an M7 head for the High Comp engine.

 

 

 

 

First stage of the porting work is almost done.

 

http://110.174.47.143/SG/HC-ENGINE/M7-HC-VW-In-01.jpg

 

http://110.174.47.143/SG/HC-ENGINE/M7-HC-VW-Ex-01.jpg

 

http://110.174.47.143/SG/HC-ENGINE/M7-HC-VW-Chamber-01.jpg

 

A little bit more work on the exhaust side is needed before the new guides can be installed, but once they are in, the seats can be cut down to size. After that is done, I can finish the final bit of blending and de-schrouding work. Also planing on opening up the ID of the seats another 0.040-0.060", depending on what the engineering shop recommends.

 

Trying to get everything done that I can to finish the head but will need to spend at least another $500 to finish it off.

 

Because I don't have enough projects already, I'm in the process of purchasing a 70% finished Sigma rally car (build details are here), so funds are running very low, and it will be a few weeks before I can afford to do anything..

 

 

 

Cheers.

[Skullzaflare]

Have you ran across any pistons that would work out for around 9:1/10:1 compression? I'm looking in that ball park but not having any luck, I have a standard marnel head, not kidney

[importwarrior]

nice work.

willing to ship me a M8 head???

i have wanted one for a very long time.

[superscan811]

Have you ran across any pistons that would work out for around 9:1/10:1 compression? I'm looking in that ball park but not having any luck, I have a standard marnel head, not kidney

For turbo or N/A? (yes I have seen over 10:1CR on a high boost turbo engine...)

 

For N/A it's easy. Standard flat top pistons, Machine the block so the pistons are 0.010" above deck and take roughly 0.080" off the head (cc the chamber first)

I've made up a little excel spreadsheet to calculate the CR. It's in metric but it also has the conversions for imperial.

 

 

 

nice work.

Thanks..

 

willing to ship me a M8 head???

i have wanted one for a very long time.

More than happy to, but as as I have informed you before, shipping from Australia is stupidly high. AusPost/DHL/UPS all seem to think Australia is a small Island in the middle of the ocean (LOL).. The heads are cheap at around $120 but the shipping is approx $350....

 

If you can find some cheap shipping, there are a lot of people who want M7 heads on your side of the world along with the Magna plenums and electronic dizzy's for an easy MPI conversion.

 

 

 

 

Cheers.

[Skullzaflare]

For turbo or N/A? (yes I have seen over 10:1CR on a high boost turbo engine...)

 

For N/A it's easy. Standard flat top pistons, Machine the block so the pistons are 0.010" above deck and take roughly 0.080" off the head (cc the chamber first)

I've made up a little excel spreadsheet to calculate the CR. It's in metric but it also has the conversions for imperial.

 

 

 

Thanks..

 

More than happy to, but as as I have informed you before, shipping from Australia is stupidly high. AusPost/DHL/UPS all seem to think Australia is a small Island in the middle of the ocean (LOL).. The heads are cheap at around $120 but the shipping is approx $350....

 

If you can find some cheap shipping, there are a lot of people who want M7 heads on your side of the world along with the Magna plenums and electronic dizzy's for an easy MPI conversion.

 

 

 

 

Cheers.

Yes boosted, looking at raising my static compression, and running a bigger exhaust housing with less boost. Give me some more low end power

I'm having a hard time finding anything.

[Lizzord30]

I have a Race done SS OS vavles, M8 head on my starion (MPI), and its been one of the better mods I have done, The higher compression is very nice! It made my 60-1 spool like a 12a on MPI. To bad Clear water wouldnt just make all their heads like the M8!

[superscan811]

I have a Race done SS OS vavles, M8 head on my starion (MPI), and its been one of the better mods I have done, The higher compression is very nice! It made my 60-1 spool like a 12a on MPI. To bad Clear water wouldnt just make all their heads like the M8!

Too bad the shipping costs out of Australia are soo high. The M8 head is a nice head and the ports from factory are quite good (except the short radius on the exhaust).

 

Purchased a 1" ball nose carbide burr to help with the porting work.

It made the work so much faster and easier. The large diameter of the burr, along with the front radius, means that I'm able to do the curves a lot smoother as well.

 

Here are a few pics.

 

Inlet BEFORE and AFTER.

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Head/m6-7/PORTING/M7-Inlet-before.jpg

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Head/m6-7/PORTING/M7-Inlet-after.jpg

 

 

Exhaust BEFORE and AFTER.

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Head/m6-7/PORTING/M7-Exhaust-before.jpg

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Head/m6-7/PORTING/M7-Exhaust-after.jpg

 

 

 

The heads are now in getting the valve/guide/seat work done and should be finished in the next week or so.

Once they are back, I can finish the porting/blending work. After that, it's just a few small steps to finish the build.

 

Then comes the fun part.

 

 

Cheers.

[theastronaut]

Awesome!! Love to see engine builds like this! The crank lightening was particularly interesting to me as I've been working on lightening, reshaping, and polishing the crank for my 2276cc VW build. Very nice work so far and I'll be following along for the rest!

 

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/767408.jpg

 

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/767407.jpg

[Technology]

[superscan811]

Awesome!! Love to see engine builds like this! The crank lightening was particularly interesting to me as I've been working on lightening, reshaping, and polishing the crank for my 2276cc VW build. Very nice work so far and I'll be following along for the rest!

Thank you, but from looking at your handiwork, I've have a long way to go...

 

You seem to have both "show" and "go" while I'm still working on the "go"..

 

As my brother puts it, I'm a computer geek with delusions of adequacy when it comes to machining...

 

Next week I should have enough funds to pick up the heads.

 

Pics to follow.

 

 

Cheers.

[superscan811]

Well, not much work on the 14:1 CR engine due to the engineering shop destroying 2 sets of inlet valves (to the value of $500), and refusing to replace them.

 

In the meantime, I had to rebuild my Astron engine in the Triton, after blowing a head gasket.

 

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/Blown%20head%20gasket.jpg

 

Similar work done to lighten the crank, but not as radical.

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/Lightened%20crank.jpg

 

and using one of my brothers lightened flywheel and 10" clutch package.

 

ARP Rod bolts, Main studs and head studs but standard rods. Compression is 11.2:1

 

Not a bad result, 106 kw (142 hp)

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/DYNO.jpg

 

but I still need to to do a bit more work with AFR's down low.

 

 

Cheers.

[Skullzaflare]

what pistons are 11.2:1?

[superscan811]

what pistons are 11.2:1?

None to my knowledge.

 

Work done to the engine to achieve 11.2:1

.120" off the head to get a 48cc chamber.

.010" off the block

7cc dish pistons (92mm).

 

Cheers.

[superscan811]

106rwkw is NICE, but I want MORE.... so I started building another normally aspirated engine for the Ute.

 

Comp on this engine will be 12½:1 (current engine is 11.2:1)

 

Block is away getting bored and decked.

 

Another lightened and knife-edged crank is ready to be balanced.

BEFORE and AFTER.

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/CRANK_BEFORE-AFTER.jpg

 

 

Ford 5.4L rods which are 0.122" (3.1mm) longer and 30% lighter than the standard rods.

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/5.4_ROD.jpg

 

Because these rods are "floaters, I'll need to make up some "buttons" to go in the ends of the gudgeon pin so it doesn't move. Thought about modding the pistons and gudgeon pins to use c-clips, but I've been told that isn't a good idea.

0.157" (4mm) spacers will also be required to center the rod on the gudgeon because the bigend is also narrower than standard and will also be "floating".

 

The M8 head will be shaved approx 0.118" (3mm) for a combustion chamber size of 48cc. 1mm-OS stainless valves, porting, bronze guides, bee-hive valve springs, swivel foot tappets and a lumpy cam.

 

The matching M8 pistons will need to be approx 0.085" (2.2mm) shorter. This shouldn't be a problem because they already have a 0.063" (1.6mm) dish in them.

 

This time I'll be going EFI with my quad throttle bodies off a Hayabussa, which I have spaced out to suit the M7 head port width.

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/QUAD.jpg

 

 

The ECU is a MICROSQUIRT 3

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/MICROSQUIRT.jpg

 

 

Using a Dynatek ARC-2 dual CDI unit (wasted spark).

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/DYNATEK.jpg

 

 

Because I'll be running E85, I'll also be using 440cc low impedance injectors out of a VR4. They should be good for at least 140rwkw (185rwhp).

 

This should be interesting..

 

 

Cheers.

[Skullzaflare]

aside from floater, what would be needed to use those 5.4 rods on a 7;1 piston? how much would that alter compression? or on a floater 8:1

[superscan811]

aside from floater, what would be needed to use those 5.4 rods on a 7;1 piston?

The bigend and gudgeon diameters are the same as the standard 4G54 pistons. If you were using a piston that was c-clipped or spirolocked, just the spacers on the gudgeon pin, either side of the rod, to make sure it's central on the crank.

After that, the top of the pistons will need to be machined down so they don't hit the head.

 

how much would that alter compression? or on a floater 8:1

I'd need to know compression height (center of the gudgeon to the top of the piston), along with the piston dish (depth and diameter) to be able to correctly work it out.

 

 

 

 

Cheers.

[superscan811]

Had a look at my set of Wiseco pistons and going off them, with 2.2mm removed from the top of the piston

1.) a 7:1 it would be around 7.75:1.

2.) an 8:1 would be around 8.8:1.

 

 

 

Cheers.

[Skullzaflare]

Had a look at my set of Wiseco pistons and going off them, with 2.2mm removed from the top of the piston

1.) a 7:1 it would be around 7.75:1.

2.) an 8:1 would be around 8.8:1.

 

 

 

Cheers.

dont we have 4-5mm clearance from the deck at tdc? (on a stock 7:1) on a stock hemi njv head, not a reshaped kidney

 

i never actually measured the room from tdc, ill have to message DAD

[superscan811]

dont we have 4-5mm clearance from the deck at tdc? (on a stock 7:1) on a stock hemi njv head, not a reshaped kidney

The dish in the piston is 4mm deep but the top of the piston is only 0.6mm below the top of the block.

 

Allowing a SAFE clearance of 0.039" (1mm) between the piston and head, including gasket, (compressed head gasket is 0.051" or 1.3mm) for a 7000rpm limit, that's a maximum piston compression height, using the Ford rods, of approx 1.331" (33.8m) EXCLUDING piston dish.

 

I'd recommend a safe piston height "above the block" of .0010" (0.25mm), "JUST IN CASE".

Better to err on the side of caution than to destroy an engine.

 

I'll be dummy assembling my engine to check the clearances before I machining the pistons, and would recommend anyone attempting using these rods to do the same.

 

It doesn't take long, and the benefits of taking the time to check, far outweigh the possibility of destroying your engine if you don't.

 

Just remember that the piston will need to be "AT MOST 0.0010" ABOVE THE BLOCK" to allow for rod stretch at 7000rpm.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers.

[superscan811]

Had a bit of a set back with the block.

 

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Triton/CRACKS.jpg

 

Cracks on 3 of the bolt holes.. It was just a pity it wasn't picked up before all the machining was done...

 

Have grabbed another block and it's off being machined at the moment..

 

 

 

Cheers.

[clow340]

Wow, that sucks..

[Funky Phil]

Pretty common

[Funky Phil]

what cam are you running? I woulda expected a little more RPM

[psu_Crash]

Pretty common

 

Sure is. I have 2 blocks that look like that on the exhaust side

[superscan811]

Pretty common

Especially if the engine has been cooked any time in its life.

 

what cam are you running? I woulda expected a little more RPM

http://110.174.47.143/SG/Speko-334.jpg

 

I've changed the exhaust to a 2½" because there was an internal 1¾" section of old pipe, previously welded inside the extractors, by whoever owned them before me.

 

Replacing the exhaust leaned out all the AFR's so I've had to change the fueling.

 

"Seat of pants" dyno says there is a bit more there but I'll have to confirm next time on the dyno.

 

 

Cheers.