clow340

Hello everyone, as some of you know ive been swapping a 302 t5 set up in my car and have been dragging my feet very slowly due to a remodel of my house.. after tons of steering and geometry research as well as fab work ive decided the engine bay is too small for my plans.. you will be seeing another convette inspired quest soon. Anyway, this is a trans mount i made for a 5spd car for a t5 5.0/2.3 swap with 90-93 foxbody engine mounts. I highly suggest slotting the holes that mount to the car for more adjustment (i can do this if your interested). Im sure spacers/washers will be needed to get the angle correct for the drive shaft. Pm if interested or have questions. 75 plus shipping with the slots obo http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/20151116_184136.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/20151116_185355.jpg

Might want to check what 318 there using, jeeps have a different starter location then the dodges. ^ i would also opt for the 360 out of a truck or dingo, same block more cubes.

this past years snodrift was brutal, it was like -20 before wind chill. ill be there again next year too.

Huh, I didnt think the stock gyometry would work right with flat ones.. let alone being factory o.o where do i get a set of those??? I can copy those flat ones and just make a quick jig to bore the ball joint at an angle

That happened to me once, i think its from overtightening the bolt several times. I had my pump off 5-6 times in a few months.

Both gone

My dad had 2 of those, he claims they would squak the tires if you dumped the clutch

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-GT-R-GTS-T-/321848772468?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4aefae8774&item=321848772468 i like looking at cars ill never have, but its more fun to look at the back ground and whats around the main item.

no where super close to you but we send my shops plating to pioneer metal finishing up in indiana, they also have a place in mexico too. there pretty inexpensive for the quality.

Starion emblem on hatch?

hmm.. i would like to see how they work on a factory car, or one with d2s. im using the d2s and they limit the suspension travel to like 4 inches. i was banking on that to limit any bump steer that might be present. ill pm you

Take the choke plates out, i doubt youll be running in temps under 50 outside. If it wont start and idle with out them its tuned wrong.

If your going na i would suggest lighten everything. Aluminum flywheel, 225 clutch, gut car ect. If your opening up the block then lighten the crank, port th poo out of the head and get compression up to 9 to 1 or better a nice header even. I dont see an advantage but if thats what your plan is then might as well make the engine turn more than 6k..

My eyes hurt from seeing the car, my mind hurts from deciphering that message..

curious to what trans it has in it?? if its an ax15 i would think some one stuck that in there out of a v6 maybe? looks like a fun truck, nice buy

ill come back to it this winter some time, right now im finishing an addition on my house..

just thought id show how i shortened mine for some more angle. this kinda goes with my saturn rack swap i did (which im super behind on updating and probably wont be updated anytime soon..) but can be used with the factory steering set up for sure. the first thing i did was figure out how everyone else was doing this with other cars. its not exactly a common thing here in the starquest world to go about cutting the steering all up and trying to get more angle for drifting or make the car more responsive by quickening the steering ratio with some geometry changes. the easiest one to look at for answers are the 240 guys, theyre the ones that are getting 60 degrees or more of angle with just knuckle mods. how ever there are tons of horror stories of the knuckles breaking from being improperly welded. There knuckles are made out of cast iron and is not easy to weld. For those that do not know ill be quick here, cast iron has a ton of carbon, if you weld it with a carbon steel wire via mig it attracts all the surrounding carbon in the metal to the welded area and makes it super brittle next to the weld. If you use nickel rod via arc welding the nickel will absorb some of the carbon, but sometimes the carbon just builds up around the weld and makes it brittle next to the weld just like mig. if you use the stainless wire in a mig it works similar to nickel rod for arc. Ive heard that you can tig the iron with stainless filler and that it works pretty well too. ALL OF THESE METHODS require heating of the iron to 350 or so with peening and a slow cool down. And its still not a 100% success rate. So before i even started this i needed to know what the knuckles are made out of. I work in a tool room but i dont have access to anything that i could use to quick determine what its made out of. about an hour of digging through some ancient books and some googling i figured ill use a spark test method to figure out what it was (ill let you look it up). Lucky for us i concluded that the knuckles were made of cast steel and can be welded just like any other kind of carbon steel with no cast iron issues. So, let us begin. Im pretty luck in that i work with manual mills and lathes all day and have a full machine shop at my disposal. first thing i did was decided how much i was going to take off and how i was going to do it. I figured that a .250 would be a good start, so a .250 end mill will do. a band saw wouldve worked too. (unfortunatly i have no during pics just before and afters) http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006481.jpg you can kinda see between the photo above and this one where the cut was made. i tried to keep it inbetween the bolt hole and and corner. be sure to scribe a line so you can match the two pieces up after you cut it in two be fore cutting it. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006491.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006501.jpg next we're cutting that pesky steering stop off. itll make it easier to weld and now you have a test piece to weld on. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006511.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006521.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006531.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006541.jpg THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!! this is where those countless hours of internet searching and forum picking comes in. i HIGHLY suggest you do not just weld the knuckle back together via the original scribed line you made at the beginning. if you do you are increasing the ackerman angle that the steering will have meaning your inside tire will turn far more in relating to the outside tire during turns instead of just a little like how the factory had it set. for example if the original set up had the outside tire at 35 degrees on the outside and 38 degrees on the inside just welding in back on would make it 35 degrees on the outside and 42 degrees on the inside. the inside tire would be scrubbing too much. I drew the whole steering set up out on paper and in solidworks to figure out what changes would do what. With our steering i came up with every .250in shortened it should be moved to the center of the knuckle (90degrees to the spindle or towards the outside of the car) .250in. this keeps factory ackerman very close to stock as well as minimizing bump stop too, just more angle. original scribe mark http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006551.jpg .250in off set http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006561.jpg next you go ahead and put some tacks on it (i was tigging it with stainless rod) http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006591.jpg if you only took .250in off it still lines up really good on the top and bottom. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006611.jpg put some grooves in it for good penetration http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006581.jpg some ugly welds and some paint later your done! almost looks factory.. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006631.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006641.jpg you will how ever need new bump stops, but you should easy pick up an extra 10 degrees or more in angle. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006661.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006671.jpg and your all done!! And it wont be all sketchy like a welded 240 knuckle (no offense to anyone hope this helped anyone that was wondering about more angle.

i have a 5speed out of an 89 quest that likes to grind second and third BAADDD. it never pops out and always goes in smooth (yes i know). its $20, please get it out of my garage. also with this one time offer you get an awesome 89 auto with 78k fo freeeee!! torque converter and flex plate included!! located near wayland, MI (who ever comes just bring a wad of cash and buy other stuff too) pm for info, thanks http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM00024.jpg

hello everyone, i have all of the power steering lines (i mean ALL of them) unbent, complete.no leaks with pump and reservoir from an 89 quest with 106k on the clock. There all covered in oil and ill have to drain before shipping but otherwise in pretty good shape over all. the only thing i did was unbolt it from the steering box and painstakingly removed them from the car. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006771.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006781.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006791.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006811.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM006821.jpg fittings are in usable shape and hoses arent dry rotted. was thinking 100 shipped (it may take a day or two to get a box large and safe enough to ship in) next is an oil cooler off the same car. the car had a bad engine when i got it so i spent a long time cleaning it out when i rebuilt the engine and its never leaked, but the original lines blew on me so these lines are off an 87 with 101k. these lines are in very usable shape and i put 6k on them before pulling the engine. the bottom of the cooler was dented in to clear a massive intercooler. http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM007111.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/skunkworks_1/conquest/CAM007121.jpg bolts and washers come with it. 45 shipped pm with questions, thanks

Threads been dead for almost 3yrs

pmed.

You would need to get a smaller brake booster for the 351, or dent the side in. MAYBE it would clear the valve cover if you installed after the engine was in. Honestly thats about it for clearence.. the 302 in mine seems ok, and a 351 is just taller, it should fit others have done it.

The mexican blocks i know to have thicker main webbing, caps and lifter valley. Supposedly they have thicker bores too, but that hasent been proven really. There good too 500hp+, but thats mostly here-say... On boost a standard roller block can take a little over 400hp before splitting or breaking a crank (Just google crank failure 302, its epic). If your spinning a stock roller lower end past 7k it becomes a time bomb around 400hp too. yes theres proof of higher hp, 400 is pretty safe na or boost. I saw a guy with a 347 stroker with over 550 at the wheels so who knows what some blocks can take. but nothing beats an aftermarket block and crank.

Huh.. well i know what im doing next. Theres radiator room now. Its lookin good

How about an entire key and lock set for 75? With the key of course.