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89 Quest Build Thread


Frenchi934
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You will have a severe angle to get the tranny and engine out as one. We did that on Kreals car .. the second one was Mine, I left the tranny in and on Coldscrip we pulled the engine then the tranny.

 

Dad

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I pulled the engine/transmission together on my Supra....and to have a full Inline 6 engine assembly+transmission of almost 1000lbs hovering over my car, on a 80 degree angle, was SCAREY.
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I pulled the engine/transmission together on my Supra....and to have a full Inline 6 engine assembly+transmission of almost 1000lbs hovering over my car, on a 80 degree angle, was SCAREY.

 

might try to pull them separate then. The only reason I was going to do them together is because that's what the service manual says loll

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might try to pull them separate then. The only reason I was going to do them together is because that's what the service manual says loll

 

Trust us. Really you drain the trans, remove the shifter, undo 4 bolts for the driveshaft to torque tube, remove driveshaft, remove transmission mount ( 4 bolts ), speedo cable + electricals, than the 6 bolts on the bellhousing and wiggle it like no other, and it'll just drop and crush your chest. ^_^

 

Then you can remove the engine without worrying about a transmission swinging around and breaking 20 year old parts. I helped a local do just that, and his hand slipped when we had it almost out. Tail end of the trans swung about and cracked the top of the ABS canister. <_<

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Trust us. Really you drain the trans, remove the shifter, undo 4 bolts for the driveshaft to torque tube, remove driveshaft, remove transmission mount ( 4 bolts ), speedo cable + electricals, than the 6 bolts on the bellhousing and wiggle it like no other, and it'll just drop and crush your chest. ^_^

 

Then you can remove the engine without worrying about a transmission swinging around and breaking 20 year old parts. I helped a local do just that, and his hand slipped when we had it almost out. Tail end of the trans swung about and cracked the top of the ABS canister. <_<

 

Thanks for the tip guys! I have everything ready to come out then, I just have to unbolt the tranny at the bellhousing and I should be able to pull it out the bottom like ya'll said.

 

Dad- thanks for the info I was just about to ask that question before dropping that beast down onto me haha.

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Thanks for the tip guys! I have everything ready to come out then, I just have to unbolt the tranny at the bellhousing and I should be able to pull it out the bottom like ya'll said.

 

Dad- thanks for the info I was just about to ask that question before dropping that beast down onto me haha.

 

Good luck! Make sure you have a spotter on top for the top bolts, and make sure you don't strip them out and have the right socket size on there!

 

Also, remove your starter ^_^

 

 

Don't even really need to drain the transmission, if your pulling it seperate and your careful.

 

Didn't you learn anything from KTD's oil thread? :lol:

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I've student taught there as a guest on robotics ( I go to SPSU - well, not currently, need to go back - my major is Mechatronics Engineering )

 

I just couldn't afford GT as I was considered an international or out of state citizen <_<

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Day 5: (6-30-10)

 

Today was busy. After my physics test this morning (feel good about it btw) it was pretty much nothing but car stuff until now haha.

 

Im glad I talked to you guys about the engine removal. It took a heck of a lot of wiggling, but we got the tranny off the engine and dropped out the bottom of the car, after that lifting the engine up and out was extremely easy.

 

The boom on the hoist was just a tad too short to go from the front of the car. :P :

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/2536/sdc10403.jpg

 

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6702/sdc10406i.jpg

 

empty ^_^:

 

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4524/sdc10409d.jpg

 

Clutch may be a little worn and the flywheel has a few teeth on it that are a little chewed up:

 

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/694/sdc10412o.jpg

 

When we put the engine on the stand and tilted it a little it sounded like something was rattling around in the oil pan: :unsure:

So I turned it upside down to take the oil pan off and heard whatever it was fall down into the engine..

 

http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/2254/sdc10425r.jpg

 

I spy something out of place loll:

 

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/1944/sdc10430.jpg

 

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/8184/sdc10431t.jpg

 

The rest of it was down in the oil pan:

 

http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/3916/sdc10433.jpg

 

Looks like those balance shafts really are a problem lol. It was the chain that drives them. Is the oil pump, by any chance, on that circuit too? because the crank bearings look fine..

 

a couple more pictures:

 

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4328/sdc10455c.jpg

 

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6679/sdc10457l.jpg

 

Finally, I cleaned up the transmission

 

Before:

 

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6133/sdc10451i.jpg

 

After:

 

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/7296/sdc10458.jpg

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I've student taught there as a guest on robotics ( I go to SPSU - well, not currently, need to go back - my major is Mechatronics Engineering )

 

I just couldn't afford GT as I was considered an international or out of state citizen <_<

 

OUCH... BCraig knows about that one haha he's out of state... 4x tuition of what in staters pay :[

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I'd replace all the main bearings, oil pump and such while I'm in there.

 

Ask me how I know <_<

 

haha yeah. probably going to rebuild the whole thing just because

I feel like I should go ahead and do forged rods and stuff while I have it apart just in case I want to do more with it later..

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haha yeah. probably going to rebuild the whole thing just because

I feel like I should go ahead and do forged rods and stuff while I have it apart just in case I want to do more with it later..

 

That you may want to ask in the Engine Build section.

 

From what I've come to understand though, going with forged pistons such as wiseco's don't really make much HP difference ( unless you're shooting for big numbers )

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Skip the forged rods. The stock bottom end on these engines is pretty stout. If you want to rebuild it, and go for a nice set of weisco's with some fully floated stock rods from Dad (Randy). Nearly everything you need will be here, http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html

 

EDIT:

 

Just because I have a LOAD of time here, you might considering getting this for a stockish performance rebuild.

 

Balance Shaft Elimination 6 Piece Kit - $39.95

OEM Oil Pump Gasket - $3.03

OEM O/Ring for Pickup Tube - $5.49 (I use this because I find other giving me problems with sealing correctly)

OEM Oil Pump - $211.38

Wiseco 8.0-1 Forged Skirt Pistons - $525.00 (could do the Hyper-U pistons, but since you are investing in pistons and machine work why not forged?)

Schneider 6610 Heavy duty valve spring kit -$42.00 (better safe than sorry I'd say)

4 Race prepped Connecting rods - $355.00 plus shipping there (Fully floating will give you two movement points for the piston so if one siezes up the piston can still move.)

 

 

ARP Head Studs - $102.95

Complete Camshaft Timing Kit - $46.99

JET Valve elimination kit - $13.95

AJUSA Metal head gasket Set - $109.00 (one of the best gaskets around)

Schinder 274H-14 Cam - $118.95 plus shipping (Good cam for driving, adds a little pep.) http://schneidercams.com/274H-14_U-FW.aspx

 

That is my short list.

Edited by Minagera
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