psu_Crash

Welcome back! Looking forward to updates

Excellent! It sounded a lot like a ground problem. Probably just a poor connection on one of the plugs ... maybe. A strong beverage and a smoke are what gets me through a LOT of car issues 😁 I'm not real sure where the appropriate place would be for the file. Maybe in digital quest? Hey @JAinsworthwhat do you think?

In for updates! I have 2 transmissions that are in need of a rebuild. One of them, I believe needs the input bearing. I seem to remember that one is now unobtainium. Although those Cobra kits do list an input bearing. The other may just need shift fork and or adjustment. Under heavy load accelleration (autoX starts) It will not shift into 2nd gear. On the street it's fine. There used to be a couple members who ran straight cut gears in the KM132. Sure, no synchros wouldn't be ideal for the street, but it will take a lot more torque before flexing and causing gears to rapidly disassemble. My trans may as well have a zipper on it as many times as I've swapped them ... I digress 😄

Indeed it is. We all love these old beauties and do what we can to keep them on the road

Just looking over the schematic for my 86. There is a common ground for all tail light funtions. You said the lights work, so that can likely be ruled out. I would grab a meter and a buddy. Have someone hit the brakes and see if you have power to the tail light connector

I assume you have checked the fuse. I vaguely remember something about the hazard button, but it's been too long. Not sure without looking at the schematic. You can find that on starquestgarage.com If I remember then I'll take a look tomorrow too. Otherwise, it sounds like the car is progressing very well! I'm sure there are plenty of people who would like to see that .stl file 🙂

I agree with Kev. Get a mechanical gauge and then you can watch pressure in real time. Or go all out and intall an electrical unit and mount he gauge inside permanently. That's what I did. Usually the FPR either works or it doesn't. Seeing it bleed off over 10 minutes sounds just fine to me.

I would absolutely to a compression test. It is quick and then you will know. No cotton candy smelling exhaust really sounds like it's condensation. Does it clear up after a quick drive? You said it doesn't smell of anitfreeze so I assume it doesn't smell like oil burning or super rich either? Is there oil in the turbo inlet and/or charge pipng? I had a similar issue with a smashed valve guide seal. Ran fine and cleaned up a lot after a little drive. Every cold start was smokey and a quick decell also caused a poof. Since yours has had no work and it hasn't done this before ... that's the interesting part. My problems are usually self induced 🙂

Unfortunately that becomes more true every day

That looks fantastic! I have been using nothing but Mother's forever. I also have a friend who drives truck and tells me the Zephyr is superior. Maybe it's time to give it a shot! .... Maybe one of these days I'll finish sanding the clear and buff my new paint job too ... that silly Porsche thing I bought has taken a lot of my time, but I digress.

I have broken plenty of those and pickle forks doing the same job on not just SQs. With something like this I usually go get rental tools from the local parts store. Then there is no worry about breaking them 😄 Getting that out of the knuckle can be difficult. Even with a pickle fork I would heat it up, get some tension on it, then smack the side with a ball peen. After letting it soak in PB blaster or your penetrating oil of choice overnight. It doesn't need to be super hot. Just enough to help break it loose. Getting the pitman arm off the box was the one that really gave me issues.

It is definitely one of the more frustrating jobs. I changed out my steering box 3 times with "rebuilt" units before finally sending mine off to Red Head Sterring gears about 10 years ago. If I never have to pull that with the engine in the car again, it will still be too soon! You got this! 🙂

I had no idea there were NLA. Also did not know that the Mitsu part came with the bracket. I replaced mine with a Wix many years ago while re-using teh stock bracket. I'll have to watch the auction now lol

Glad to hear you got it off. Those can be a real PITA

Get a ball joint or a small 2/3 jaw puller on it tight. Then heat, a lot. Smack the side with a ball pean and it usually comes right off. Don't be shy