Couth'nize Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) First things first, a word of warning, it's currently at it's rough stage so attempt this at your own risk even if this work for me it may not work for you. I did some research, but not thoroughly enough to justify this will work on other cars, but it does work on mine using stock 1986 sensors. This will work great if you have a 1986 Starquest that runs good in stock form. I will edit or update as I go along on this project. Here is the PIN out on the stock ECU harness: Ignore Pin 4 (if MS) as I use the factory sensor because the FIP computer that I modified did not have a built in MAP sensor. Also ignore PIN 12. http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/1074/23896528.jpg Here is the MS external wiring diagram with the factory ECU harness PIN number corresponding.http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3572/19556131.jpg Since I'm using PWM to control the TWO INJECTORS and I cut the resistor plug and tied all three wires together. http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/944/91383342.jpg Here it is installed: http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6988/21842809.jpg Here is what Megatune looks like at IDLE, warmed up, on stock sensors. http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6242/97947052.jpg I like to thank BOHO for his generous donation of FIP computer, because I'm just another broke butt car enthusiast that want to play but can't afford the good stuff. I try me best to cover this as smooth as possible as I'm new at this. The reason why I post this on the MPI forum is because with just an intake, I'm already there. If anyone see a flaw in this please let me know asap so I can edit accordingly. It's late, I'm tired, I can't write to save my life, I'll proof read it at work tomorrow. Please feel free to ask me anything. Lastly....ENJOY. Finally...just got done putting it all in the case. http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9461/75351036.jpg Here's the MS board I'm doing for a friend '87 Starion, note the tech conditioning wire.http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5155/0001230.jpg Edited August 22, 2010 by Couth'nize Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstar88 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 wow!! good stuff right there man!! some one get this guy another ms system so he can do this to an 88-89!! Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) 106 is your air temp at idle? thats kinda high isnt it? btw, what you have accomplished is very very cool man. good job Edited October 29, 2009 by jahjah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 106 is your air temp at idle? thats kinda high isnt it? btw, what you have accomplished is very very cool man. good job I'm trying to see about using EasyTerm to fix the air temp. When I'm done with the '86, I'm moving on to my '89. It's in its rough form right now, I'm working on putting all of this inside the OEM case for a clean factory look. I drove the car around the neighborhood for 45 minutes going up and down hills constantly with no issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 real cool man, i was thinking your KPA may be high for idle... but you have TBI.... so i'm not sure what normal KPA is for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 This plug and play will work best on 84-86 because they have air temp sensors and MAP sensors. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 This plug and play will work best on 84-86 because they have air temp sensors and MAP sensors. -Robert If the wiring schematic is the same for those years, than yes it should work. Check out the new pic on the first post down bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxzillian Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Looks good! The MS should fit in a factory case just fine. You'll just have to trim the edge of the board a hair to make it fit. The hard part will be using some angle aluminum to tie the transistor heat sinks into the case of the ECU so it has proper cooling. http://maxzillian.com/starion/msecu2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Looks good! The MS should fit in a factory case just fine. You'll just have to trim the edge of the board a hair to make it fit. The hard part will be using some angle aluminum to tie the transistor heat sinks into the case of the ECU so it has proper cooling. Looking good yourself, I mean your MS of course.....is yours for the '88, '89 cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Nice job Couth, you have some talent. Mine does timing control too using the factory signal from the dizzy, you have to gut the ignitor and stuff it with a VR conditioner circuit and knock circuit. Max, did you ever get the isc control circuit using the RC servo working? Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Thanks for the compliment guys. I just hope that this shed some light for those that think if it can be done. I'm really leaning toward a true Plug-n-Play with minimal changes to the factory setup....the only change that I've made so far is the Resistor plug, the OEM Resistor pack is still there. The best thing I like about this is that I can swap out to the factory computer with a quickness. If time and money allow my next move would be to bring my old thread out (Budget MPI, Mazda intake,yadayada...). I'm just gonna take it slow and learn as I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 are you running an fip ecu or an ms?in the first pic below it looks like an ms v2.2 board while the 2nd board is an fip board. http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4962/46180271.jpghttp://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9461/75351036.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxzillian Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Looking good yourself, I mean your MS of course.....is yours for the '88, '89 cars? 1987, actually. Not a whole lot different than how it'd be setup for 88 or 89. Originally mine was going to play with the TBI setup and do coil control. Now it has expanded to full MPI and individual coil control. There's a number of extra wires I need to run, but for the most part I'll be reusing and modifying the stock harness, hence why I'm sticking with the stock case and connectors. Max, did you ever get the isc control circuit using the RC servo working? Scott Sadly I'm going to MPI so I don't know if the circuit will truly work or not. I am considering wiring it up to my ISC just as a proof of concept for those that want to do a TBI plug and play. I just haven't taken the time to do it yet. Ulrich and I have been talking about making a plug and play for his car so there is some hope left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmandsm Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Man excuse me but GOOD s***!!! i like it sorry i love it GREAT JOB!!!! I always loved these cars wanted one for years and got 3 at the same time now it is like all in or nothing I am going to attempt this on my 88 conquest with a modified tbi after my intake is done of coarse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Why do you say that hooking the tach signal up straight to the negative side of the coil would burn up the ecu? That's false, I and many others have done it that way with no problems what so ever. I do applaud your efforts to make a plug and play set up though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) Substock, it is an FIP computer but I change it to MS-I form, so it should not be any different. I got both the MS and FIP, I just show the capacitor in the MS because I had to do that to show that that's what you got to do if you have trouble getting the Tach signal. Scotty Dont, when I splice directly to the Negative side of the coil, the Resistor on the Coil circuit got hot...and I mean really hot...when I first got the FIP computer from BOHO that was one of the component that went bad on it...even after I converted to MS form...it still got really hot...thus why I caution it. If you hook yours up directly on the negative coil, place your finger on that Resistor to see if it's hot. R10 on the V1.01 and V2.2 board. When I hook it up to the OEM coil circuit(don't really know whats it called yet) the Resistor did not get hot at all. Maybe it's just the FIP computer? I'll have to triple check this compare to the MS. I may have doubt myself, but I'm pretty darn aure I double check everything....sorry if this gets confusing. One last thing...I can plug in either one(MS or FIP) and it will run just alike, because I have both of them setup the same.I'm using the old school FIP because of ease of tuning....I'll be using the MS for my MPI setup later. Keep the comment coming.... Edited October 31, 2009 by Couth'nize Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Ok well here is the situation with tach signal from the negative side of the coil (straight from megamanual.com) "For triggering off the coil negative terminal/points: Install and solder R12 {390H-ND, 390 Ohm, ½ watt, orange-white-brown}. This is installed between the resistors you have just been installing and the CPU socket. This resistor should be mounted roughly 1/8" (2mm) above the surface of the PCB. Also, the value of this resistor may have to be changed if you trigger from the negative side of the coil depending on application - start with the supplied value, and if gets hot while the engine is running, then increase the value, in steps, up to 10K (like 470 Ohms, 560 Ohms, 680 Ohms, 1K, ...), or even more in some applications (consult the MegaSquirt Forums list for advice). However, do not adjust this resistor on assembly, unless you have a good reason to do so." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) Ok well here is the situation with tach signal from the negative side of the coil (straight from megamanual.com) "For triggering off the coil negative terminal/points: Install and solder R12 {390H-ND, 390 Ohm, ½ watt, orange-white-brown}. This is installed between the resistors you have just been installing and the CPU socket. This resistor should be mounted roughly 1/8" (2mm) above the surface of the PCB. Also, the value of this resistor may have to be changed if you trigger from the negative side of the coil depending on application - start with the supplied value, and if gets hot while the engine is running, then increase the value, in steps, up to 10K (like 470 Ohms, 560 Ohms, 680 Ohms, 1K, ...), or even more in some applications (consult the MegaSquirt Forums list for advice). However, do not adjust this resistor on assembly, unless you have a good reason to do so." Okay, that's off the V3 Meagasquirt, I'm on V1.01 so the Resistor is R10. I did step up to a 470 Ohm Resistor and it was still hot....so I gave up and tap into the OEM coil circuit (tin box with black and white wire next to the coil) to run much cooler. Anywho, this is a good subject here because trying to get a clean Tach signal can be a pain. Experiment, experiment...... Edited November 1, 2009 by Couth'nize Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 way to go couth....glad you are having some luck with it. I'm going to put a distributor back in my car this weekend...see if I can get it going... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted November 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 Got tag and insurance so I went for a longer drive today.....50miles round trip tuning on the fly. I play with the accel enrichment while I was at it and I'm getting it close to perfect. Next on the list is massaging the VE table.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MainstreaM Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 When you get that done, I got another MS project you can work on. Kane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted November 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 When you get that done, I got another MS project you can work on. Kane Got heated garage? Will work for food and beer. I'm going over to Fausto's sometime next week to do his. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted August 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Here we go....custom fuel rail,still on the stock '86 sensors and FPR (testing purposes).....purr like a kitten, even without the turbo hook up, she's still a beast (test drive around the block). http://a.imageshack.us/img816/4319/0821001944a.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 wow man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MainstreaM Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Impressive. Saw it running today. Kane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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