wide block or narrow block GM auto trans adaptor
Posted 07 October 2008 - 09:29 PM
I built a coupler from aluminuim just to test the fit, the adaptors I build for guys is built from 4341 steel
I used a standard chevy flywheel with a reduction gear starter in the first few that I made,later I cahnged to a Toyota starter from an R 22 engine to hold the cost down
you can see the assembly on you tube at
Posted 07 October 2008 - 09:34 PM
88 Conquest, White with Maroon Interior 5-speed. (Bought with Seize Engine and hasn't been touched since)
Posted 05 November 2008 - 11:22 PM
My only concern w/ the starter shown is if you have the stock intake manifold (narrow 4G63), will it still fit?
and its kind of hard to tell, but can you change the starter without dropping the trans?
I'm very interested in your setup. If only I didn't buy buschurs.
Edited by button, 05 November 2008 - 11:23 PM.
Posted 06 November 2008 - 10:43 AM
I can move the starter where ever you want, I have had many of other adaptor plates sent to me and I have changed them to use my coupler , but it dont look as clean as the original product and I include the top portion of the bellhousing face instead of cutting it off for more strength. I also leave in a lower skirt to accept a lower bolt pattern if desired, I am not a big fan of a 4 bolt bellhousing system
I am also not a big fan of custom 'one of a kind' stuff you cant get the day you need it, so I used all over the counter stuff for the GM flywheel/converter. The starter I change to the 84 through 92 Toyota starter because that was the universal reduction gear starter Jegs was offering @ $150.00 , and I just changed the gear on the Toyota starter for 15.00 bucks
Edited by Bill Hincher, 06 November 2008 - 10:47 AM.
Posted 15 November 2008 - 07:12 PM
Posted 15 November 2008 - 08:10 PM
Posted 21 November 2008 - 11:31 AM
The material this coupler s made of is 4310 steel, its heat treatable if desired, but I assure you , its not needed
I like to take great care in my demensions, i wanted to create the back of the original M/T flywheel for my coupler, to make absolutly certian on my centers
The holes are all drilled witha CNC bridgeport, first in metric for the Mitsubishi crankshaft and then in standard for the GM flywheel
I cut off a Mitsubishi crankshaft end just to allow testing in my lathe, I chuck it in exactly square before testing
with flywheel installed , the whole system is spun at top speed, the flywheel must spin true
all my adaptors come with the bolt pattern for the narrow block/wide block and second gen 4G63 engine blocks included
I used a toyota truck starter just because they are cheap, they are a generic reduction starter used on everything, all that is needed is a $15.00 pinion gear from jegs to use this starter
the starter fit is excellent, this is an OEM intake manifold for the 4G63
the adaptor mounting bolts are slightly reccesed because my adaptor plates are 3/4 not 1/2 plates, I needed the extra space to allow the upper apron for the bellhousing and I added an extra 3 mm in the bolt lands of the coupler to increase the horsepower the coupler could withstand
Posted 03 December 2008 - 12:48 PM
I will be adding some strength in the design by increasing the thickness of the plate to allow a thicker coupler. That way I can use the manual trans flywheel bolts instead of the auto trans crank bolts
these are designed to use the wide block or the narrow block mitsubishi engines
Posted 23 December 2008 - 04:10 PM
the difference in this kit is the thickness of the new coupler
the original auto trans flywheel bolt ( on the rt) was shorter and had a smaller shoulder surface then the manual trans flywheel bolt ( on the lt)
the bolt land was originally 3mm thick on the auto flex plate, I expanded that to 7 mm with this coupler, the new coupler has a 10mm thick to accomidate the manual trans flywheel bolt
the added thickness moved the flywheel back anoth 4 mm
this will be the new version of coupler
the starter depth will have to be adjusted
the original plate was 3/4 inch thick, the new one will be about 1 inch
Edited by Bill Hincher, 23 December 2008 - 04:39 PM.
Posted 26 December 2008 - 08:09 AM
Posted 03 January 2009 - 12:03 AM
'67 Mustang coupe - caged, tubed and LS turbocharged
Contact me for any of your cylinder head porting needs
Posted 03 January 2009 - 01:55 PM
the GM 400 is a bit different, the only change is I have to build in more depth for converter clearence, GM states 1/8 free travel on all thier converters except the 400 and that calls for 3/16, so I have to know what you want before I cut the adaptor
Posted 14 January 2009 - 11:12 AM
I have my source lined up for heat treating the couplers so these should be done quickly
These will fit the wide block and the narrow block but I must know whick bolt pattern you want before maching them, because they will only except one or the other
Posted 27 January 2009 - 11:58 AM
I have a few demensions to work out for depth and thats it
Edited by Bill Hincher, 27 January 2009 - 11:59 AM.
Posted 28 January 2009 - 01:04 PM
Posted 28 January 2009 - 02:15 PM
I been researching the needed clutch set up and it seems most guys agree that the LS1 is the preffered set up. The LT1 is a pull style throw out bearing, when the LS1 is a push style. The pull style was later changed back to the push style set up. Further more, most guys update thier LS1 with the LS6 set up, which GM sells a complete clutch with the flywheel included.
If I have to use the 168 tooth flywheel, I have to change the starter, I dont know if the starter pinion may hit the sidewall of the GM bellhousing
On all the aluminum flywheels I have seen,they cost $350.00 plus and some venders claim they need balanced to the engine and some say they are nuetral balanced for internal balanced engines
Posted 28 March 2009 - 02:57 PM
Posted 28 March 2009 - 06:03 PM
I looked at the option long and hard ( kinda like 3rd grade)
If you are serious about trying it, I will work with you but I think there were a couple things that had to be overcome
First was the flywheel had to be nuetral balanced and 153tooth, Chevy starters are mounted below the bellhousing, the wider flywheel with a high starter mount made the starter hit the bellhousing on the inside. the biggest problem outside of the flywheel demensions is the cost, for god's sake? $500.00 bucks for a flywheel? after you pay for a clutch and a starter , you got $1900.00 bucks in a $2500.00 car!
I would have to develop a different coupler because you need a pilot bearing for the input shaft of the trans. The fingers I use on my coupler are like a lathe chuck, they guide the convertor into center and the also center the flywheel, well, after the flywheel and the convertor are bolted in place at center, the fingers in my coupler are not doing any work, but in the T 56 option, the pilot bearing would be keeping the input shaft centered when the clutch was disengaged
Having said all that, it can be done , I would have to build a thicker adaptor plate and a two peice coupler to accept the pilot bearing
I will be building the wide block version of the R 154 next
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