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BC_99's steering coupler replacement U-Joint

Finally for sale!

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#1 BC_99

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Posted 12 November 2014 - 08:18 PM

Ok folks,

The time has finally come. I have installed one, and it went pretty well. My other test vehicle is Non-op at the moment but after the first one went so well, I feel confident enough to start selling the first run of these. The price is going to be $150 shipped in the con-US + PayPal fees. So that is $154.50 total.

All others please PM me for adjusted pricing to accommodate the extra shipping charges.

First to Pay is the first to Play. Simple as that. There are no dibs with these. I have 13 for sale right now and when they are sold, I will order more based on interest or I may offer a "deposit to guarantee your part" scenario. We'll see how it goes.

PM me for Payment info.

BC_99

Quick update guys and gals.

I can't stress this enough. Don't use a hammer or exert to much force on the end of the steering column when trying to remove the old stock coupler. The inner shaft of the steering column has a collapsible section near the end that can and will collapse. It's what it was meant to do in a crash.
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If you collapse this section, your new universal joint won't reach the box correctly.

Edited by BC_99, 30 December 2015 - 10:44 AM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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#2 BC_99

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Posted 12 November 2014 - 08:23 PM

Space reserved for future use.

Get one while they last.

Ok guys, I'm going to use this space for updates as well as a walk through on removing the old coupler and fitting the new u-joint as I go through the processes myself. I will try to take lots of pictures and give the best advice I can for you guys and gals. I'm sure some of you have been through the things I am working on so if you have any tips or advice of an easier way or something I am missing, please let me know so I can add that into this write up.

This will be your walk thru on doing this WITHOUT an engine in the car.

So, to start off with, my good friend Scotty Gibb was kind enough to donate a steering box for this project and that is where I will start. I parted a car recently and decided to use the drivers side of the firewall, front frame rail, and steering column mount area to use for a bench testing jig.

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I got it all cleaned up and remounted the steering column and put an OEM coupler back on it to make sure everything would line up properly for test fitting the new joints. Then I went ahead and installed the box that Scotty sent me and tightened it all together.

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Ok, This is what you guys and gals will be starting with sort of. Obviously it will be much easier on the bench with no engine in the way and all of the old grease and grime cleaned off of everything, but it will give you a good base to start from.

So here is our OEM coupler. Yours will likely have a rubber boot covering it. Pull that boot back out of the way and this is what you will see.

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Ok, for starters, take this bolt loose on this collar.

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Remove the bolt and slide the collar down over the steering box input shaft like so.

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Then you will have to take these 3 bolts/nuts out to let the steering box slide away from the coupler. You may have to also remove the steering link from the pitman arm, but Im not sure about that as I don't have that hooked up to try.

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Once you have the steering box separated from the coupler, its on to the Coupler removal. Start by removing the lower snap ring that keeps the gold colored ring in place. A very small screw driver or pick works well for this.

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Then the gold ring should just slide off of the coupler and reveal the ends of 2 dowels that hold the main coupler body on to the inner ring.

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Now, these dowels are just pushed into a hole on each side and need to be removed with a good strong magnet. However, I learned after fighting with one for hours that there is a spring inside of the coupler that puts pressure forward on the whole assembly to keep it all held in tight. So, you will need to push the coupler towards the firewall to take the pressure off of everything to remove the 2 dowels. It takes a few minutes to get the feel for it, but when you get the right amount of pressure, they will just pull right out with a decent magnet.

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Get them both out and the main part of the coupler will come right off in your hands.

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And here you can see the spring I mentioned earlier that is down in the middle of the coupler.

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Now for the hard part. The inner ring is still there and yours will be covered in old sticky smelly grease. It will also have a longer pin through it holding it onto the end of the steering column. Wipe all of that old grease off of there as much as you can and this is what you should see.

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From here it is up to you...I don't recommend a hammer and punch be used at any point in this procedure. Exercise PATIENCE!!! You could easily bend the steering shaft and cause yourself a lot more headaches. However, this pin is a press fit! Meaning it fits with ZERO tolerance through the end of the column. So, it isn't gonna just fall out. I had to get inventive and make a special set of pliers to remove it. I will investigate whether or not they actually make a tool for removing these kinds of pins and if I find one, I will post a link to it here. But, here is what I made with some old c-clamp vise grips and some scrap metal and an old bolt and washer. With a little time and trial and error, I fabbed up a solution for myself.

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I know it looks pretty gross and medieval, but it works. You need a pin side to push the press pin out of the steering shaft (I used an old 1/4" bolt cut to length), and a loop or recess for it to pass through on the other side while still holding onto the inner coupler ring. (I used an old 7/16" large flat washer with a chunk cut out). I then welded tabs onto the ends of the washer where it was cut out to hang onto the backside of that inner coupler ring. (before that it just kept slipping off the ring).

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But, once I got through all of the trial and error, Success!!!

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You can see here how it works (inner ring not pictured) or at least get an idea.

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Now, back to the project at hand. You have a ring left on the steering shaft with no pin holding it, so just turn the ring 90 degrees either way and it should just slip right off of the end of the shaft.

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Wipe away the grease and you will be left with this shaft with an 8mm hole in the end.

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BC_99

Edited by BC_99, 17 November 2014 - 09:27 PM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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#3 BC_99

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Posted 14 November 2014 - 05:59 PM

So, now you are ready to install your new U-Joint. Here is what it looks like.

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Now remove that bolt and back those set screws all the way out with an 1/8" allen wrench, but keep them all in a safe spot.

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Locate the splined end that fits the steering box

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Now slide the new U-joint onto the splines until you can look through the set screw holes and see the detent ring where the old coupler lock ring bolt fit into it.

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It may be a tight fit, or you may have some splines that are scuffed up a bit. You may need to address that with a small file. If the splines look good but it still wont slide on, you may have to "persuade" it to slide onto the splines of the steering box. Here is what I use.

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Do not use a steel hammer!!! Use a soft brass hammer, or a rubber mallet or a soft plastic dead blow hammer like this one.

Now, Slide the other end of the U-joint over the steering shaft end and get it somewhat close to the hole in it and the shaft being lined up. It will be a tight fit!

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Slide the steering box bolts in the frame rail back through the box and start the nuts on them but do not tighten them down yet.

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Double check that the holes are still close to being in line.

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Now try to install the bolt. Again, it is TIGHT FIT!

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If it doesn't go in, you can rotate the steering to see if it needs to pry one way or the other.

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I do not recommend using a hammer to just drive it on home. If everything is left loose you should be able to eventually get it in. You may have to use a small screw type c-clamp to pull it on through, but be patient and persistent and you will get there.

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Now you can put the nut on the bolt and tighten it up.

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When tight, it will still have some space between the nut or head of the bolt and the U-joint body. This was the closest size shoulder bolt I could get in stainless steel for this.

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Now you can re-install and tighten up the set screws. I suggest blue medium strength Loctite on them, but that is your choice.

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Don't forget to tighten these steering box bolts when you have everything installed

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Also, one more little note, The entire steering column is adjustable front to rear. If you find that you just cannot make this fit, you may try loosening the 4 bolts under the dash that hold the column in place and that will give you about an extra 1/4" of front to back adjustment.

BC_99
Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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#4 BC_99

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Posted 14 November 2014 - 06:05 PM

Ok, now for a walk thru with an engine in the car.

Here is your OEM coupler

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Of course to you it will look something like this from beneath in a complete car.

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Not easy to see or work on, but be patient, The results will be worth the effort.

Take this bolt out and slide the collar down off of the coupler down onto the input shaft.

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Time to go inside the car. Start by setting the steering at center and removing the key from the ignition to lock the steering column as close to center as possible. Then move on to removing the drivers seat. Its only 2 bolts and 2 nuts, trust me, it will save you a lot of time.

Then go ahead and peel the cover back on that automatic seat belt and remove the bolt that holds it to the mount that runs along the upper door opening and let that seat belt retract into the console. It will be in your way too.

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Now it's time to remove the lower dash below the steering column. Start by removing these trim pieces. They should just pry out easily with a flathead screw driver.

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Then remove this the same way and unplug it.

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Then pull the hood latch lever out and unscrew it from the trim panel. There are 2 screws hidden up behind it.

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Then throw a blanket or something over the etacs and front seat studs that are sticking out of the floor and climb in there and lay down under the dash and take all 5 screws out that are holding the trim panel on. 2 of them will be behind the trim covers that you removed from the front of the lower dash panel.

Next you will need to remove all 5 screws that hold the steering column trim shroud on, from the bottom of it. Let the lower piece come off and you should see all of the wiring from the main harness to the column.

You will need to unhook the harnesses from the steering column. There are 5 of them in total, just disconnect them and move them out of the way.

Now you can remove the 4 bolts holding the steering column into the car.

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At this point you should be able to sit up and turn around and pull the steering column out towards yourself. Be mindful that it does go through a rubber grommet in the firewall and it may require a couple of sharp tugs to get it loosened up and moving.

Once you have it out, you can work on removing the old coupler on the work bench, however in my case, the coupler separated and I had to go back under that car to remove the lower half from the steering box input shaft.

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Now you can remove that rubber boot and you will see this gold colored ring with 2 snap rings holding it in place.

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Remove the lower snap ring and the gold ring should slide right down the coupler.

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From there you will see 2 pins on opposite sides of the coupler.

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Push the coupler towards the steering column and with a decent magnet, you can remove the pins. There is a spring inside the coupler that keeps pressure on these pins, so they will not come out without pushing the coupler straight in towards the column.

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Now the coupler should come right off and leave this ring attached to the steering column with 1 pin through the entire thing. It will be covered in nasty old grease, so wipe that off and you will see this.

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Now with this method, you can clamp that ring in a vice with the end of that pin sticking up and use a hammer and punch to drive it out.

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Then if you didn't break the ring by clamping it in a vice or using a hammer on it, you can turn it 90 degrees and it will slide right off

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Clean up the end of that shaft and it will look like this.

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Now it is time to install your new U-Joint.

So here is what you received.

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BC_99

Edited by BC_99, 15 November 2014 - 01:49 PM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#5 BC_99

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Posted 14 November 2014 - 06:06 PM

...
Ok, take the bolt out and back those 4 set screws out.

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Now slide that U joint over the steering shaft end and line the holes up.

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Some steering shafts I have dealt with have had some scoring on the end from that spring in the old coupler pressing into it for so many years and wearing a ridge into the end of it.

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So you may have to smooth it up with a small grinder, or dremel tool or some sand paper to be able to push the u-joint on far enough to line up the holes. Not to worry, with a few minutes you should be able to slide it on and line those holes up and slide the bolt right in.

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Don't be scared to use a persuader if it will go most of the way through, but not get that last little bit. I recommend using a rubber mallet or plastic dead blow hammer as they wont dent or score the metal in any way.

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Now put that nut back on and tighten it up.

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Now this is one of those personal preference things, but I found it much easier to get it back through that firewall grommet by removing the extra threads down close to the nut. It's completely your choice.

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Now, put a dab of Loctite on those set screws on the steering shaft end of the u-joint and tighten them down for that extra bit of security.

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Make sure that you have removed all of the old steering coupler from the input shaft of the steering box including that bolt lock ring.

Now, climb back into the car with your column and feed the new u-joint back through the firewall grommet. Patience is a must here so you don't tear that 25 year old rubber grommet.

The next bit will require an assistant.

Once you have your column pushed back through the grommet, you will find that it does what a universal joint is meant to do....it wobbles all over the place, and wont line up so you can push it in place.

So, get your assistant to sit in the car while you climb under and guide that splined end onto the steering box input shaft.

Remind your assistant to listen to your instructions as you are the one doing the steering and they are just there to hold the column in the car at a similar angle to which it would be mounted and to keep that plate that bolts it to the car in the right plane with the mount it will bolt to.

They need to push with constant pressure and you will know when that sucker is lined up correctly, cause it will slide on and make you smile knowing you are almost done.

Once you have it most of the way on, your assistant can return to whatever they were doing before you bothered them, and you can install the 4 column mounting bolts and then after you have them tight, climb back under there and Loctite and tighten the other 2 set screws.

From there it is all just a reverse of the interior disassembly. Plug everything back in and put it back together.

Congratulations! You now have reliable tight steering again.

BC_99

Edited by BC_99, 15 November 2014 - 01:51 PM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#6 mopar jon

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Posted 15 November 2014 - 09:51 AM

Looking forward to getting mine, and the detailed instructions are very helpful, great job.

#7 importwarrior

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Posted 15 November 2014 - 01:01 PM

Great writeup!

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#8 TexasQuest

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Posted 16 November 2014 - 09:02 PM

Very nice looking! One question though, how easy/hard is this with the brake booster and master cylinder still on the car?
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#9 BC_99

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 09:19 AM

Read the right-ups please. They explain everything.

BC_99
Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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#10 importwarrior

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 10:33 AM

is that a grade 8 bolt or not? if not should it be?

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

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#11 BC_99

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 04:52 PM

View Postimportwarrior, on 17 November 2014 - 10:33 AM, said:

is that a grade 8 bolt or not? if not should it be?
Here is the info on the bolt. It is stainless steel. I'm not sure that stainless steel bolts have a grade like mild steel bolts.

http://www.mcmaster....265a155/=umzu02

I will research it more.

I do understand your concerns, but I don't really feel like it is a crucial point though. As tight as all of this stuff fits together with the bolt in place, and the set screws tightened down, it is more of a fail safe than anything else. I will post up any further findings I can on it.

BC_99

edit:

Here is what I found on a simple search from Fastenal's FAQs.

Do Grade 12 bolts exist?

No SAE Grade 12 exists. On the metric side, there are no grades, only property classes. The highest strength property class is 12.9 which requires a tensile strength of approximately 1200 MPa and a yield strength of about 1080 MPa.

What's the difference between metric property classes and inch-series grades?

In the metric system, the strengths of different fasteners are broken down into property classes and each class uses the same numbering convention - a combination of two numbers X.Y. The first number represents the approximate tensile strength multiplied by 100 in metric units of MPa. The number following the decimal represents the percentage to multiply the tensile strength by to find the approximate yield strength. For example, for property class 12.9, the approximate tensile strength is 1200 MPa and the yield strength is approximately 90% of this value, or 0.9*1200 = 1080 MPa. The SAE grade numbers don't employ a similar convention.

edit2.

I also found this. Stating they are commonly considered the same as grade 5 bolts with 125,000 psi rating VS. a grade 8 bolt with 150,000 psi rating. I don't think any of us will ever come close to reaching 125,000 psi steering input to break one of these bolts.  

https://www.nutsandb...teel-grade.html

Edited by BC_99, 17 November 2014 - 05:01 PM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#12 mopar jon

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 04:52 PM

Got mine today, excellent workmanship, very high quality part, Thanks

#13 '87quest

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 09:55 PM

PM'd

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#14 importwarrior

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 06:00 AM

Thanks BC Greatly appreciate the information on the bolt.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#15 SOTTY

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 12:04 PM

What a nice piece of engineering , top shelf right there .
Winning at U.S hot rod and classic car shows with a Mitsubishi since 2009

#16 BC_99

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 08:18 PM

View Postimportwarrior, on 18 November 2014 - 06:00 AM, said:

Thanks BC Greatly appreciate the information on the bolt.

No problem. The bolt is just the option I provide you guys with. You also have the option of re-using the OEM press pin that came out of the inner ring and steering column. It was pressed in and will have to be pressed/punched out, so no reason it can't be put right back in if that is preferred by the user.

View PostSOTTY, on 18 November 2014 - 12:04 PM, said:

What a nice piece of engineering , top shelf right there .

Thanks Bro. I haven't forgotten about you.

BC_99

Edited by BC_99, 18 November 2014 - 08:18 PM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#17 BC_99

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Posted 21 November 2014 - 03:39 PM

Only 2 U-joints remaining.

When these last 2 sell, I will be figuring interest for another run. That run may require a deposit. Get them now while I have them available!

BC_99
Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#18 psu_Crash

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Posted 21 November 2014 - 08:47 PM

Outstanding Work!
I'll definitely be in touch when I get around to the gold car.
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#19 chassispuke

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 06:26 PM

Guys all I can say about this coupler is the best $$$$ I ever invested in my car. Took no more than an hour from start to finish on installation. Buy urs now before they're all gone. Thanx a million britt. Now the car drive like new again.

Edited by chassispuke, 22 November 2014 - 06:27 PM.


#20 BC_99

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Posted 22 November 2014 - 07:13 PM

Thank you. I'm very pleased that you are satisfied with it. Please, enjoy driving your car.

No U-joints remaining at this time. I will order the next batch on Monday. Please PM me for interest in purchasing one.

BC_99
Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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