OIL

[holeysocks]

What Brand of oil and filter does everyone use and why??

 

I am parcell Havoline or Gulf Pride and if it is a GM auto it gets a AC filter,if its a Ford it gets a Motorcraft, if its a Chrysler it gets a Mopar etc.

 

SORRY!!! I DID NOT INTEND TO CAUSE A PISSING MATCH!! I WAS JUST CURIOUS TO WHAT OIL AND FILTER PEOPLE RAN!!!! I WAS TRYING TO LEARN SOMETHING

David

Edited June 25, 2011 by holeysocks

[The Rabbit1]

mobil 1 and ac delco for the camaro, pennzoil and a fram for the quest. they are only street cars after all.

[misterdrifter]

Fram uses cardboard filter elements... >_>

 

 

 

Purolator and Castrol for all my cars

Edited June 24, 2011 by misterdrifter

[DieHARDmitsu.]

You're in texas and the temps get hot there, best to use a synthetic, Mobil 1, providing your motor has no oil leak. Purolator "pure one" is very good oil filter, has a scilicone anti drain back valve.

[Blue]

I always use PureOne filters, no matter what the car. And I always use Castrol in some form or fashion. My Conquest gets SynBlend, and my Saturn always got GTX High Mileage.

The Castrol line has more detergents in it than most other brands. I like a clean motor.

 

For oil though, if for some reason I can't find/get Castrol:

Mobil 1

Valvoline

and on the ONE track car I owned, it only got Royal Purple.

 

I refuse to use Pennzoil and Quaker state. And Fram filters are cardboard crap.

Edited June 24, 2011 by 87Blue

[Burton]

I use Mobil oil and gas products whenever I can, and will even go out of my way to get Mobil products.

 

 

More because numerous people in my family have worked for Mobil and that company pretty much built my family, and less because they are a superior product.

 

If I can't get Mobil for whatever reason, I try and go with Valvoline.

[Metric-man]

http://www.jegs.com/v/Trufilter/928

 

I'm waiting to finish an engine to use that filter.

 

 

 

I worked as a lube tech at the local Chevron.

 

We would get these dirty diesel one ton pickup trucks.

 

And they would spew smoke like a chiminny.

 

The first one I worked on I said,

 

(With all seriousness after starting it up and Driving it into the service bay)

 

"This truck needs more than just an oil change, it needs a new engine!"

 

After the LOF the assistant MGR started it up and I did the final inspection for leaks

 

I noticed the truck wasn't smoking at all!

 

So anything Chevron for diesel engines is my favorite but I like Castrol products

 

because they were recomended to my parents for their two Alfa Romeos both 4 cylinder one a 71' 1750 and the other a 73' 2000 Berlina

Edited June 25, 2011 by Metric-man

[carguygibby]

For the Conquest whatever synthetic oil/ filter(except Fram) combo is on sale at the local parts store.

The 300M gets Mopar oil filter from Walmart and Castrol Edge or Syntec synthetic oil.

 

Colin

[ESTurbo4]

My valve train would make a heck of a racket when the old engine in the Conquest would get hot. Oil pressure would be good and once it cooled it quieted. I tried all of the oils I could get my hands on. Full synthetic, diesel oil, diesel synthetic, regular oil, syn blends... My notable results: Royal Purple, Mobil 1 and Castrol full synthetic would stop the tapping for about 1500 miles then it would do it every time the engine got hot. Valvoline synthetic 20w50 kept it quiet well over 3000. I dont know if it's a better oil but it's what I use now. Recently I started adding a little bit of zinc additive to it based on advice I got from Lindsey racing. For filters I like Purolator Pure One or Wix/Napa.

[Coke]

My Conquests have ALWAYS gotten Castrol GTX oil. I used to run 20w50 in the summer, but I'm beginning to lean toward 10w40 as an alternative. Filterwise, I either usually get a Bosch filter, or if it's not available at the store I happen to be at, I'll buy a Puralator filter. I recently had to cut my Puralator filter apart and I found that the insides of the filter is made up of a paper-like fiber material. It seemed pretty durable. Plus...WHAT ELSE are you going to make a filter out of? I've never seen a cloth filter...so I'm figuring fiber-based filters are just about the only reasonable solution. That's what I run.

[mrvwbug]

My Conquests have ALWAYS gotten Castrol GTX oil. I used to run 20w50 in the summer, but I'm beginning to lean toward 10w40 as an alternative. Filterwise, I either usually get a Bosch filter, or if it's not available at the store I happen to be at, I'll buy a Puralator filter. I recently had to cut my Puralator filter apart and I found that the insides of the filter is made up of a paper-like fiber material. It seemed pretty durable. Plus...WHAT ELSE are you going to make a filter out of? I've never seen a cloth filter...so I'm figuring fiber-based filters are just about the only reasonable solution. That's what I run.

 

Yes, as I've been reading turbo charged cars are recommended to use a synthetic or at a minimum synthetic blend. I always use Mobil-1 or Castrol.

 

But someone please tell me what is the definitive weight oil to run in the summer? If it's already been posted (which I'm sure it has) please post the link.

 

I've heard the following:

 

15w-30

10w-40

And the infamous 20w50

 

Thanks All!

 

Jim

Edited June 24, 2011 by mrvwbug

[Indiana]

Delo 15w40

 

 

Normal driving I still just use 30w conventional

Edited June 24, 2011 by Indiana

[Skullzaflare]

i normally run mobil1 10-40, or 15-40 if the store carries it, i always use pureone filters

as of late, since i cant really afford anything, i have been going along with Advance sales

 

i noticed after using quaker state, the inside of my engine got alot cleaner

granted i change my oil every 2500 miles no matter if its synthetic or not

[mrvwbug]

A good read...

 

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

[Starfighterpilot]

Since Mitsu's new car free oil changes were used up in '88 about 12 mos. after I bought the Old Broad new, I have used Castrol GTX 10W-40 in the Winter months and 20W-50 oil in the Summer regardless of where I lived in the our great and beautiful USA.

 

However, 52,246 miles ago I switched to Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40 oil in the Winter and GTX Diesel 20W-50 in the summer. Why? Cuz I found out that it keeps particulate matter in suspension better than the plain GTX (even with the engine shut off) allowing the oil filter to scarf it up faster and keeping the particulate from settling down to the oil pan sump surfaces - forming sludge.

 

Plus, a couple of years ago when the Castrol GTX oils were changed to conform to the new API spec CF?/SM, that this API grade of oil has reduced levels of ZDDP (ZINC) which supposedly causes increased valve train wear. So I started searching for an alternative engine oil. I found that the GTX Diesel oil conforms to API SL which retains the ZDDP levels of past and therefore gives me insurance that the valve train won't wear out cuz of the lack of zinc in the SM oil.

 

Using the above Castrol oil types and the above noted weights/season over the past 23 years and 406K miles has allowed the Old Broad's short block to never have been overhauled since it was originally assembled at the factory. She still has the SAME oil pressures that she had the day I drove her out of the dealers lot, brandy new just off of the boat from Japan.

 

And my compression pressures are 132 +/- 2 PSIG acroos the 4 cylinders. The OEM factory 12A turbo, running 10.5# boost, lasted 230K miles before the oil seals wore out. The bearings were still in great shape (minimal to no play) and there was NO coke in the turbo's oil cavity

 

The Old Broad spent 1 1/2 years in AZ during 2 HOT (120 Deg +) Summers; 3 Summers in Tulsa OK at 100+ temps, trips too numerous to count, driving across the USA in 95 to 100 Deg heat across the South Western deserts, 100's of 1000's miles of city stop and go traffic in 90+ degrees heat with the AC on, my oil pressures never budged while running the "infamous" 20W-50 oil. I treasure the extra higher flash point of the GTX/GTX Diesel 20W-50 Castrol over the GTX10W-40/GTX Diesel 15W-40 oil cuz it keeps coking of the oil in the turbo's HOT oil cavity to a minimum which allows the turbo to stay lubed in even the hottest of weather under the harshest driving conditions with the AC on

 

I have religiously changed the oil and replaced the oil filter with a NAPA 1381 Gold (WIX) (with a Cellulose

fiter element which is better than cardboard or paper filter elements) oil filter https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=FIL1381_0192946804&An=0 every 2500 miles. Every other year, I have dropped the engine oil pan and cleaned the MINOR sludge out of it caused by the wearing of the timing and balance shaft chain guide's "plastic" chain contact surfaces.

 

Personally, I feel that the synthetic oils are a waste of money for the G54B T engine, cuz they won't get you any more bearing surface oil film insurance than the right weight of good old Castrol GTX/GTX Diesel/Valvoline dynosaur engine oil for the environment it's operating in.

 

DO NOT EVER START AND TRY TO BREAK IN A BRAND NEW REBUILT ENGINE WITH SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL REGARDLESS OF BRAND. YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS.

 

You guys that switched to Mobil 1 - how many oil leaks did you SUDDENLY discover that you had right after you switched over from the dynosaur oil. How are your crankshaft oil seals holding up? I switched to Mobil 1 on 2 American iron engines with clean and tight oil systems in the past and was sorry that I did. Cuz I suddenly had oil leaks all over the engine and the crankshaft oil seals started leaking like sieves. I'll NEVER use that oil again!!

 

So to you guys expounding the use of the exotic synthetic oils with their over priced cost, how many years of experience with the G54B T engine do you have to substantiate your use of those high priced oils and weights/time of year?

 

I have 23 years of DIRECT Starquest G54B T engine experience and many Starquesters here in GA know my car and how it runs and what the oil pressures and compression pressures are.

 

One Dirty Old Man's rant to the G54B T engine oil know it all's, based on my 27 years of experience (including 3 years of driving my '84 Starion ES) with the MITSU G54B T engine.

 

Do I know it all? Hell No!! But I DO know what has ECONOMICALLY AND SUCCESSFULLY worked with my G54B T engine for over 406,000+ miles.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited June 24, 2011 by Starfighterpilot

[mrvwbug]

Personally, I feel that the synthetic oils are a waste of money for the G54B T engine, cuz they won't get you any more bearing surface oil film insurance than the right weight of good old Castrol GTX/ Valvoline dynosaur engine oil for the environment it's operating in.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

Does this sound right? Does anyone else feel Synthetic oils are a waste of money? What about thermal viscosity breakdown? I would think regular oils would be susceptible to this?

 

I don't know it all either, but under higher loads I would think the synthetic oil would be the clear winner?

 

Any other points of view? Ken has alot of experience and I respect that!

 

Jim

[OPTIMUSPRIME]

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Images/Products/M1_15w50_top.gif

15W-50

Edited June 24, 2011 by OPTIMUSPRIME

[NotStock88]

why does nobody recognize the abilities of Amsoil products. I have been a loyal user, switching from mobile 1 oil and filter, for 5+yrs now and I am a VERY satisfied user.

 

I switched to mobile 1 synthetic oil when the motor had 40,000mi (original engine) and saw no leaks. Surprisingly, after using amsoil, the engine internals are now cleaner than what they were before when i was using mobile 1.

 

Man up, pay the extra dollars and KNOW what you are getting is quality. This car is my "baby" and I dont take chances.

[carguygibby]

why does nobody recognize the abilities of Amsoil products. I have been a loyal user, switching from mobile 1 oil and filter, for 5+yrs now and I am a VERY satisfied user.

 

I switched to mobile 1 synthetic oil when the motor had 40,000mi (original engine) and saw no leaks. Surprisingly, after using amsoil, the engine internals are now cleaner than what they were before when i was using mobile 1.

 

Man up, pay the extra dollars and KNOW what you are getting is quality. This car is my "baby" and I dont take chances.

 

I used to be an Amsoil dealer and agree 100% their products are top notch.

These days though, I have to get what I can afford but insist on synthetic oil.

I also STRONGLY DISAGREE with you guys who stick with dinosaur oil and believe it's a waste of money but that's your choice.

If it works for you stick with it.

Colin

PS Ken, I have used synthetic lubes in all the engines, transmissions and rear ends of all my cars in the last 14 years and have had ZERO leaks!

Edited June 24, 2011 by carguygibby

[Starfighterpilot]

I used to be an Amsoil dealer and agree 100% their products are top notch.

These days though, I have to get what I can afford but insist on synthetic oil.

I also STRONGLY DISAGREE with you guys who stick with dinosaur oil and believe it's a waste of money but that's your choice.

If it works for you stick with it.

Colin

PS Ken, I have used synthetic lubes in all the engines, transmissions and rear ends of all my cars in the last 14 years and have had ZERO leaks!

 

Ya know whatever works for you and you can afford the expense go for it!!! I know what has worked very well for me over the miles and years and costs significantly less with no sacrifice of engine longivity/wear.

 

In my above reply, #15 above, I'm just saying that you do not have to spend the high dollars for synthetic engine oil to get the same oil performance in it's harshest operating environment with a dinosaur oil, ZDDP levels and keeping engine oil particulate matter in suspension so it can be more easily filtered out.

 

Right now, in Atlanta, a quart of Castrol GTX oil costs $4.99. I have not bothered to check what a quart of synthetic oil costs............ but it's a hell of a lot more. Why spend the additional money to get the same results - if you have a clean and properly operating engine oil system? Switching to synthethic oil is NOT going to rectify any problems that you have with an existing below par oil system.

 

As for the Mobile 1 engine oil weeps, I can only go with my past experience.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited June 24, 2011 by Starfighterpilot

[carguygibby]

Local Advance Auto has 5 Quarts Castrol Edge and a Bosch filter going for $31.99.

Consider it will easily last 5000 miles before needing changed that's economical in my book.

 

Colin

[Starfighterpilot]

Local Advance Auto has 5 Quarts Castrol Edge and a Bosch filter going for $31.99.

Consider it will easily last 5000 miles before needing changed that's economical in my book.

 

Colin

 

I would not even consider using the Castrol Edge oil in the G54B T engine much less using it for 5000 miles to the next oil change.

 

How does the Bosch oil filter compare (smallest micron size particulate filtered, bypass and Anti-Drain Back Valve) to the NAPA Gold 1381 oil filter?

 

In other words justify your above statement's VALIDITY rather than just throwing out information that what will "work" for the Starquest's G54B T application. For How Long - Who Knows?

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited June 24, 2011 by Starfighterpilot

[carguygibby]

I would not even consider using the Castrol Edge oil in the G54B T engine much less using it for 5000 miles to the next oil change.

 

How does the Bosch oil filter compare (smallest micron size particulate filtered, bypass and Anti-Drain Back Valve) to the NAPA Gold 1381 oil filter?

 

In other words justify your above statement's VALIDITY rather than just throwing out information that what will "work" for the Starquest's G54B T application. For How Long - Who Knows?

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

I was showing you an example of how cheap it can be to run synthetic oil that just happens to be with a Bosch oil filter in this case Ken. I personally like Purolator filters, Mobil 1 and K&N too if they happen to be on offer such as the deal above. I have run all synthetic all the time first on my flatty Starion then my present Conquest with no ill effects changing at 5000 miles. Neither engine leaked or died! On my advice my brother Scotty switched to synthetic oil in all his SQ's and hasn't looked back. None of his engines have leaked or died! Also, like you, we have done a lot of cross country trips in these cars with no ill effects, leaks or G54B engines dying!

 

Why are you being so defensive? Just because you had a bad experience with synthetic oil does that mean it's bad for our cars? Uh, that would be NO. You want validity, here's some. I used to drive 50,000 miles a year for my commute from Macon to Atlanta. First in a 1990 Buick Park Avenue then a 1992 Mercedes 300E.

Quite often I would take the Starion just for a change too.I changed the oil every 5,000 miles, at that time using Amsoil almost exclusively. Neither car leaked or died! By the way, both the Buick and Mercedes are still running around with over 300,000 each on them and the new owners tell me they still run great!

 

I hate freakin' oil threads because it always ends up in a pissing match usually from someone who can't see past ye olde conventional dinosaur juice and me who knows the benefits of switching (IN MY OPINION!) to synthetic oil. Here's another good example for you Ken. My daughter runs a 2002 BMW 325i. Her recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles and that's with Castrol Syntec. If it's good enough for BMW it's good enough for me. Her car is now past 120,000 miles and she drives the crap out of it. Guess what? The engine doesn't leak and hasn't died.

Like I said before Ken, you stick with what works for you and I'll do the same for me.

 

 

FOR WHAT THAT'S WORTH

 

Colin

[strang3majik]

Shell Rotella and a Napa Gold (WIX) filter. Rotella still has the zinc additives in it which other oils don't since modern roller motors don't need them, and Wix filters flow better and are of great quality.

 

I don't know if many of you are familiar with the LT1s, LS1s, etc...but, they are known for having low oil pressure when they get some miles on them...well, the guy at the GM dealer recommended a WIX filter...made a pretty notable difference. Since than that's all I use.

 

But, if its a newer roller engine with new oil seals (synthetic likes to make leaks ), Mobil 1 synthetic all the way. I believe there is a reason a Vipers warranty is void if anything else is used.

Edited June 25, 2011 by strang3majik

[Starfighterpilot]

I was showing you an example of how cheap it can be to run synthetic oil that just happens to be with a Bosch oil filter in this case Ken. I personally like Purolator filters, Mobil 1 and K&N too if they happen to be on offer such as the deal above. I have run all synthetic all the time first on my flatty Starion then my present Conquest with no ill effects changing at 5000 miles. Neither engine leaked or died! On my advice my brother Scotty switched to synthetic oil in all his SQ's and hasn't looked back. None of his engines have leaked or died! Also, like you, we have done a lot of cross country trips in these cars with no ill effects, leaks or G54B engines dying!

 

Why are you being so defensive? Just because you had a bad experience with synthetic oil does that mean it's bad for our cars? Uh, that would be NO. You want validity, here's some. I used to drive 50,000 miles a year for my commute from Macon to Atlanta. First in a 1990 Buick Park Avenue then a 1992 Mercedes 300E.

Quite often I would take the Starion just for a change too.I changed the oil every 5,000 miles, at that time using Amsoil almost exclusively. Neither car leaked or died! By the way, both the Buick and Mercedes are still running around with over 300,000 each on them and the new owners tell me they still run great!

 

I hate freakin' oil threads because it always ends up in a pissing match usually from someone who can't see past ye olde conventional dinosaur juice and me who knows the benefits of switching (IN MY OPINION!) to synthetic oil. Here's another good example for you Ken. My daughter runs a 2002 BMW 325i. Her recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles and that's with Castrol Syntec. If it's good enough for BMW it's good enough for me. Her car is now past 120,000 miles and she drives the crap out of it. Guess what? The engine doesn't leak and hasn't died.

Like I said before Ken, you stick with what works for you and I'll do the same for me.

 

 

FOR WHAT THAT'S WORTH

 

Colin

 

Very well said Colin.

 

You have presented the facts and your experiences with synthetic oils to back up your statements.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN