ESTurbo4

8" Speakers have very punchy mid bass, at least any of the ones I've had or heard. They don't seem to produce the low thump especially in a small box. You might try getting a speaker ring for the 10's and just mounting your speaker free air, using the trunk as your box so to speak.

Wanted to update this in case someone in the future searches this topic it will have a conclusion. First off thank you all for the help I appreciate it every time. To anyone trying to set up a single pulse cam sensor with a 36-1 crank wheel on a Haltech, you need to know; the ecu has to see the home signal (Cam Pulse) from 0-180° before the missing tooth passes the crank sensor for cylinder 1's compression stroke. The ecu doesn't look at the cam sensors angle just that it pulses before the missing tooth on the compression stroke. All the angle information the computer needs is provided via the crank wheel. So phasing it is simple and that is why there is no calibration settings in the software aside from sensor type & trigger edge (rising or falling). Got mine running and idling good on full sequential injection! I am happy with the smoother engine performance, not that you can't achieve a smooth and powerful engine with batch or semi sequential. For me and my intake though, it seems so much better on full. Thanks again and good luck to anyone trying to run this setup.

Ok so you're saying look at the pattern of the crank sensor vs the cam sensor. Basically, I'd be looking for a wave/pulse from the cam sensor seven pulses before every other missing pulse. Makes sense, there are some trace/graph data bits in the software I'll look for something in there. If not I'll see if someone has a O-scope I can borrow. thanks again.

The Megasquirt manuals are so helpful, I used to run MS1 V3.0 Extra before switching to Haltech. I often go back and look at the information in those manuals. PSU - The method you mentioned for the MS is the same as Haltech describes to set up a crank trigger. If I set the ignition to "lock" @ 10° start it up and shine a timing light on the crank it does say 10°. However if I move the cam sensor around there is no change in the ignition timing. Scott - I see what you mean by the rising and falling edge, I've run into that before with the MS. The Haltech however, tells you to start with falling until you get close or if you already know better. I am unsure either way. Although, I will try and switch it to rising and see if I get a better result. Import - Thanks for the links I appreciate it. The trigger wheel is currently working and if I stay semi-sequential (basically batch injection divided by 2) I can drive the car normally. The cam sensor is only single pulse, I don't think this affects the crank trigger any way and if I try to run full sequential it dies. I guess what I mean is; how do I tell if my cam sensor is in the correct position? I don't see a way to calibrate it in the software. If anyone's ever installed that cam sensor in my pic on a Ford (the whole unit not just the sensor) you know you need the tool to align the sensor correctly. But when retrofitting any sensor how do you know if you have the sensor in the right position without a calibration button or method? The triggers since last home switches between two numbers, like I said. The manual says that it may do that when using a VR type sensor. I justify the numbers by: 70 triggers since last home sounds right 36-1 is 35 teeth 2 crank revolutions for 1 cam is 70 teeth. The 34 I relate to once in the Haltech forum, Matt (mod) told me that 34 is correct number of teeth because the Haltech doesn't count the tooth chosen to be trigger tooth, so 36 teeth, one missing and one more ignored is now 34. But how does that tell you if your sensor is in the right position? Sorry if this is confusing and choppy, its confusing just trying to explain my problem... ahh my head hurts. In some way I feel Haltech has dropped the ball on this one. They should have added a "Calibrate Cam Sensor" Button. Then life would be a little easier for me lol.

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Is anyone here running a cam sensor? I need help setting mine up... I cut a stock distributor down and made a Ford cam sensor fit on it. I welded a piece of 1/4" square stock to the shaft to get my single pulse. I have a 36-1 Mookeeh (Motronic) crank wheel and the car is currently running & driving. Here's the tricky part, for me anyway. In the Trigger settings you have "Tooth Offset" & "Trigger Angle", for the crank sensor alone I set, Offset at 2 and Angle at 50 degrees. So to add a cam sensor the manual says add the angle and offset together to get your "Home" or cam pulse angle. I install the cam sensor while the crank was at 7 teeth BTDC (each crank tooth is 10 deg, so 50 deg plus the 2 teeth offset equals 70 deg or 7 teeth). Then it says to check your work look at "triggers since last home" that number display switches between 70 & 34 when the engine is running. If I switch the injectors to sequential it stalls so I know something isn't right. Does anyone know how to set one of these up? The System is Haltech Platinum Sport 1000. The software though, looks a lot like Tuner Studio for MS. Thanks in advance for all the help.

ES is what some folks call me, short for Esteban (given in HS Spanish class) Spanish version of my name Steve. Turbo because I love turbos actually had this screen name on other forums before I even owned a quest. 4 because in that forum ESTurbo was taken.

I would buy the Genesis, I'd buy it now if I could afford to. However I'd rather the 2dr model in stick but either way they are nice.

I worked at Advance Auto for a few years then worked at a more professionally geared mom and pop type store. The Advance with the corporate backing made the employee powerless, clueless and broke. The mom and pop store gave the employee more everything. For example when I worked at Advance a customer tried to return a Pep-Boys battery (said Pro-Start right on it) I refused to return it and told the customer he had bought from Pep-Boys and to go there for his warranty. He insisted he bought it from Advance called Advance's home office and complained. I got written up for mistreating the customer, our store returned his battery for an Advance equivalent and also gave him a $25 gift card for the trouble. I couldn't believe it. The mom and pop store would back the employee up, if I didn't want to return something for whatever reason it didn't get returned. At the garage I run now we use small local chain store called Eastern, its a professional type place. I Rarely use Advance, Zone or Pep Boys (don't have O'Riely's here). But if I were to choose, I'd use Advance because I know what they stock and how their system works. I just look up the parts before going or calling then just give them the part number so they cant screw it up. Whats funny is at times they'll tell me they don't stock an item, I simply say try this number... suddenly they're dumbfounded when its on the shelf right behind them.

Met some great people who own these cars, in other states and home as well. Most of the people near me that I've met used to have the car but don't anymore. Still its great to meet people and even learn things from them. Haven't been driving my car a whole lot recently perhaps I need to get it out more often so I can meet some new folks again. I really like meeting people who have the car but don't know much about it. I feel like I can save them so much time and effort. I have even met folks who don't know about this site, don't have the FSM and have a hard time fixing anything on their cars because they can't find parts. I'm siked to share which bone yards have what and what I know about this and that. I'm glad this site exists to even virtually meet all of you.

I have a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 now I had a Megasquirt before that. So far I've done all my own tuning. While I'm no ace at it, I have been able to get it to run and drive fairly reliably with both systems. You're probably going to run into snags here and there with any setup, but the folks here can usually help you with them.

Red - Overtake You http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCfd6NJ65Fg Sevendust - Burned Out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RccDfN7RFIA

Got it, thank you. I currently use fuel cut for deceleration, but don't have O2 control enabled at all. When the maps were a bit rougher then now O2 control would try and "fix" what it thought was wrong. I wont re-enable it until my maps are a little better still. In another few logs or so I should have it. Thanks again for the help on idle.

I usually check this site at work and once a week we delete the internet files, upon doing that it logs me out of the "remember me" feature and I often forget to re-log back in. The only difference I've noticed is certain pictures require you to be logged in to view them. So, I am guilty of being one of those guests on occasion.

The AFR's from Aem and Haltech match, but most of time I read them directly from the Aem gauge simply out of convenience. The cold enrichment table could use some tweaking for sure. However, once warm it still wants the idle mixture to be rich but Scott is saying its normal then I'll just play with the cold enrichment and let it run rich at warm idle. I didn't wanna foul the plugs I know at idle they are not at self cleaning temp and are likely to foul in excessively rich conditions. Also accelerates the wear of the O2. What is an acceptable rich idle AFR in you're professional opinions? Thanks for taking the time guys I do appreciate it.

The car will only idle rich, especially when cold. I know when its cold you need some extra fuel but I think its a lot more than normal. The idle is on a Ford IAC controlled by a Haltech PS1000. Before I got the IAC to work I used the throttle stop screw and had to hold the gas pedal until it warmed up. Once warm it'd idle fine with the exception of being rich. It idles fine now on the IAC just the afr's are around the 12 mark hot. Before the IAC I blamed the lack of idle control and now I don't know. I tried timing down the idle advance to 12° and up over 20° with no noticeable change (Haltech has zero throttle timing and fuel settings that're just for the idle). If I tune the afr's to like high 13's into the 14's it wants to stall. When cold it wants the afr's around 11.5 or richer and sometimes smokes from all the richness. However, you can start it up and drive it right away and it will drive fine. Plugs are fairly new (less than 2000 miles) they are BPR8ES although after some searching the forum I ordered a set of BUR7EA11 (7031) as suggested to be the best option. Ignition is waste fire controlled directly by the Haltech. It doesn't miss or run bad unless I lean it out. Anyone have any insight? Oh the wideband is an AEM UEGO the sensor itself is probably getting tired but the occasional smoking cold seems to confirm its rich readings.

If you are using the stock tach you must remove the little buffer/filter in the engine bay. Follow the wire for the tach that used to connect to the coil -, you'll find a little box about 1 long 1/2 wide that then goes to a white connector. Remove that box and connect the vehicle side of the white connector to your tach output and your tach should work.

Thank you all for the input, the tool guy is supposed to lend me that Autel so I can see how it works. I'll post up my findings when he leaves it with me. Thanks again.

What I mean by limited, is the bi-directional control of the Genisys is limited. You'll look in like Mitchell/Shop key for a repair path and step one would say activate, for example, an evap solenoid. When you attempt to do this the Genisys sometimes with do nothing, fail the test or that particular test wont be found in the options. Another example is, I know there is a relearn process for cam crank correlation on some cars and sometimes in certain years that relearn wont be available in the Genisys. Also you can't always access BCM's, TCM's, HVAC controllers, or Anti-theft modules. Access to those is extremely important, at least around here, because of failure of VATS type systems causing the vehicles not to start is common. I've worked with the Genisys for years its a great tool for what it is. I was only wondering if for that same money I could upgrade so to speak with another brand. I am also unfamiliar with the open source units. I have heard this and that about them mostly negative but factually I haven't actually seen anyone use one. So its all hearsay.

I'm looking for a new scanner for the shop. The garage I came from used the OTC Genisys (both the old gray one and the newer blue non-touch one). Here, my partner and I are currently using Matco pocket scanners but they lack all the features of thier larger counterparts. Budget is low as we are a new garage and start-up costs have ate into the budget. So the $9,000 new Matco elite or Snap-On $8,000 scanner will be on hold for now. So, I was debating on the cheaper Autel Maxidas 708 or the tried and true Genisys. I know the Genisys is limited, very limited, but it can do enough to get by. The Autel I know nothing about, an independent tool supplier in the area suggested the Autel. He said that he sells that particular model in NY more than the Launch, Genisys or Autoboss. I just want the best bang for my buck obviously. Do any of you work with any of these scanners? Are they any good? Autel AutoBoss Genisys Launch

So get this, I decided to replace the spark plugs again (set number 8 or 9 on an engine with very few miles). Anyway, to test 'em out I also decided to turn down the boost. I took it out on the highway and let her rip. She incinerated the clutch, worse than ever plus the car sounded great with no ping. Before leaving I had asked my buddy to come and watch the computer screen to note any areas where I heard pinging, if any. During testing he said, "Dude, the trace is going off the screen!" I didn't know what he meant by that so carefully observing my gauges I see the boost gauge pin under load, gauge pins at 30 psi. Instantly I knew what I had done, I went the wrong way with the boost controller. "This is what happens when you're not paying attention," my buddy says. So I pull over fix the boost but the damage was already done. Not to my car but to my brain. Ponder this, how does a car that pings under boost even at just 16 psi eat over 30 without a so much as a puff of a exhaust smoke. Without changing any settings, same gas and everything but the plugs. It did it a number of times too before I realized my error. The pugs I installed were just plain old copper NGK 8's (BPR8ES), I've had this number installed before, I've had stock 7's, I had Bosch Coppers, Denso Coppers, Autolite coppers and various platinum varieties. I'm not sold yet as this scenario has played out before. One day she rips great the very next next she pings like a steel target on machine gun day. Just thought I'd share my story.

I did have the forged pistons with TBI. I started with HyperU's then blew that motor, now I have Weisco's and had TBI for a while with them. Didn't hear any piston slap. I have a S10 2.2 that sounds like rod knock when you start cold it but GM's are known for piston slap. My Map. http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2693/mapbb.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I have a new stock hydro cam Sealed Power brand I bought from Dad. The turbo is a T3/T4 eBay turbo. I'll get my map tonight when I leave work. Just a heads up, some have said this map looks aggressive but I've ran the timing pulled way back in boost all the way down to 1 and it still pings. It just runs hotter I guess from over retarding it. I also noticed when I drop a lot of timing all at once it will backfire, like going into boost. The current map is what I mapped out from the stock info I found in the service manual, I may be wrong with it though. I does however run a lot better out of boost with this map and when it does allow me to boost she rips good.

I guess its possible its a fuel injector. Although I did have this problem even with TBI, on TBI I was running two green injectors. I tried different combinations with a ported throttle housing, non ported, 52mm (Lower Shores) throttle plate, stock plate. Finally it ran a lot better with two black injectors and very low boost. That lead me to believe that it was in fact a mixture issue so loads of money and time later I have MPI. Still have this issue though. Injectors are Trickflow 72lb (756cc) injectors with low resistance. The injectors do not use a resistor with the Haltech PS1000 (link to my post in Haltech forum). I wasn't familiar with running low impedance injectors without resistors but I called in tech support and they told me just as the manual and forum did to simply hook them directly to the ecu and select low impedance in the settings. The regulator is an AEM and has a gauge in it. I could run a remote gauge I have one in my box here at the shop. You guys think too much fuel would cause a ping or ping like sound? I'll tell you one thing, once this car is figured out I'm gonna be a legend in tuning cars with all the info I've learned and am learning. lol. Thank you all for taking the time to help me.

Timing is controlled by the Haltech which puts a signal to a MSD dual channel ignitor (6302) that fires an EDIS style coil pack, waste fire setup. The ignitor is a dumb module not capable of timing its also not a captive discharge unit like a 6A or other standard MSD style boxes. Before the Haltech, timing was controlled by a locked distributor firing the coil directly from the MegaSquirt ecu.