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Techboy's 88 Starion SHP Save ....


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#661 techboy

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 10:41 PM

Worked on installing the AEM Wideband today that I bought off Preludedude.  Unit was pretty much brand new - even came with the box, instructions, and "AEM" sticker.  Like I do with some of my posts I'm gonna make this "tutorial-ish" in case someone wants to copy.

First, I needed a place to thread in the O2 sensor attached to the wideband.  I had a fab shop add this O2 bung.  (Same pic I posted before).
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After I installed the O2 sensor and the bolted the pipe back up, I needed to find a place to pass the wiring harness attached to the O2 sensor into the cabin.  When I removed the AC during the restoration process I never had the "plug" for the AC line, so I already had the hole in the firewall.  Best part - it's right next to the downpipe where the O2 sensor is threaded in.
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Here it is from the inside of the car.
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Because the exhaust is right next to this location in the firewall, there's a TON of extra cable.
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Just to give you an idea - this is how much cable AEM gives you .... I'm standing at the trunk.
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So, in order to eliminate some the excess cable I cut it in half.
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There's 6 wires total on the AEM O2 harness.
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Stripped all the ends:
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Soldered everything back together:
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Shrink tubed everything.
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That takes care of the wiring harness coming from the O2 sensor.  There's a 2nd harness cable the powers the actual unit.  It contains 4 wires.
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You can see the white and blue wires are optional.  So I just wired up the red (power) and black (ground) for now.  I added a spade to the power wire so I can connect to power somewhere, and I added a ringlet to the ground so I could ground to a ground screw.
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When I took the carpet piece off the side of the radio console, I could see the stereo wiring harness.  Most aftermarket radio harnesses have a blue wire for AUX power.  I was pretty sure I hadn't used it for anything, and I was right.  It was just sitting there doing nothing.  (If you're running the OEM radio you'll have to probe and find a place to tap for power).
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So I just simply added a spade to the Aux wire and drilled a hole in the sheet metal.  Connected everything up.  (I also wrapped that spade connection in electrical tape).
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So here's the two wires ready to go to the gauge.
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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#662 techboy

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 10:59 PM

AEM Wideband post cont ....

I have spent a TON of time thinking about where I wanted to mount this thing.  I already have 3 gauges mounted above the radio.  And I really didn't want to drill into the dash or pillar or someplace where it would leave a permanent scar inside the car.  That didn't leave me a whole lot of options.  Luckily, Preludedude helped me without even knowing it.  He fabbed this bracket up and left it on there when he shipped it to me.

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I noticed sitting in the car and just staring the other day that using the bracket he left on there it would mount real nicely to the carpet piece on the side of the console.
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My thought was ... if I'm going to drill into anything, the side carpet that's held in with 2 screws is a lot better than a dash or something like that.  Marked it up with a Sharpie.
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Here's the best part.  The 2nd hole in the pic is actually already drilled.  So, if I would ever remove the wideband, even with a hole in the piece the carpet covers it pretty stinkin well.
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I used an interior bolt and small screw so that if someone bumps it with their leg, it doesn't twist.
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Here it is with the gauge test fit.
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Still had excess wire, so I zip tied everything up neatly.
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Reinstalled everything.
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The only thing I have to decide is if I should put a little wire loom on the exposed wiring you can see.  I'm really happy with how it came out though.  I have the car really tight against the wall on the drivers side, so I haven't seen it yet from the drivers position.  Hopefully it looks good from over there too.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#663 Preludedude

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 04:31 AM

Perfect location as now all the gauges line right up.  

Glad my ghetto bracket came in handy for you also...

How old is that pioneer deck? :)

#664 techboy

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 10:14 AM

View PostPreludedude, on 07 August 2020 - 04:31 AM, said:

Perfect location as now all the gauges line right up.  

Glad my ghetto bracket came in handy for you also...

How old is that pioneer deck? :)

I love that ghetto bracket!  Saved me a few minutes of making something!

Its pretty old ... but intentional. I got it off eBay years back. I was trying to find something that was early 90's w/ at least a CD player that would be close to period correct.

The OEM deck that was in this car was the most perfect one I'd ever come across since being into these. I wrapped it in plastic and have it in storage.

Edited by techboy, 09 August 2020 - 08:47 PM.

1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#665 Preludedude

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 10:40 AM

 techboy, on 07 August 2020 - 10:14 AM, said:

Its pretty old ... but intentional. I got it off eBay years back. I was trying to find something that was early 90's w/ at least a CD player that would be close to period correct.

The OEM deck that was in this car was the most perfect one I'd ever come across since being into these. I wrapped it in plastic and have it in storage.

I see. I think those 3000GT Units look great also if your aiming for period correct/stock look....

#666 techboy

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 08:27 PM

I totally agree and have considered buying a few of them here and there as they've popped up in the F/S section. But, they're a double DIN and I need something single to retain my homemade gauge cluster.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#667 TheDemon

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 03:58 PM

Those seatbelt releases look much better not being pink, but i think you need to take a hest gun to them then clear so as to bring the colors back out. Have you thought about the hvac relocation? Tends to look factory and lets you have double din radio and your gauges still 😉
- The Demon
89 Black Conquest TSI SHP 5-speed - Restoration
00 ford ranger trailhead
97 Red Talon ESi - RIP

#668 techboy

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 09:15 PM

So I think I may have gotten some insight into what was going on with my car end of last year.  I got my injectors back from RC Injection and the results were really interesting.  A little history ... prior to restoration I always ran OEM injectors, but I could always smell gas.  When I did the restore I sent my fuel rail out to Chad, had it machined for domestic injectors and post restoration I was running the domestics.  They ran well, but I had some hesitations under boost.  On a whim, I picked up some Trilogy injectors used last year mid-season and swapped over to them.  The car ran well for a bit, with no hesitations ... then I started all kinds of drive-ability issues that brought me to this point.

I don't know how easy it is to see these scans, but these are the results from the Triology injectors.  Both are sited as completely CLOSED.  Which, to me, explains why the car was stumbling and wouldn't stay running - it wasn't getting an fuel.  Now, it was spitting black smoke, which I thought meant it was running rich, so I'm thinking the ECU was trying to compromise.  Either way, it seems to make sense that poor injector behavior had something to do with the way the car was running.

The good news is, RC was able to clean the injectors and get them back to spec.
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The OEM injectors where under spec by a little bit, and they were able to clean them as well and bring them back to spec.
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While the injectors were out, I sent out a spare fuel rail to have powder coated since the only one I had coated was the modified Chad fuel rail.  
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I also ordered up a new TB rebuild kit.  I usually order the GP kit, but I couldn't find it this time around (I also didn't look very hard).  I ordered this Standard one ... but, it turns out I didn't need it at all.  RC sent my injectors back with all new o-rings on them.
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Here's the injectors out of the bubble warp.

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So I'm going to start by putting the car back together OEM.  OEM fuel pressure regulator and OEM injectors.  As you can see, I got options down the road if I wanna try switching things up again.  I got the Trilogy injectors and the domestics.

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And here we are installed back on the car:
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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#669 techboy

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Posted 12 August 2020 - 09:59 PM

I mentioned in my post about the IC piping that I was going to have to switch up the oil cooler lines.  I was planning to do this anyway, so I wasn't too upset about it.  I did a lot of research with the search button for part numbers and a lot of planning about how I wanted to do this.  So, after all that, here's what $142 later looks like:

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Here's my Parts List, I ordered everything from Summit:

10' -6AN Summit black nylon hose   (SUM-240610B)
(4) -6AN straight hose end   (SUM-220690B)
(2) -6AN male banjo fitting 16mm x 1.5  (VPE-11525)
(2) Fragola 16mm to -6AN   (FRA-460616BL)

I measured the OEM lines first.  The longer line is about 5' and the shorter line is about 4'.  That's about 9', which is why I ordered 10'.

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The first thing I did was take the new line and trace the old OEM lines.

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A little trick I learned years ago was to wrap the line in electrical tape before cutting it to reduce the fraying.

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Here's the 2 lines cut to length.

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Next I separated the straight -6AN fittings and fit each one to the end of the hose.  If you've never worked with AN lines before you to the thread the hose into the fitting so it's flush with the fitting inside.  It can take a little bit of elbow grease to make that happen.

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I put a little oil on the threads and then used my -6AN wrench to thread the fittings back together.

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4 fittings installed, 2 lines built.  Hopefully I can install these tomorrow.

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#670 techboy

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Posted 16 August 2020 - 09:55 PM

Finished up the install of the oil cooler lines the other day.  Real happy with how they came out.

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Installed the 16mm fittings down on the oil cooler first.

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When I moved up top to the oil cooler to install the banjo fittings there I made an interesting discovery.  The crush washers from Vibrant did not fit over there own fitting.  I've gotten a lot of things from Vibrant over the years, always very impressed with there stuff, but they definitely dropped the ball on this one.

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So, I stole the washers off the OEM banjo fittings here.  Normally I wouldn't do something like this, but they were new when I bought OEM banjo fittings off Dad 3 years ago during the restore and haven't seen a ton of use, so I'm thinking they'll be OK.  I'll have to keep my eye on them for leaks.

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Tighten down.

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At the oil cooler end.

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Because I widened the holes down here for the new IC pipes to pass through the edges were sharper than they are from the factory, so I sliced a piece of vacuum tube and put it on the opening to prevent the lines from rubbing.

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I used the original oil cooler bolt-down location on the frame to fasten the new ones in places with some zip-tie art.

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Here's a shot from overhead to give you an idea of how I ran the lines.

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#671 techboy

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Posted 16 August 2020 - 09:56 PM

Never thought I'd be one of those guys at the car show who had mirrors showing off the underside of their car, but dang, I'm starting to get there.  Might have to invest in some mirrors soon.

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#672 Turbo Cary

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Posted 17 August 2020 - 04:08 PM

Car looks amazing! Clean work!

#673 techboy

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Posted 18 August 2020 - 07:43 PM

Its getting very close ....
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#674 techboy

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Posted 18 August 2020 - 10:08 PM

I was hanging out in the garage today at one point and I accidentally discovered another problem ... but I got lucky and came up with a quick solution.  

I was looking at my coolant overflow bottle and realized it wasn't going to sit in it's original location w/ this IC piping.  You can see it's hitting the IC pipe and it's about 2 inches away from where it's supposed to bolt to the vacuum pump.

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So I removed the mount bracket and started thinking.  My first thought was to drill out these spot welds and slide the mount point to the left and reattach.

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But .... then I noticed if you flip the bracket over 180 it rotates the coolant bottle by 90 degrees away from the IC pipe.

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First thing I had to do was round off the bottom of this bracket just a little bit b/c it was hitting another bracket on the lower bumper.

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The next issue was when you flip the bracket the top holes line up fine, but they're not flush like they should be.

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I just used a hacksaw and put some relief cuts in so I could bend the flange forward a bit.

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Much better now.

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The last thing that needs to be address is the coolant bottle only slides on this bracket from the top-down.  It's slightly tapered, narrower at the top and wider at the bottom - so it won't go on when it's flipped.

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A few minutes on the grinder to make them parallel and you can slide the bottle on either way.

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Two things I love about this quick little mod: If I ever wanna go back to the OEM location, all I have to do is flip it back over. Second, it looks totally factory.

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NOTE: This worked for me b/c my A/C has been removed.  If you still have A/C I don't think this is gonna work with a condenser in the way.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#675 tux

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 10:26 PM

You can take out the trans without removing the interior!  You just need to reach into the tunnel and undo the bolts through the hole to the interior :)

#676 techboy

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Posted 24 August 2020 - 10:09 PM

Today's goal was to get the turbo installed and build new coolant lines for the turbo.

When I got this 14G from StarQuestRescue he told me the stud was stripped.  So, for a while I ran with only 2 exhaust studs w/ nuts - but I wanted to correct that with the car all apart.  I tried every trick I knew over the last few months to get that thing out and just could not.  I finally gave up and gave it to my father in law.  He said in 41 years of being a mechanic he's never had one that hard to get out.  Yikes.  But, he got it.   This is the bad stud w/ a nut welded on.

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And here's a new stud.  That's much better. :D

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Turbo mounted back in place with fresh gaskets.

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I was gonna run the OEM hardline on the coolant feed line, but I had this banjo fitting laying around, so I figured what the heck, let's give it a shot.  I think they are leftover from my Eclipse.

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I ran some Fragola Push-lok hose from the pump to the banjo.  I'm a little concerned about the rubber line being so close to the turbo heat.  We'll have to keep an eye on that and see if it holds up.  Might have to just switch back to the OEM hardline.

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Now, for the return line I got some new goodies.  First, for the turbo I picked up this banjo fitting from JEGS. Since I had trouble with the Vibrant fitting for the oil lines, I figured I try something different.  Seems to be a decent fitting and the crush washers fit!!

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On the thermostat housing side, I went with a whole different thermostat housing.  I was doing some searching on here a few months back and found this old thread about using a Hyundai Sonata themro housing with an NPT fitting.  I have find the thread again, I'll link it here when I do.  Anyway, this thing was like 8 bucks on Rock Auto and I like it so much better than both of the OEM styles that came on the Starquests.

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I did run into a problem though.  It must be a BSPT b/c I could not a get a NPT in but a few turns and it would stop.  So, I had to open it up a bit with a NPT tap.

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Then I installed this NPT elbow fitting I found at Home Depot.

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Here we are installed on the intake mani.

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Added in a 3/8 NPT to -6AN fitting.

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Now I can build a new coolant return line.  -6AN lines and fittings.

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I bought a 45 degree sweep fitting for the banjo fitting on the turbo kinda on a whim ... that ended up being a really good move.  Works perfect.

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Here's an aerial shot of the return line installed.

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So that's were we're at.  I have to install the intake and the rest of the IC piping and button up a few odds ends.  Gonna pick up some coolant on the way home from work tomorrow, finish up the details, and then hopefully try and start it for the first time in 9 months.

Here's to hoping.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#677 techboy

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Posted 26 August 2020 - 10:12 PM

Here's what happened upon trying to start the car:

1st attempt ... nothing happened at all. Turned out I forgot to hook up the starter.  Oops, simple fix.
2nd attempt ... sprayed fuel all over the windshield during crank.  Had to replace o-ring on injector.
3rd attempt ... cranks but won't fire.  
4th attempt ... adjust timing on dizzy.  Fired, but only ran weak for a few seconds.  Timing appears to be off by a tooth.

Found TDC, reinstalled dizzy aligned with markings.

5th attempt ... Fired, runs, but not super smooth.  Still does not seem right.  I think I may have overcompensated on the timing.  Going to have to play with it more on Sat and hopefully get the timing sorted out better.  The alignment of my dizzy has always been a little goofy.  It's not where my gut says it should be in order to get the car to run right.  According to the FSM the mark on the dizzy should be fairly close to center so you can advance or retard, but mine has always been "off" to the advance side, allowing me to retard, but not really advance.  Need to bust out the timing light and really dial it in.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#678 tsi_tom

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 09:36 AM

Are you sure the green injectors isnít running at idle?  Only the black injector should be used at idle. Unplug the green one and see what happens.
Engine
20 over forged pistons
Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project

#679 Jonathan

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 11:59 AM

Great work as usual. Just noticed that you are not far from where I used to live in Hanover, PA.

Keep it up!
Jonathan

#680 kev

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Posted 28 August 2020 - 01:42 PM

Oh wow.   How was it running?  Would it even idle?  

Definitely make sure the black injector is spraying.  May want to unplug the green once it fires, as indicated above....worth a try.  Check your spark plug wires.  As stupid as it sounds, I've mixed them up before.  Make sure they are firmly on the plugs and in the cap.  

As you said, timing is easy enough to check with the light but it's got to idle first.  

Wishing you luck this weekend.  Hopefully you get it straightened out.




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