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Techboy's 88 Starion SHP Save ....


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#581 techboy

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Posted 22 March 2020 - 09:33 PM

Didn't do a whole lot to the car this week, but I did do a few things.  I dug out a set of OEM injectors I had laying around and grabbed the Trilogy's I was using the 2nd half of the summer and boxed them up, sent them out to be sonic cleaned and bench flowed.  I'm very curious to see the results.

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Since there's a very real possibility I'll going back to totally OEM to try to isolate where my problem is at, I also dug out an old spare non-modified top hat I had.  (For those that don't know - I've been running a Chad-modified top hat with domestic injectors).  I'm gonna send this out to be powdercoated blue like the rest of my intake provided I can get it to my powdercoater.  They're really starting to lock things down in my area.

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And last ... I ordered a set of SS M6 x 1.00 bolts to use on my oil pan.  Nothing wrong with the OEM ones, just trying to clean/bling some of the little things I skipped over when I built this motor the first time.

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I'm planning to really start putting things back together this coming week, so I'll be posted some updates if you need some distraction. Plus, I like when you guys check over my work.  :D

Edited by techboy, 22 March 2020 - 09:35 PM.

1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#582 Jonathan

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Posted 23 March 2020 - 03:34 PM

Where did you send your injectors too? I might as well do that to mine.

Jonathan
Jonathan

#583 TheDemon

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 03:40 PM

Pm sent, got a pair of the emergency seatbelt releases for you
- The Demon
89 Black Conquest TSI SHP 5-speed - Restoration
00 ford ranger trailhead
97 Red Talon ESi - RIP

#584 techboy

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 04:22 PM

View PostJonathan, on 23 March 2020 - 03:34 PM, said:

Where did you send your injectors too? I might as well do that to mine.

Jonathan

Sent them to R/T Tuning in Montgomeryville, PA.  They just started offering the service as they just purchased the equipment to be able to do it.  There's another place many of the guys on here use, I forget what it's called - I'm sure someone will chime in with the name of it.

Before I drop my top hat off, I wanted to tap out the BSPT to a NPT so I can run a fuel gauge in there later.  Took a few minutes to do that yesterday.

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If you use a healthy amount of cutting thread oil it'll help clump the shavings so they don't fall down into whatever your working on.

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All done.

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Test fit the NPT fitting.

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Seems to be all good.  Just need to get the piece dropped off at the powdercoater now.

Edited by techboy, 24 March 2020 - 04:23 PM.

1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#585 techboy

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 05:10 PM

I decided this morning I wanted to start by working on the rear main seal.  That meant I needed to get the motor off the stand.  Luckily, I just broke down an old workbench I had laying around a few days ago, so I used the scrap 2x3's from that to whip up a quick little stand.  Here's what I made ... not pretty but it worked!

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Between my wife and I we were able to lift it off the stand and onto my temp new work stand.

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I started by removing the engine stand mount so I could clean up the old gasket material on the seal housing.

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Scrapped off the all the junk and gave it a once over with the whizzer.

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Next I cleaned up the real seal case.

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Dug out the new seal.

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Installed the seal.  If you've never done before it takes a bit of patience to make sure it's going in straight.

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Put the oil ring back in, making sure the hole was down like the FSM instructs.

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A thin coat of Blue RTV on the block.

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Installed the rear main seal housing.  I spent WAY too much time looking through the FSM engine section looking for the torque specs on these bolts and could not find them.  I eventually gave up and just snugged them down.

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Took a break for lunch. ;)
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#586 techboy

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 09:16 PM

After lunch I started working on getting the rest of the bottom end back together - particularly the timing components.

I installed new gaskets in the oil filter housing.

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And reinstalled the housing.

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Next it was time to tackle the timing chain side of the block.

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I started just by scrapping off all the old gasket material and cleaning it up with brake clean.  Then I reinstalled the timing chain guides.

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Now it's time to set the timing.  I turned the crank so that cyl#1 was at TDC.

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When you do that, the crank should end up with the woodruff keys at about the 3 o'clock position.  You can see the timing mark on the sprocket just below the woodruff.

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Next I wrapped the timing chain around the cam gear making sure to line the indicated link with the timing mark.  I highlighted mine with paint marker so it would be even easier to spot.

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Then I did the same thing at the bottom.

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It can be a little bit tricky dealing with the tensioner when your trying to slide the chain on, so a little trick I learned from working on these motors before is to use a small block of wood with a lip on it to hold the spring loaded tensioner back.

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The whole thing will just slide right on then and you can pull the block of wood.  The G54B has got to be one of the easiest motors to time.

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My balance shafts are eliminated, so there's no need to time the secondary chain.  The oil pump is simply driven by the rotation of the crank.

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One word of caution, there is a woodruff on the oil pump.  It pops out pretty easily if the gear isn't lined up perfect when your sliding it on. Make sure 100% it's in place and you don't lose it.  Otherwise the gear will just spin on the shaft of the oil pump and you'll have no oil pressure.  It's in the notch in the picture below.

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Just have to install the chain guide and the bolt on the oil pump gear (which gets torqued to 50 ft-lbs).

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With the timing out of the way it was time to put the front case back on.  Just needed to clean up the old gasket material a bit.

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That's better.

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I lightly torqued the front case down, and then called it quits for today.

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Tomorrow I think we'll get the head installed.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#587 obsolete

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 12:32 AM

Good stuff. FYI, if you can't find the factory torque spec for a specific bolt, there are generic guidelines based on the size of the bolt and thread pitch that will get you in the ballpark. Fastenal has a nice calculator here: https://www.fastenal...rque-calculator
Buy the ticket, take the ride.

#588 techboy

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Posted 30 March 2020 - 11:07 PM

I was full steam ahead on getting my motor all back together when I ran into a little snag.  I was ready to put my head back on when I realized I didn't have any ARP Moly lube left.  The ARP head studs call for an 80lb torque spec, but 120 with 30W oil.  I've read on some threads on here that at 120lbs the washers will cut into the aluminum head.  I'm not a fan of that possibility, so I ordered up some ARP moly lube.  But, it's not gonna be here for a bit ... apparently moly lube isn't "life essential".

Anyway, this is going to seem like a total change in direction, but I've wanted to install all this new front suspension stuff for a few years, but I was always driving the car or working on some other project - so I figured why not.  I started digging around the garage and getting together all the things I have.

I got powdercoated strut housings, new KYB's, freshly coasted springs, new dust shields, all new bearings/seals, new lower knuckles, and MK1 front lateral control arms.

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I started with the passenger side.

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Gotta get this guy out.

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Not too bad.  Not all that many bolts holding this thing in really.

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As soon I got the housing out of the way I was looking at the tie rods ends and noticed they were pretty shot.  I definitely need to order all new tie rods ends.

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Some views with everything removed.

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Really wish I had an extra 300 bucks laying around to replace those lower control arms with the MK1 units.  I might pop them out quick and at least press in new bushings.

I was really shocked at how nasty some of this stuff was.  I guess after 30 years ... I skipped some of this during the restore, so it's good to be going back over it.

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Since school's not exactly in session right now due to the coronavirus, he's gonna go to the school of Dad and learn some more practical skills.

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Got the driver's side out too.

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Drivers side empty.

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Whole bunch of old crap removed.

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Can't wait to get all the new stuff installed and how clean it all will be.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#589 techboy

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Posted 30 March 2020 - 11:14 PM

Spent some time cleaning up some stuff later on today.

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A wire wheel makes quick work of all that gunk.

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Looking much better now.

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Hoping to drop these guys off tomorrow to be sandblasted and Epoxy coated before I install the new lower tension rods.

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#590 TheDemon

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 12:02 AM

every time you post on here i am reminded how clean your car is... i have a long ways to go to get on that level.
- The Demon
89 Black Conquest TSI SHP 5-speed - Restoration
00 ford ranger trailhead
97 Red Talon ESi - RIP

#591 Jonathan

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 08:22 AM

Looks really good. What intercooler are you running? I like you used the stock piping.
Jonathan

#592 techboy

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 08:57 AM

View PostJonathan, on 31 March 2020 - 08:22 AM, said:

Looks really good. What intercooler are you running? I like you used the stock piping.

Jonathan ... that is just the stock IC. I'm going to be upgrading that and some other things very soon. Stay tuned.

Edited by techboy, 03 April 2020 - 09:44 PM.

1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#593 Jonathan

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 10:11 AM

Strange. Must be the angle because it looks like a thicker core.
Jonathan

#594 techboy

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 09:28 PM

You can tell some businesses are slower than others during this.  I dropped these off yesterday, picked them up today blasted and epoxy coated.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

Posted Image

#595 techboy

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 09:43 PM

Waiting on tie rod stuff to show up from RockAuto, so I put a stop on the front end work and went back to work on the engine.  Decided to put the oil pan back on since the rods and crank are torqued down.

First I needed to put the pickup tube back on.  I decided to NOT go with the new o-ring in the Fel-pro kit since there have been documented problems with it in the past.  Instead, I'm reusing the o-ring from Coke that was already on my pickup tube.

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Two nuts. Installed.  Easy enough.

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Now I had to clean up the oil pan.  I still had oil in it from when I pulled the engine back at Christmas and all the old gasket material to clean off.

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Got the gasket off, time to clean up the lip.

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Cleaned up the lip and put on fresh RTV.

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Gasket.

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Clean-up the bottom of the block quick.

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Dug out my new SS hardware I mentioned before.  Very excited about this.

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Bolted down the pan.  You'll notice on the far right a black bolt.  I couldn't use the SS everywhere b/c they are 12mm long.  There are few locations on the oil pan where the bolts aren't through-hole, so they need to be shorter so they don't bottom out in the hole.  There I used some of the OEM 10mm length bolts.

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Bolted on.

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#596 techboy

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 09:59 PM

I realized today I have a problem.  Once I start taking things apart and cleaning them up, I can't stop.  Not a good thing when you're trying to put a car back together.

I decided to take the lower control arms off ... b/c why not?  I ran into some trouble, the bolts slide through from the back of the car with the nuts on the front.  The nuts spun off just fine, but the bolts don't slide out b/c they hit the steering linkage / tie rod ends.  I'm not sure if mine where flipped at some point, or if Mitsu put them in that way from the factory, but it seems pretty stupid to put them in that way when they could easily slide in from the front with the nut on the back.  I eventually got them out, but I'll be reinstalling them the other way.

Anyway, here they are.

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Look how nasty these are.

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A few minutes with the wire wheel.

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Just for fun ... I thought I'd take a pulled back picture so you can see what I see right now ... :blink:

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#597 Jonathan

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Posted 04 April 2020 - 09:27 AM

Nice work might as well do it will you are there.

P.s love the towels under the car to keep the garage floor clean :)

Edited by Jonathan, 04 April 2020 - 09:27 AM.

Jonathan

#598 techboy

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Posted 04 April 2020 - 10:05 AM

View PostJonathan, on 04 April 2020 - 09:27 AM, said:

Nice work might as well do it will you are there.

P.s love the towels under the car to keep the garage floor clean :)

Those actually aren't towels.  One of my best friends works at a vinyl sign company and they get these huge rolls of vinyl that they just throw out the leftover on the rolls.  He passes them on to me every now and then and they are great for laying out on the floor. They are paper-thin and they don't let any fluids penetrate through.  Like you said, keeps the floor totally clean.  Although I worked for years on the floor bare underneath so it's a total mess anyhow.  One of my future dreams is to install a permanent checker pattern floor on the workshop area.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#599 techboy

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 10:47 PM

I gonna look back it this thread sometime in 20 years from now and realize how confusing it is. LOL.

So, while I'm still waiting on tie rod parts to come in, I decided to keep working on the engine since the Moly Lube showed up. I had the block decked when I built this engine the first time.  Still looks really good.

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Don't forget to cut away the excess gasket material between the front case and block before you put the HG down.

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Next thing I did was spray brake clean in all the head stud holes and blow some air in there to clean them out completely. Look like new.

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Time for the gasket.  Using the Fel-Pro composite.

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Ah, yes, the Moly Lube.

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Lubed the threads.

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Threaded them in.

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Time to unwrap the head from the plastic.  You can see those jet valve eliminators just poking out the bottom.

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I lubed the washers and top nuts as well.

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Had a little help doing the torquing.  Today's math lesson ... we learned all about ft-lbs and torque sequencing.

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Dropped the valve cover back on for now just to keep dust and dirt out.

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After all these years I still love the powdercoating work on this valve cover.

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1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#600 SFBMX88

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 11:42 PM

Iíve read that a couple people broke the heims on those MK1 strut rods.  You may want to look into it!  If anything, you could just buy US made heims to replace.




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