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10mm exhaust studs


TexasQuest
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Any recommended place to get metric 10x1.25 studs? Got a stud that fell out of the head on the exhaust side, and the hole is too large to replace with another 8mm oem stud. Anyone use these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-M10-1-50-M-8-1-25-x-38mm-Double-End-Step-Studs-Steel-Plain-/121342282319?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c40904a4f&vxp=mtr Edited by TexasQuest
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I used a Helicoil kit on an older head and it seemed to work well, think I grabbed it at Autozone.

It works as a solution but probably not AS permanent as re-tapping and using a larger diameter stud.

 

Just a thought.

 

-N8

Edited by natallica
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i did all the top studs and the closest to the firewall. 5 total

3 m8x1.25for the lower the 10 mm will be trouble on the lower 3

 

m10 x 1.25 studs

 

http://www.ctsturbo....tud-3604-5.html

 

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=7&search=10+x+1+25&show=45&page=1&cat=181

 

 

Lock Nuts

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/M10_1_25_Exhaust_Lock_Nut_Copper_Plated_Steel_14mm_p/pm33630.htm

Edited by importwarrior
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I've ordered stuff from McMaster that BC_99 recommended above. They always have good stuff. Usually if I'm in a bind for odd hardware I swing in the local Fastenal and see what they can do. Usually they can order just about anything.
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Another thing to think about, they don't just fall out. There's a reason they've stripped and rounded. Wouldn't hurt to stress-relieve your manifold, and make sure the weight of your exhaust is supported front to back.
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I had the same problem.

The funk lock helps a lot.

I also had the muffler shop support the entire exhaust with no weight on the turbo down pipe. I can unbolt the down pipe and the bolt holes for the down pipe flange are basically centered on the studs. No weight on the turbo. I do have a flex section now too.

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Here s how I do it....I make it 3/8 -16 threads .. Get 8 long set screws made out of 4130 chrome moly steel( heat treated) ( mac master car 1.75 long ).... ..Why does it have to be metric ?? The stripped out hole is .305 to .315...A .3125 dia drill is the tap drill for 3/8-16 dia threads....So I use the manifold as a drill jig...Use the 2 farthest studs and tighten 2 nut on...Open top 3 holes of manifold to .3125 dia and 1/8 deeper in head,witch will be .750 deep from face of manifold....Tap those 3 holes ....(bottom tap too if u have a bottom tap)....Try to get .625 depth threads..Put in 3 long set screws and tighten up with nuts on....Then u only have to remove the nuts from the first 2 and do the same to the bottom 3 holes and back to the first 2 that u started with.. In the bottom 3 holes u wont be able to use manifold as a driil jig make sure u drill straight and tap straight !!!!!!!! or manifold will have trouble fitting on....get 3/8 -16 exhast nuts with hardened washers at pep boys... Next u have to open holes in the manifold and gasket to .406 dia ,So that there is .015 thousands clearance on each side of set screw studs to let it move when hot!!!!!! .(holes in manifold are .390 dia and .350 on center holes to aline manifold on head ...u can open all holes to .406 dia or only open the center holes to .390 dia and the rest to .406 dia. Edited by markhansenconquest
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