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Help installing Distributor


Squrlsquash
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got timing marks lined up

unsure what marks to line up for distributor

 

advice?

thanks in advance

 

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/TIMINGGURR_zps6aba25d0.jpg

Edited by Squrlsquash
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Looks right, you may have to turn that over like 60 times to align them again, and it might be the crankshaft link you are looking at., If you are going to pull the head now, just mark gear and a link with a paint marker. Be sure you have the little shelf for the gear to sit on.

 

Dad

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There's two plated links. One for the crank and one for the cam. I can't remember how many rotations it takes for the marks to line up correctly again, but it's something in the 30-40 range I believe. Like Randy said, just mark the link and gear and you should be fine.

 

Fyi...if the crank is at TDC, the cam will have that dowel just before 12 o'clock. If it's the opposite side at just before 6 o'clock, then spin the crank around one more time.

 

- Charles

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cam gear rest is missing on this motor - thinking i can stick a shim between the timing gear and the chain guide to hold it up while i pop the head off.

 

anyone have tips on how to change the head gasket like this without screwing up the timing?

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If you can find a string or wire small enough to fit through the dowel oin in the gear, you can feed it through at tie it to the hood. You'll have to undo it momentarily when pulling the head off and then retie it, but that's one way to do it. Definitely will need more than one person for that.

 

- Charles

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Unrelated

Anyone know where to pick up tach signal and 12v switched on the instrument panel? cant find a useful pinout and have a ways to go before i can start her up and poke around with a multimeter

 

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7214_zps79d407ea.jpg

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You can pull the cam gear out too, or wedge a block down where the shelf goes, between the chain to keep it from falling in after removing the gear.

As long as you put the head back on with the cam in the same place, it really doesn't matter if the chain slips off of the crank gear and then doesn't go back on exactly the same. You can always pull the chain back on the crank gear.

You will need to push the tensioner plunger back in before you can get the cam gear back on.

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pulled the head, used a zip tie to pull up the chain slack and don't believe the crank gear could have jumped a tooth

 

dark yellow staining on the spark plugs and nice wet deposits on the combustion chamber usually means burning some oil?

probably just because i haven't done any long trips with it yet, might just be granny syndrome... valve seals looked dry, but there was some oil/fuel on the pistons

 

 

my plan is to pop it together and do some serious driving to break the deposits loose

 

sound good?

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ok while the head is off,, put a cam gear holder back on the engine block,, if you have not got one,, post and some of will get an used one for you , that holder is worth it's weight in gold dude

 

now checking cam timeing , turn engine until the cam is in time,, then check the crank pully timeing not before

if the cam is in time the crank pully mark will be with in a couple of degrees of tdc , one tooth on crank will change

the mark 9 degrees at the crank , rotatr the engine 2 complete turns , back to tdc , this time watch the mark on crank

pully after making sure the cam is right, install the dist

 

dist will have to be in to set it to tdc #1 after the cam is set and befor the valve cover is install'd ( so you can watch the drive as you incert it )

 

chain can be walk'd around gear one tooth at a time is need be , it's all very easy and simple to do

note do not have pistons at tdc when installing head,, back the block up to btdc say 10 degrees , you can rotate it to tdc just before timing the cam this insures no piston to valve interference

Edited by Shelby
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Would the valves hit the pistons if it was off a tooth? turns over fine without binding

 

Otherwise i have to pull the timing cover to reset the chain

any problem with putting it in gear to hold the crank and pulling the crank bolt?

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Okay, no more mr. nice guy

i want this done, and done right

 

can i set the timing marks without taking off the oil pump gear?

should i pop the cam gear off to line up the chain, then rotate the crank/cam to match?

i'll be back at it tomorrow, any tips would be helpful

 

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/timingbits_zps14eb388e.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

There is no timing mark on the crank gear... i have another crank gear that does have the mark, should i swap the gears out? or just put a mark in the same place on the un-marked gear?

 

To do that id have to pull the oil pump crank gear. can it be pulled and reinstalled without removing the oil pump?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Turned engine over a few more times and the marks all lined up like the picture in the service manual

which i believe is TDC cyl 1

 

how do i line up the distributor?

do i line up the dimple in the gear with the mark on the shaft?

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You line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the shaft before installing on the head and the gear will turn slightly when it comes in contact with the cam gear.

Make sure the adjustment bolt is at the center of the adjustment hole when installing the distributor onto the head!!!

 

Jerry L.

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This is where the dimple ended up when I installed the distibutor. Indiana had a good picture too but his page isn't working anymore.

 

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u467/tsi_tom/The%20Missouri%20Project/Distributor%20rebuild/distributorandcamtiming_zps523a9395.jpg

 

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u467/tsi_tom/The%20Missouri%20Project/Distributor%20rebuild/distributortimingmark_zps5a0efcad.jpg

 

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u467/tsi_tom/The%20Missouri%20Project/Distributor%20rebuild/rotoranddistributoralignment_zps368b6c53.jpg

Edited by tsi_tom
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