Squrlsquash
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Everything posted by Squrlsquash
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Received got a big order of drill bits and have a few kits ready to go right now. But for for the next batch (FYI), the hardened steel shoulder bolts i've been using so far have gone up alot in price I am unsure if i can find a cheaper supplier or if i should move to slightly lower grade bolts I will test them out on my car, the graphite bearings should prevent the pin from wearing anyways Will keep you posted. Glad I was able to share this fix with you guys, makes our cars a bit less "jalopy-ish" and a bit more solid- haha Thanks
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Sent- Thanks screemin FYI temporarily out of drill bits, new batch on their way If you order a $25 kit (w/ drill bit) it will just be a few days before i can send it- and i will PM to let you know $20 kits unaffected and still ship immediately Thanks for the interest and orders
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On its way, Thanks Tracking number in paypal info
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Glad to hear it wasn't a product problem Reminder: Have several kits ready to go price includes pp fees, shipping, everything Install can be done without removing clutch hydraulics fyi- only have to screw off the clevis arm from the clutch master cylinder, as detailed in instructions
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Ah psu, i have a trick for pressing them in I've found channel locks to be quite helpful with this job Need a piece of metal or something with a hole just larger than 12mm to put on the inside (or outside) of the clevis arm from the clutch master cylinder So when you press in the bearing it has someplace to go (without bending the clevis arm) Still haven't decided if its easier to press in the bearings from the outside of the clevis arm in, or press from the inside and have the extra bearing easier to cut off on the outside. I will take some more install photos soon to help with install issues also, Clicking when the pedal is disengaged? What is hitting what?
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aknorthstar, i can check costs based on your zip just didnt want to get stuck with more shipping costs than i was anticipating maybe i should clarify that i'd just like to check the price if its going outside of the lower 48, it may be the same. Thanks for the interest and the comments
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http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/Mobile%20Uploads/B4B7AA79-DCD5-45D6-9C4B-E4AD6FC8671D_zpsy4ueswry.jpg I'm back and have several kits ready to go Comes with a new pin (polished, hardened steel -grade 12.9- with new washers and clevis clip) Also comes with 3 graphite finished bearings, (2 for the clutch master cylinder arm, 1 for the pedal itself) This pin WILL NOT wear out like the factory one, and these bearings can be replaced if they ever round out. Kit prices (shipped lower 48) right now: $20 for everything but the drill bit $25 with drill bit Send (AS PAYMENT) to Aaronwork4@gmail.com Please include in paypal memo: Sqc name What you're ordering Name & Address To install: Remove the pedal pin Remove pedal Mark position of lock nut (behind the clutch pedal adjustment) leave locknut in place (maybe dab with loctite to prevent movement) Unscrew the Clevis Arm (round part with rubber bushing inside that attaches Master Cylinder to the Clutch Pedal) Take Clutch Pedal and Clevis Arm to your workbench Drill new holes with 12mm OD bit and press in supplied bearings Use hacksaw or grinder to remove excess bearing that goes through the other side Test fit and Reinstall. Comments, Complaints & Tips always accepted
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as mentioned above, leave the crank and girdle in as it helps prevent block from warping (maybe only applies if on a stand with weight supported only from one end) spray with oil and wrap, you can get mover's plastic wrap rolls at u-haul and probably lots of other places. Or trash bags.
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interested
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I'll take the head pending some info
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parts,,,exhaust manifold,,,3" exhaust,,and more
Squrlsquash replied to quikconq's topic in Parts for sale
interested in flywheel, pm'd -
shroud and clutch fan available?
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will take the water pump pulley shipping to 92130?
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Figuring on electric fans, put together the tep kit on my road car that cycles the fans on/off full power based on the temp switches. probably junkyard fans, read once on here that subaru fan motors fit on our fan blades? I think i'll make my own setup with a relay for each fan wired separately and a switch for each that bypasses the temp input to be able to turn them on if there's an issue. On another note, washed and began putting together my spare head and noticed that the roller rockers i bought from a member on here a while back are too wide. The roller section is wider than the factory rockers, the two rockers next to each other on each cylinder touch. Looks like more than half a mm needs to come off each rocker where they touch, (right where the pin that holds the roller is) Anyone else experience this? can post a pic if needed. Maybe i got the wrong rockers?
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Will decide on fan situation later on then. Junkyard and aftermarket electric fans are easy to come by, as are clutch fans from monteros. Will be on a rwd starion btw Fyi minis have mechanical fans on the crank with the radiator on the side of the motor, only difference is sideways radiator placement
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My plan for the first event would just be to change up at about 5k I doubt any power is to be had above that anyways Have springs i can check tension on and swap out if valve float issues become apparent Will get in touch, Tankbob Thanks for all the comments, Think i'll be tracking down a clutch fan and shroud setup off a montero at the junkyards next
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Removing choke all together since warm-ups in socal (especially at daytime track events) will always be warm enough. I'd like to lighten the engine, port, and change pistons- but i don't think its possible with the budget For the first go-around i'm planning to use a stock motor without opening it up. If the car works out and survives the race, future would probably involve higher compression pistons from an NA g54b and a lightweight flywheel. Checking craigslist for $500 cars that are as complete as possible (manual, late, wide-body) in SoCal Ideas for the project and craigslist alerts welcome
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Working up a manual actuator for the choke, any thoughts? http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/CB5BC120-272E-4C50-BAEF-701C5984F1A6_zpsqaxsnj3p.jpg
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the carb i have is a knock off weber, no ecu or anything I'm going this route because its clear that people with more time and money have failed to make a turbo/injected starion finish more than a few laps. and because its what i've got in the garage I could swap to higher comp NA pistons- do they have the oil squirter rods like the starions? or would i need to swap pistons onto turbo rods Besides that, cooling is my main problem. Worth trying to flush and reuse a stocker radiator? or ive got some barely used volvo aluminum radiators, alot smaller, but could put them back to back and plumb in series manual trans should be okay with the abuse? just dont bang-shift for 24 hours straight? diff/tt okay with new fluid? tt need to come apart for re-grease? Thanks -Aaron
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Ha shelby, pretty sure a degree of naivety is necessary to do much of anything with a starquest Really doing this to get into wheel-to-wheel racing cheaply and just for fun. I know losing the turbo makes most on this forum cringe, but i don't want to chase electrical gremlins and be overheated in the pits the whole time. -I figure a wideband o2 is the best way to tune the carb? -Replace EFI fuel pump with a low pressure carb one? or use montero mechanical fuel pump? -Will swap to a clutch fan and shroud with electric fans in front (hard wired to switches) -Keep thermostat? or ditch for better cooling? would it be worth the long warm-up? Thoughts?
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It's pretty clear that the computers and electronics of these cars do not fair well with endurance racing. I'm okay with slow, a 100hp car that doesn't break down is faster than a 200hp car in the pits. It's about consistency and completing laps - the only way i know to do that is with simplicity, and a slowpoke carb setup fits the bill. Clutch fan shroud is a good idea, will piggy-back it with electric fans as well. Anyone have a clutch fan and shroud setup laying around? also looking for a spare manual trans Thanks -Aaron
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Assumption is it would run much cooler without a turbo Thought was to replace intercooler with a second radiator in series, and put two oem oil coolers in series as well Would be a manual (to avoid auto problems^)- would be looking to pick up a spare trans just in case Idea is to have a slowpoke car with a big gas tank to pound out laps consistently (rather than bursting into flames after a few boosted fast laps) Thanks for comments, would be looking to compete next june
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I want to compete at the willow springs 24 hours of lemons with a starion (A 24 hour endurance race where the car must be worth $500) However, Car and Driver had this to say on the subject "in seven years of LeMons racing and 10 or so Starions, only one has managed to run more than a few dozen laps in a race. In fact, we’re going to make it a definitive statement: The Mitsubishi Starion is the worst possible choice, in the entire universe, for a 24 Hours of LeMons car." http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-wisdom-vs-conventional-wisdom-17-cars-that-should-dominate-but-dont-camaro-supra-gti%E2%80%94ahoy/ Plan is to run a widebody with a montero carb setup and re-wire for bare necessity destressed motor reliability, lsd handling, 20 gallon gas tank Why shoulden't this work?
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FS: 2.5" Mandrel Bent Turbo Back Exhaust --SOLD--
Squrlsquash replied to speedyquest's topic in Parts for sale
pics? also interested -
Cleaning up the garage, lots of parts for sale central VA
Squrlsquash replied to FijiPhil's topic in Parts for sale
dump pipe bolts to stock b-pipe? dibs pm'd