Chad

that wont cause a stumble at idle, only an over rich condition for a second or two after the BOV opens. 3 seconds max (while the valve is actualy open).

what is your time worth? You ever strip and swap to aonther car to a full restore condition to two cars that was otherwise fully intact? that's days and days of work.

intercooled, or non-intercooled (narrow body) 87? What happens when you disconnect the black one instead? the injectors may be in the wrong spot and you are idling on the secondary by mistake. People haqv ebeen known to switch them.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-air-solenoid-valves/=gz5p4s They are pretty easy to find, many indistrial sources out there. Why not get a better BOV? The HKS SSBOV doesnt' leak, it can't by design.

they have some rudimentatry baffles, just not much. LIke 2 sheets of steel bent in a W shape. The bowl the fuel pickup sits in is about 5" deep with a small hole so it can stay full. the return dumps into this bowl to even when teh fuel does slosh to the side in a corner, the bowl doesn't immediatly empty. It also doesn't ever have any more fue level in it that the tank, it's just a fail safe for corners.

if you take a 490 cc primary at put in an 850, you will run too rich = lumpy idle. the ECu has no way to compensate cause it's open loop and doesn't knwo the flow rate of the injector changed.

On the hubs, you can swap just the spindles and companion flanges and re-use your hubs, that's what I did.

an 84-86 850's should be 200-350 cc/min more fuel than a black 87 (depending on who you believe), and would lead to a lumpy idle/cruise. Many believe the 87-89 primalry is supposed to be 490 cc/min. Thus this ~600 cc primary is an oddity, which is why I was wondering what letter code it had on it.

yes, the stock gage is a guess-o-meter, many have blown head gaskets when it lied to them about how much boost they really had in the motor.

the before and after CC flows give you a good indication of the amount of crud that was cleaned off the pintle/seat. and the change in spray pattern helps a gret deal with idle performance. The HP figures help you budget for modifications, and we need to use a BSFC of .55 or .60. The fact that your black injector is 578 - 600 says to me that it may be from a 84-86 car where they didn't use the 2 different injector sizes, that should be closer to 500 cc/min, though opinions differ on this subject greatly as there is no "proof" of what the factory rating is supposed to be.. You may want to find the letter code on the injector, that will tell you what model year it came from. Lots of people have swapped in black injectors from different years thinking they are all they same, but they are not.

I think a full dressed crate motor is 305. The bottom end is about 160-165, and the head another 35-40, PS pump 5-6, and alternator another 15-20 = 215-230. If it's for shipping, you don't need to be real exact, just close. Crate/pallet may be 40-50 pounds, hard to say on that.

perhaps try an SX pump, they are mil spec, so they will last. Aeromotive is a great company, but it's not made for daily driving. SX was made for a lot of marine aplications, and is found on a lot of coast guard motors, that says a lot about their design. I bet it woudl last if you gave it a lift pump like I described. The quietness obviosly means it's doing a lot less work for the same flow.

I have the S362, though I have not installedit yet. Still running my backup T-4 60-1. I did a lot of research and came to this one after mapping out our motor on it's graphs, along with a lot of others. It's very efficent at high boost levels, so you can turn it way up, but still has good low boost flow, so it should be streetable. Many turbos have tall narrow maps, or a few have short wide maps, this one is more circular, so it's pretty well suited to both high and low boost wtih good flow at both ends. It has a bigger A/R cause the smaller A/R just isn't needed as much when you get to such an efficent turbo. On older designed wheels, the .58 is an ideal choice, but these newer wheels work better with bigger A/R's, and don't sacrifice spool time in the process. I nthe bullseye power forums, this is called the GT35R killer, cause it's spool times and boost limits are similar, but out flows it by about 100 HP.

I too have worked in a technical field a very long time, and I currently manage a very complicated/technical communications network. Inconsistency is very irksome, and tends to cause doubt in the system at hand. When I discover some inconsistency, I univerally find a flaw, somewhere, some how. I resolve/repair/restore that flaw and consistency resumes. It works this way over and over again, that's my job and I'm good at it. Now apply this to the bible and you will see how hard it is to trust/believe. I'n not saying it's false, just pointing out the nature of the document is inherantly irksome to some of us. I find inconsistency in my marraige, doesn't cause me to want to get devorced, but it does cause me to want to "work on it". There is no working on religion, it's inflexible. Why does Jesus teach that we should live by the golden rule and all the other rules will become moot (because if you live by the golden rule, you are by default doing those things anyway), and then he gives rules later on? Are they rules or guidelines? I personaly think they are guidelines to allow you to live by the golden rule, and that if I'm following the golden rule, I've got nothing to worry about. Then elsewhere the bible tells me I'm going to hell for not checking off some of these rules again. Am I going to hell or not? Many insist there is a check list and rules, but that's not what Jesus himself said. That is the issue we logical thinkers deal with.

Are you swapping for the noise? I have a similar pump myself (SX version) and have installed that same pump on a customers car. It too was very noisey, till I installed a secondary pump to fed it. I got a 15 PSI carburated high flow pump to feed a surge tank, and routed the surge tank return back to the fuel tank. the pressure from the surge was enough to cut the noise more than in half, you coudl still hear it, but not annoying at all. It also had the benifit of about 1 liter of pressurized fuel primed for the main pump at all times. It wan'st all that expensive and upgrade, and could flow enough fuel for 1000 HP.

OBO means you set a number, and peopel cut it down. Bidding means you set a number and people bid it up. Very big difference

When has religion ever eaten it's words? It's been proven false by science, and even by simple logic as well, but it won't yield, Why?

Please post a price (per forum rules), this site doesn't work well with "auction" style bidding. Just pick a number that is perhaps a little more than what you would like to get, but put OBO at the end of it. You get a few offers and then you pick one you want to deal with. No bidding wars please, they always get ugly, Ebay is for bidding. What brand management is that? what size injectors?

I'm not sure on the lenght fitting, may need shims. The O-ring and base are the same.

you need to use antisieze on any stainless threads or they gaul and strip the first time you use them. I's a quirk about stainless fasteners many don't know till it's too late.

yes, and 2 8's in parallel is 4. Thus if you remove 2 8's in parallel and put in a single 4, the deck never knows the difference. Here is a site with an online calculator, you have to use inverses to calculate, so it's not always an easy guess when you mix different values. http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm Does the speaker have the ohms stamped on it? pretty sure most of them do that I've taken out, just very faint. If you put a 6 and 8 in parallel, the 6 will receive the most power, and I really doubt that was the goal with those tiny dash speakers. That low reading may be due to coil insulation breakdown. It may also be due to the inductive reactance of the coil, it's an inuctor, not a resistor, so it has a resistance responce that is porportinal to frequency. DVOM's pulse out a sample voltage at a set frequency, and this frequency alters the resistance measurement on a coil, especialy smaller ones. You are measureing the coils inductive reactance in adition to the linealr conductor resistance. It makes Ohm readings unreliable [though usualy very close].

You are correct that the bible is vague about many details as the details are far less important than the lesson at hand. Thus, there is no point in using the bible to prove onces point about details, right? You can't dismiss it's vagueness on one hand, and then use it as a refrence on anohter, It was never ment to be used that way, and those that try to churn science ouf the book are conducting in a very foolist endeavor. Just shrug your shoulders and say what you feel about what it has to day, not what the book literaly says. The book is subject to interpretation, and means different things to different people. with a billion people reading it, there will be a billion differnet opinions, but the book in it's essense is still the same. Devine or not, it is still unchanged by opinion. Debating science with it was never it's intention, and will never pan out in the end. That's not to say the lessons are without merit or moot, just that this is a misuse of it. Some wan tto save their faith with scientific analysis of the book to put those "science guys" to rest, that's a sure way to finding disapointment.

LOL, yah !!

yes. Try a plasma cutter, the heat effected zone is just fractons of an inch. Same for a quality cut off wheel [not a grinding wheel], if you know what you are doing, you can get away wtih zero paint damage.

if it were warn away, the paint shoudl be bubbled from the heat needed to do that. Ever grind any metal before? it gets hot. It's not a blind cut, just drive around and see where the paint gets warn off inside the fender well, start cutting.