tux

And color front grille plastics

I don't know, but I would bet on them being nla.

Same story for me, but the year was 2000 and I couldn't legally drive it until 2001. I remember my friend going with me to drive for me on the three hour drive to Allentown PA and the car overheating a half hour from home.

Welcome and enjoy your empty pockets!

If it's the link you shared before, the images show a jet valve casting

I would get a non-jet casting

If it's slow to crank or something, maybe your alternator isn't charging the battery, but I'm going with startup fuel map

Probably the fuel map for startup

Not sure if it helps but I used a 1k pullup on my tach signal from my aem

ohh ya, check that as well, same happened to my brake switch

Might be vacuum lines or vacuum related. Sometimes the line running to the pump in the front of the radiator (drivers side) rots out. Could be the diaphragm in the module.

The loop is effectively the cooler. Seems like it was plenty enough to get by. I'd assume the sub condenser is due to extra heat from condenser, but I don't know, never had an in auto

No, the knock sensor is piezo electric if I remember correctly. It wouldn't have any downstream effects like destroying your igniter or distributor

You can always put them back!

Before you take them apart, check for continuity and bridge the terminals to make the motor go up/down. I'd rather see you make sure the switch is buggered by non-destructive means first. Not that you will destroy it, but I've noticed this old plastic is pretty fragile

I relocated the battery to do mine. I come through where my washer bottle was and up to the intake. I converted over to mpi though

1.5" Btw, I found an OEM clamp laying around at a dealership even though it's 'NLA'

Non-shp has a small gap too

Some of these inserts require spacers. Could just use some large washers

86 has two injectors of the same size. No vacuum leaks. Prior thread (not running out of nowhere) I made mention of fuel pressure is ok, injectors are good, compression is good, no vacuum leaks, new coil, good igniter, new vac advance, new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor. Timing is all good. It's just an odd spot in 2000-3000 rpm. Maybe I'll unplug the maf and try.

If it's anything like the coilovers quality, I'd pass on it

Curious if anyone one has any idea at 2000-3000 rpm in any gear as soon as I hit 0 psi I get popping and the car falls on its face. If I get to 3000 rpm while in vacuum, she runs fine in positive boost pressure.

Ya, I'm gonna have to learn to weld and buy some kit to do so

Ah farts, a new issue to fix. Revs hang now after blipping the throttle.

Oh yeah, those clamp to the body of the rack and bolt to subframe. I can't clamp to the subframe though