jeph_tsi

This isn't your fault so the claim shouldn't affect your insurance as it should be his insurance covering it. i would still consider not making the claim though because it still may be a total loss unfortunately. However always argue the first offer, comp your car to others in similar condition and very likely it will be higher than the bluebook. also if you want them to settle for less than book value you can tell them you've found the parts already and give them a low number to come in under whatever constitutes a total loss. Luckily if it is totalled the buyback should be 300 or less. I would guess they will value your car at 1800-2200 if its stock and in ok condition, be ready to fight a little. I hit a deer with mine last year and it was immediately declared totalled, they valued it at 1100 and damage at 3600. with a few phone calls I had them send someone out to appraise it, and with some more arguing and proving the rarity of my upgrades (1jz/r154) and good condition of my car I got them to raise the value of my car to 5500 and reverse the decision to make it a total loss.

yeah, in your case you can... Your going to want to "skin" the donor roof, basically remove the sheetmetal from the structural bits and weld it in. very likely the aftermarked sunroof installation affected some of the structure beneath the sheetmetal and that can be patched in as well. Hope you really like this car, this will involve a lot of time.

^yep, my first quest was my only car for around 5 years. Wide tires are tough, but summer tires make it impossible. These cars will quickly teach you just how much tires make a difference. I never had snow tires, but good all weather tires and a little weight in the rear make a world of difference. Luckily now my sq isn't my only car, still everything I have is rwd so none of them are great.

I've got an unsprung in mine, hate it! Its great for the track but as a daily it isn't good, jerky and a lot of shock to the drivetrain. I can't wait to get rid of it! I've also had an unsprung in one of my old quest's with a mildly built g54, didn't like it in there either.

mostly 4g6x, there is the max effort auto x which combines your autocross time with quarter mile, in that class there is no engine restriction, although I think they're changing it to mitsu only. Also new this year were the gtr classes. While it is mostly 4g's other engines are allowed, such as the 6g72 and 4b11's. They also allow test and tune during the shootout so that brings in some different cars and bikes too.

I have a set of burgundy velour if your interested.

I've actually had really good luck with harbor freight gauges, and they're super cheap! Only works for 134 systems though.

I think 3.54's are the tallest, if you want taller do a trans swap. I have an r154 and with stock rear I'm turning 3k at 80mph, thats why I want 3.90's, I'm losing a lot of power with such tall gears.

raider should be the same as the montero, not sure of the year range, all of the 80's and early 90's for sure. there was a montero in the yard I got my gears from, but it had a 4.6x which would be way too low.

They're in mighty max and ram 50 pick ups, also in older monteros and a few others. I just picked up a set for my car, 3.90's out of a ram 50 and I think there was another one there. The id plate on the firewall has the gearing stamped on it just like in conquests. Now I just need to find someone to put them in for me. I mostly find 3.90's in 2wd pickups, not finding too many 4x4's and I think thats where you get the 4.22's.

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/3948944457.html I looked at this one recently, he has since lowered his price and may even take less. Unfortunately this is pretty far from you but it is the most rust free max I've ever seen. The paint isn't the best though.

Wish I could have made it, just couldn't get the car back together in time... Also one of the guys that was going to cruise down with me had a rod start to knock. I can tell you where the oil is coming from, serpentine belt tensioner. Sounds funny but it is a hydraulic tensioner, I had one leaking on an aristo 2j I swapped for someone, made a mess of the lower timing cover, got on crank pully and flung all around the lower engine everywhere.

1. 19cturbo - one jz 2. Dad- wife and Quest 3. Tman -wife and Quest 4. HotrodTSi-Conquest and GF . carguygibby no can do 5. Boostedquest89- Quest and cooler 6. bad2rass- Kyle, Laura, Kevin, Dee, cooler lots of beer... laser jammer... lol 7. conquestTSIguy - wife 8. BigJohn 9. TSIGAL - quest 10. JAinsworth 11. Coke - unsure if I'll have Starion or Dart 12. Logikfive - quest and GF 13. Slowquest - wife, 2 daughters- maybe a Quest 14. jonboyb 15. Grant and cregg plus one quest 16. Ken_B 17. BOHO 18. Truth 19. Ken Marrow With Mitsulet 20. sellerfeller - starion, possibly 1 or 2 sons, & maybe a buddy 21. theastronaut 22. nomad (fiday and saturday) 23. jeph_tsi, 1jz conquest, friends bringing 89 quest, 88 quest, 86 20v swapped mr2, 03 2jzgte aristo swapped is300. Can't wait! Down to the wire on getting mine ready for the meet. a few of my friends are coming too with conquests, a 20 valve swapped mr2, and an is300 with a aristo 2jzgte vvti swap with stock turbos.

would you be willing to sell just the intake boot from the mass air to the turbo if its in decent condition? If so, shipping to 45153.

No echeck here luckily, that ended years ago. Look forward to seeing anothe sq in tbe area, and 1jz'd at that! You'll find some quick cars here, especially around middletown.

what did tennessee? The same thing arkansas!

Burton you absolutely have it, this is beyond returning the car, return the money. USED CARS HAVE NO WARRANTY YOU FOOL!!!! And by the way, isn't disputing the charge with the credit card kinda like breaking up with someone via text (coward)!?! buying a used car (especially a modified one) is always a gamble and many of us have ended up on the good and bad side of this. Its funny that after the fact you found discussions of problems with the car on this forum, THIS RESEARCH SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE FIRST THING YOU DID WHEN CONSIDERING TO BUY THIS CAR!!! The last sq I bought off of here was a swapped car, I clicked on the sellers name and read through every thread and post he made, this research helped me to make my decision and buy the car. And guess what, mine wouldn't have made it home either (10 hour trip), I was told it would, but just to be safe I trailered it home knowing that it was heavily modified and just didn't want to take that risk. Now if there is a problem and you feel you deserve your money back, rather than just taking it try to be fair and go to court, this way you both get to explain your side in front of a fair and impartial third party. You bought a heavily modified, 20+ year old car, didn't do your research prior to the purchase, didn't give it a thorough enough inspection and it bit you in the a**, you gambled and lost this one. Now your keeping the car for evidence? What kind of evidence are you collecting? I think you should start with the warranty and then show how it proves you deserve all of your money back. This absolutely makes me sick! Infamous you are a stain on our community! Especially that it took you this long to chime in (you know you are wrong!). I have a guess for why you don't believe in this type of communication, you are a thief and this exposes it! I wish you would do the fair thing and return the money but surely you wont, so hopefully you get your day in court which will be difficult and costly for the unfortunate seller here but in the end worth while to at least prove who is right here and I hope to see updates as this unfolds. Unfortunately this behavior doesn't warrant you being banned, but can the mods chime in on this and tell me, can we sticky this in the feedback section?

mmhmmm, lol!

that window weld is some tough stuff, seems like a good fix to me. A trick I always used is to leave the tube in front of a torpedo heater for a minute or two, or if its hot out sit it on some hot asphault for 10 minutes or so, this will soften it up a bit and make it easier to use with a standard caulking gun.

I had a blast last year and will definitely be attending this year assuming it fits in with my schedule. Of course I still have a bunch of work to do before I'm roadworthy with the conquest, shouldn't be a problem though!

Cool, I can't say much for it as of yet except it is definitely fast! I am used to the cbx which is much heavier and has an extended swingarm so the few times I've driven the 929 it was a handful, mine is stock except for gearing. This is my first bike with fuel injection (usually I collect muscle bikes) and it sure is nice, starts every time and no carbs to keep messin with.

Which one, cbr or cbx? I just got the cbr so I can't say much for it as I've only rode it a few times in the COLD! But the cbx is nothing short of awesome! I've had it for a few years now and it is an absolute blast.

I just picked up a cbr to keep the cbx company! its an '01 929rr. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i430/jeph_tsi/20130125_210901_zpsca20e39e.jpg

Wow! Haven't thought of cnm in some time... I dealt with james quite a bit back in the day, super nice guy who would definitely spend the time to talk to you. Transactions were never fast and I remember it taking a long time to get a turbo from him when he was on his way out. I dealt with him as much as I could then because he was always more than willing to help and this was before I knew too much about these cars. I never dealt with his 3" exhaust, but he sure was passionate about it! I wonder where he is today?

that is a very strong transmission as long as you don't get the first couple years it was in production, there is no way the input shaft would swap as one is nissan, other is toyota and are different generations. you will need a custom flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing. the kit is out there for around 1800 (minus transmission). The problem is the length of this transmission, it can be shortened a little but iirc even at its shortest its still around 4" too long. the nissan transmission is stronger than the r154. What I'm curious about is how strong would the r154 be if you had it cryo'd... if you can do the tear down and rebuild yourself cryogenic treatment is 3-5$ per pound. I need to tear down my r154 because of problems with 5th gear shift fork and will likely to the marlin crawler upgrade and get all the forks/gears/shafts cryo'd.