hschwartz3

Here's what I use. It's an old garden sprayer, some 1/8 vinyl hose, and a plastic 1/8-27 npt hose barb adapter. The metal adapter screwed into the side of the block is a 1/8-28 BSPT to 1/8-27 NPT adapter for my aftermarket oil pressure gauge. No need to go hog wild pumping up the pressure and aerating the oil, 4 to 5 pumps will do. If you dont want to tear up a garden sprayer, go to your nearest marine supply store, and buy an outdrive gear lube pump. It screws to the top of a 1qt. oil bottle, and will run you under $10. It will have a different adapter ziptied on the end of the vinyl hose, but a trip to lowe's to get the right one easily fixes that. I have a boat, so i use my sprayer to change my lower unit oil too. Unless you have some plugs for where the oil cooler lines attach or the turbo feed line, i wouldn't reccomend doing it while the engine is on the stand. Wait till it's in the car and all hooked up. As you can see it by the puddle on the floor it starts coming out there. Once the engine was in the car, I filled the oil this way. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Engine/8%20to%201%20motor/oilprime2.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Engine/8%20to%201%20motor/oilprime1.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Engine/8%20to%201%20motor/oilfilterassyandauxsender.jpg Once the motor was filled with oil, I disconnected the neg. and pos. coil wires, disconnected the injectors and cycled the motor a couple seconds with the starter to verify i had pressure.

that picture is awesome, would love to know more about it. i would think a moutain lion/cougar would be creeping up on it's prey, not standing tall with it's head cocked to one side like a german shepard trying to figure out what to camera man is saying, although it is plausible.

booooo, i say keep the mudders, you'll love them in the winter time, just turn the radio up if the noise bothers you.....hahaha. seriously, if you go out to wrngwae's i'd love to tag along and drink some of his beer too.....haha

i'll be watching this thread with some interest. like you, I couldn't get all get all my cam card numbers to work out either. No matter what valve lash setting. .001, .003, .006. I just gave up and used the centerline method john mentioned above. Works fine, just didn't have that warm and fuzzy feeling like i was expecting.

you can tear the tires up all you want, i havent paid for em' yet.........hardy har har har

ohhh nooo, this is terrible news. Glad you and the family are alright. I cant imagine what your going thru. If theres anything at all i can help you with , please let me know.

Never heard of the "begi", and i've only seen 1 of the MK1 units, are either still for sale?

I've used two types, the MSD 2222 and the Aeromotive 13109. Both work the same. The MSD unit is cheaper, but what i dont like about it is, you have to mount it in series with the stock FPR via a line, braided or rubber. Most fuel injection line is only rated for 50 lbs, so you end up riding around hoping the line doesnt rupture. As you can see in the picture, that line see's what ever fuel pressure your pushing. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Engine_center-1.jpg My solution was to cut off the stock fpr, tap the hole for 12mm x 1.50, buy an aeromotive 13109 fpr, a Russel -6ANx12mm adapter, use a copper crush washer, and mount it to the existing TB....done. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Meets/2010meet3.jpg

that's awesome Andy, she's a beauty.

you could always use the space and opening in the core support vacated by the charcoal canister for a custom cool air pickup. not that it's perfect, but you get the idea. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Misc/coolairpickup.jpg

I've been getting an advance auto flyer in the mail for the past three months. It's barcoded at the top and offers the same savings mentioned above and i love it. i asked the guys at the store about it and they said if i use it i'll get another one next month. So i do. I usually use it on oil changes and fluids that the online stores dont want to ship. that way i still use the coupon but still get compare prices on hard parts. i tell you, i never run outa brake clean, antifreeze, oil, rtv, towels....ect...anymore, lol

I too have an MSD ignition and run taylor wires with no issues, have also run the NGK wires with good success. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Meets/2010meet3.jpg

bryan, i'll prolly head that way around 7 ish tonight. i'll get ahold of you before i go.

I'll be around Heath tonight and pretty much all day tomorrow. Gonna stop by the mopar nationals on saturday morning before the meet. If anyone coming needs any car assistance, I have a trailer and truck if it comes to that. PM me for my phone number. jszucs, 13 is your typical 2 lane highway, not too many stops, windy curvy in places, i'd say it'd be perfect for a bike ride. i have not been past mt. vernon on it though. see you all then.

I love me some super cab trucks too....lol http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/2001%20GMC%20Sierra%202500%204wd/Drivers_side_low.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1977%20Ford%20F250%20Supercab/Drivers_side_low.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/2010%20Branson%20Meet/bransonpics1008.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/2010%20Branson%20Meet/branson045.jpg don't have any pics of the green truck pulling the quest, but it's done the job more times than the black truck has.

just as psykore alluded to above, you'll have to step up your search criteria. especially the use of the "+" or "-" sign. once you come up with a search the satisfies all your needs, save it as one of your favorite searches in "my ebay", then you won't have to re-enter it everytime. I'm with you though, kinda stinks that vendors are allowed to get away with that garbage.

Yeah bud, happy birthday

24, just to 1 up mark....lol

Absolutely, hope all your wishes come true. Happy Birthday Tom

If this is still available, i'll take it. PM sent.

Here's a pic of the exhaust I made. It's a 2.5" downpipe, then increases to a 3" exhaust. Straight open with an angled tip. I think it sounds really good, and always seem to get compliments on it. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Passenger_rear_corner_low.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Rear_low.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Passenger_side_low.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Exhaust/Exhaust_2.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Exhaust/Exhaust_rear.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Exhaust/Exhaust_flex.jpg http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp121/hschwartz3/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion/Exhaust/Exhaust_tuck.jpg

I recently ordered a head from Randy (DAD), it came rather quickly, well packaged, and in excellent condition. Very easy to deal with and well worth your business. Thanks Randy for all the parts support you provide our SQ community. Herb

Make sure your using the correct spark plug, intercooled cars should be running a BUR7EA-11 plug (still sold at jegs and summit) or a BPR7ES as a suitable replacement. Too much plug gap also causes the end to melt off. If you go to the autoparts counter and ask for plugs for the car they'll probably try to give you a BPR6ES plug, which works for a non-intercooled car but is too hot for an intercooled car. Then coumpound it with the already large stock gap setting and you very well could melt the end off a plug. Especially since your running a 19C. I'm not saying this is your problem,just something to look into. Which cylinder melted? and did the other plugs look alright?

Not sure if this helps any, but back in August I was trying to use the knock detect feature in my SAFC by tapping into the ECU and could not get it to work properly. Mike C. responded with his explanation of how the knock detect works on our cars. Here's the link > http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=96277.

Sorry about that, I fixed my link above. had too many http's in there. lol