The Rabbit1

I got the same wideband on ebay for under $160

ISC/MPS to 23320?

if you said what it is doing then maybe we can help a lil better..

that's basically an accel coil..

i would have held on and tried to kill that mother! that way when people say omg what happened? I could say: I hit a deer.. with my face.. but I ate it, so we're even.. lol but seriously I bet the deer would have beat him worse if he tried that, lol

repost,,

what's so hard about it?

I just bought one like 2 months ago, I doubt there were only 10 left, the same centerlink works on d-50, mighty max...

got mine at NAPA

how do you know it's good? did you run 12v to it? did you spin it to see how smoothly it spins?

I did with the one I got, it went up one size.

how much is shipping to 23320?

yes pls

if your knock box is indeed bad and you replace it I would like it for a project btw..

I will say it one more time, I had that problem last week, I tested the distributor pickup and it was at 1180 ohms, specs are 920-1120.. somehow it was still running, so I changed it anyway.. and I no longer have a weak spark, take five minutes and check it instead of $500 and five days avoiding doing the simple tests the FSM tells you to do..

96 LT4 corvette, has the 140 amp alternator

look at the connection where the forks/handlebar meet body right at the the joint where you steer.. is the paint there cracked? take a closup if you would. also straighten out the wheel and stand her up, have someone hold her up and take a pic, does the slant of the forks look right? any cracking of paint, or the rake of the forks being off or the wheel doesn't look straight when looking down at it from the rider's seat, then the frame is tweaked. And any new frame is hell in a handbag to get DMV to accept, all kinds of paperwork and fees that I doubt you want to deal with.

I took mine to a local hydraulic line shop and had them redone for about $20 or so, heavy equipment hydraulic line quality, will probably outlive the car now..

made it to 55 before giving up, lol it was the first timed question

so my car was still reading rich at times under boost.. tested coil and pickup and they were reading slightly out of spec, changed them out and voila! runs like a champ, just because it runs don't assume electronics are good, this may help you out..

so my car was doing this same thing, my wideband was reading it as a rich condition, tested coil and pickup and they were reading slightly out of spec, changed them out and voila! runs like a champ, this may help you out..

I think this is why I am not liking mine, I have to keep the rpms up to keep it charging like I would like it

you can't tell if your running rich or lean without the wideband, if it's running rich I would check the resistance on the ignition coil and dist pickup to see if they're on the way out, if it's running lean then you'll find out when detonation blows your motor up..

it's typically an iceberg rear case, high output stator, and better rectifier. You can read up on them here: http://alternatorpar...m/7130_7140.htm the iceberg case is for better cooling and a bigger rear bearing, because of the location on our cars and the restricted air flow these are ideal. Any local alternator rebuild shop should be able to fix or even upgrade it. as for the hyundai alternator I am now getting rid of one because of the lack of output during load changes, with accesories turned on it drops to 12v, and that's without the stereo pulling hard, turn up the radio and it keeps around 12v(barely), but it sure doesn't like to.

I.D.?