techboy

Sounds like a leaking injector to me.

I touch more info would be helpful. When you say it doesn't start - what does it do? Does it crank but not fire? ... or do you turn the key and just get nothing? Just a click. Is the car running rich or do you have a leaky injector? That can flood the TB out and make it really hard to start until it's been sitting a while and the fuel evaporates. I had this issue years ago with a Quest I owned. I'd drive somewhere and couldn't get to start again. Let it sit a few hours and it would fire right up. Finally figured out I had a leaking injector.

Made it out to the garage tonight - you guys were right. Glad I asked. Turned out it was just REALLY dirty contacts. I picked up some of the recommended QD Electric spray. My contacts were BLACK. I forgot to take a beforehand pic, but they were pretty bad. Sprayed everything down and cleaned everything up. Used a Q-tip to put a dab of diaelectric grease on everyhing too. Tested it before I reinstalled and the window goes up and down so fast now - I guess the build-up was affecting continuity. I also decided now would be a good time to install these new decals I got from Natellica 10 years ago (for those that remember him). This was the current state of my switch. Much better.

Kev I totally forgot this past weekend was Carlisle. That event sneaks up on me every year. It's been a rough start to car show / meet season. It's rained so much. I think I only drove the car 3 times so far this year till the window got stuck down.

Many years ago I had an opportunity to remove balance shafts on a 4G63 and didn't. A few years later on a VERY hot summer day I had the balance shaft seize on the turbo side. The seize snapped the balance shaft belt (chain on a G54) got tangled in the timing belt, crashing the valves on the head. Had to pull and rebuild the entire motor. That was last I had anything to do with balance shafts. On my Eclipse I notice a slight vibration when sitting at traffic light that wasn't there before. On the Starion I noticed nothing after delete.

I was able to get the pin out everyone talked about and I got the switch disassembled, but that's as far as I've gotten. That was Friday. I haven't had 5 minutes to myself since then. I'm hoping to clean it all up tomorrow night and try it out - if I can squeeze a few moments out in the garage.

Thanks Jimmy. This is a huge help. I'm gonna try this later today.

Awesome. Thank you BuGG. I suspected I was missing something since other threads mentioned cleaning these.

I feel like it's been a long time since I've put a post up looking for help ... but I need help guys. Went to a car show about 2 weeks ago and put my windows down. My drivers window has been stuck down ever since. I took the switch off tonight to look at it, but I don't see how it would come apart to look inside at the contacts. I don't have another switch. When I installed the new interior last summer the interior I bought didn't come with switches, so I swapped over my originals. So this is the only one I have. I hooked the switch back up and put a test light on it. I get a light on the test light when I probe the green wire, but nothing on the red wire. Makes me think it could be the switch, but the fact that I'm getting a light kinda makes me think the motor could be bad. I feel like I hear the motor trying to something, but it's hard to tell. So ... is it a motor or the switch? I've restored several cars at this point in my life, but I've never swapped a window motor. I wouldn't even know how to go about it. The door is pretty solid, I can't imagine it'd be any fun at all. Thoughts? EDIT: Other valuable info ... everything else works - passenger window, dome light, etc. I haven't had any other problems with the car other than the drivers window not functioning.

DIFFICULTY - Easy TOOLS NEEDED - Cable cutters (or knife), flat-head screwdriver MATERIALS - Coolant and/or distilled water This is an easy project, for even the beginner mechanic. I noticed a few weeks back I was getting a coolant drip after driving my car, I discovered it was heater core hose at the firewall, so I decided to replace both and take a pics along the way. First, I ordered two new heater core hoses from DAD (in and out hose). They arrived a few days later. Now we need to remove the existing hoses at the firewall. They are most likely installed with hose clamps, so loosen them up and remove both hoses. Note, you WILL lose coolant during the process. I did this out in the driveway on purpose so I didn't have coolant all over my garage floor. I discovered years ago quite by accident that a set of cable cutters are EXCELLENT for cutting small diameter hoses cleanly. If you don't have a set, go buy a pair - it'll be well worth it. If you were able to get your old hoses off without too much trouble, you should be able to use them as templates for your new hoses, as they will be a little bit longer than needed. I had to cut about about an inch off this one. And I had to cut about 1/2 inch off this one. Now your ready to reinstall. Don't go too crazy tightening down the hose clamps, the heater core fittings are cooper and can/will crush. Now top of your radiator with coolant. Take your car for a short drive and make sure it gets up to temperature. Bring it back home and check your work for leaks. Let the car cool down an hour or so, then open your rad and it top it off again. You should be good to go. Happy StarQuesting.

Welcome. I am also a DSMer, still have my 2G GSX in storage. There's a lot of similarity between the cars, esp 1G's, but there are also a lot of differences with the G54. For instance the injection and TB setup. But, I think you got a good plan. Get a good mechanical base, and the make it pretty. 👍 EDIT - Oh, and yes, that 83 hood can be worth 500 - 1000 dollars depending on condition. I'd love to find one myself someday.

Interesting. I'll have to take a look at that window sticker when I have a chance and I can download into an app I zoom-in on. Super cool you have the window sticker. I'm jealous.

Are you sure the Paint Code on that car is "Buckskin"? I'm 99% sure that was available interior color name, not an exterior paint code. I don't even see a paint color called Buckskin here: All Factory Colors List Car looks like Palermo Grey to me.

Jimmy ... I know this is a 14 year old thread - do have the pictures to fix this thread? My drivers side window stopped working yesterday and I'd like to try cleaning the switch up first.

I've been having trouble with the site lately too, and I recently started getting an ad between every click which o never got any ads before at all - not sure what's going on. Car looks awesome. I'd love to see some pics of that buckskin interior.

I'd start with basic tune up stuff - replace the rotor, cap, coil and plugs and see what happens, esp since you say have good fuel pressure. You can order most of that cheap right from Rockauto. The pics you have posted don't show the wiring at the CTS.

The thermosensor isn't going to affect much, but the coolant temp sensor in a G54B is critical to determining open and closed loop and will affect the running of the engine - but not spark. I'd look into the coil or ignitor like BKB94 suggested. As far as the wiring goes without a pic it's tough to see what you going on, but you should have a wiring harness branch running along the intake manifold with 3 connectors on it for the CTS, sender, and the AC switch, all of them right at the water neck. Look for wires in that area that are yellow with either blue or green stripes on them - if I'm remembering right.

I just trimmed mine with a pair of scissors to clean it up a bit. It was torn and rough around the edges. There are aftermarket adhesive type under insulation you can buy from places like Summit or Jegs that many guys use. I've never personally purchased any of those products myself. However I have researched them and considered it. You definitely want something there. My first Quest ever was white and the hood paint had turned yellow-ish were the turbo was b/c the previous owner removed the insulation and all shielding.

Sounds good. I still have it.

It's getting close to the end of driving season here in PA for 2016. NikoFab is putting together an SQC calendar for 2017 and asked if I'd be apart of it. So, I spend some time online searching for a local photographer that shoots cars, not just a wedding photographer. I actually found someone and we met up and did a shot at a local state park. He took probably a 100 photos, but here's a few from that day. It was so much fun to have this done.

If you watched my Youtube test drive video from several posts back during the restoration you might have notice there's a piece that falls of the car when I'm driving. Luckily it didn't do any damage to my paint, but it was the top windshield trim. It got mangled in the fall. Appearantly the upper windshield clips are broken and not holding. So I had to track down a new one. pcristquester hoooked me up and did a great job shipping it safely cross country., I need to track down some windshield clips and get this installed.

I built a motor for a different car years ago with forged pistons and rods that constantly had oil pressure problems. B/c of that I'm a bit paranoid about oil pressures and I tend to watch them like a hawk. So far, everything seems to be good with this engine build. Idle at start up is about 60lbs. After driving a bit, completely warm, idle at a stop light is about 18-20lbs.

Hit up my 2nd ever car show for a local girl dealing with childhood cancer. Car is running good so far!

Because everything was coming down to the wire before the show, I didn't have time to finish putting the trunk area back together. I just put the cargo cover on for the car show and hid everything. B/c the car was white, and is now blue, I wanted to take a moment and repaint the trunk area in black. So I grabbed a can of paint and brushed the lower spare tire area in black. Took all the support pieces out and cleaned them up with the wire wheel. Then I hit them up with some fresh black spray paint. After letting it all dry, I simply started putting everything back together. First the metal support structures. Then the carpet pieces. Set the spare tire back in place. Trunk cover. And the final carpet piece. Not hard work, but I'm really happy with how it came out and how it looks.

Doesn't surprise me at that price. That was a good deal.