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Yes another 2JZGTE


serpentkilla
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ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!

 

Just wanted to let everybody know I am up and running with an auto 2jz and many thanks to Serpentkilla for all the help

and for giving me the motovation to start this project.

Also here are some helpful part numbers you may need if your going to do the swap.

They are for connectors and terminal leads

 

Coil Packs

90980-11246 Housing, List 6.61 Cost 5.04 Ea X 6

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 12

Injectors

90980-11153 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07 Ea X 6

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 12

Map sensor

90980-10845 Housing, List 7.20 Cost 5.50

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 3

Cam/crank Sensor

90980-10947 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07 Ea X 3

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 9

Iac

90980-11144 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 6

Efi Temp

90980-11062 Housing, List 7.93 Cost 6.06

82998-12620 Terminal, List 23.61 Cost 18.02 Ea X 2

Water Temp

90980-11428 Housing, List 6.60 Cost 5.04

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56

Ignitor

90980-11151 Housing, List 9.75 Cost 7.44

82998-12440 Terminal List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 12

90980-11152 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Alt

90980-11349 Housing, List 7.93 Cost 6.06

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Knock

90980-11166 Housing, List 6.60 Cost 5.04 Ea X 2

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Tps

90980-10711 Housing, List 14.42 Cost 11.01

82998-12620 Terminal, List 23.61 Cost 18.02 Ea X 4

02 sensor

90980-11028 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Resistor pack

90980-10896 Housing Male List 9.75 Cost 7.44 [engine side ]

82998-12430 Terminal List 5.98 Cost 4.56 ea x 7

90980-10897 Housing Female List 9.75 Cost 7.44 [harness side ]

82998-12440 Terminal List 5.98 Csot 4.56 ea x 7

 

I am still tweaking but I think its going to be worth it.

Thanks again Serpentkilla,

James

 

James,

 

Did you use the toyota transmission? What did you do for a shifter?

 

I am in the early process of this same swap.

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James,

 

Did you use the toyota transmission? What did you do for a shifter?

 

I am in the early process of this same swap.

I used the Toyo transmission and a B&M Quick Silver Shifter. Once i get all the bugs worked out and everything cleaned up I will be putting a shift kit in the transmission. I havent had a chance to hook up the manual/auto shift circuit yet but i think it will work nicely. I used a lexus driveshaft I got from the junk man at work said they were part of some kind of recall so not sure what it came from but it had a built in slip joint. Had the drive shaft shop shorten and add the right end for the quest rearend and replace the other with the stub that came with the engine. Its probably the nicest looking part on the whole car and nobody will ever see it. I'll try to get a move on and get it cleaned up and take some pics for you. Let me know if you need help with any of it,

 

James

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I used the Toyo transmission and a B&M Quick Silver Shifter. Once i get all the bugs worked out and everything cleaned up I will be putting a shift kit in the transmission. I havent had a chance to hook up the manual/auto shift circuit yet but i think it will work nicely. I used a lexus driveshaft I got from the junk man at work said they were part of some kind of recall so not sure what it came from but it had a built in slip joint. Had the drive shaft shop shorten and add the right end for the quest rearend and replace the other with the stub that came with the engine. Its probably the nicest looking part on the whole car and nobody will ever see it. I'll try to get a move on and get it cleaned up and take some pics for you. Let me know if you need help with any of it,

 

James

 

James,

 

Thanks... any chance the Quest shifter could have worked?

I don't have the input flange to match up to the transmission so I am going to have to have a custom drive shaft built.

 

Did you hook up the A/C?

 

I'd be interested in any part numbers you might have for radiator, intercooler and how you configured them.

 

Also, what did you do for motor mounts? Did you fab up from Mad Dax's drawings?

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James,

 

Thanks... any chance the Quest shifter could have worked?

I don't have the input flange to match up to the transmission so I am going to have to have a custom drive shaft built.

 

Did you hook up the A/C?

 

I'd be interested in any part numbers you might have for radiator, intercooler and how you configured them.

 

Also, what did you do for motor mounts? Did you fab up from Mad Dax's drawings?

Quest shfiter works with rods also right where shifter comes through floor is also where the big rubber donut on driveshaft is so it causes a clearence issue.

Your auto toyo didnt come with the rubber donut and a small chunk of the orginal drive shaft? that sucks ,,,,

No a/c maybe one day but like serpent i ran wiring harness through firewall where a/c lines use to go.

Made my own mounts, used quest stock radiator, used universal FMIC intercooler I got on ebay, I'll take some pics so you can get an idea of where everything fits in engine bay this week and post or email them to you. My work at best is a hack job but its functional and safe.

 

James

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Nope.. mine only came with the transmission sub flange... no driveshaft side.

 

Looking at my trans it looked like MAYBE a rod setup would work. Oh well... I guess I will see what I see when I get the thing in the car.

 

Look forward to your pictures. One can learn alot by seeing how someone else approached the problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Man, I'm so jealous. I wanted to do this swap into my Conquest over 10 yrs ago so it's cool to finally see some people making it happen! Edited by Ryan_V
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Man, I'm so jealous. I wanted to do this swap into my Conquest over 10 yrs ago so it's cool to finally see some people making it happen!

 

It's really nice and reliable i love it. im debating on which mode i like better, sequential or ttc. I kinda got used to the ttc but once you put the boost controllers on each wastegate in sequential, this thing is even more of a beast.

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  • 5 weeks later...
I went to the track about a month ago for the first time with this set up and ran 13.2 at 111mph twice and 13.7 the last run ( way to much wheel spin)The car runs really well on top end but its a complain to launch. This was done on reg street tires, i have a customer on my route that ran 13.075 in his 01 vette on street tires so that was my goal. The car had more, i was felling a 12.7 12.8 or so. On my way home the damn tranny gave out. If you are doing this swap don't waste your time on this pos w58. I went to the track tonight, it took me almost 2 hrs to get there. The track was hot as shyt, like 103 degrees. My first pass was 13.053 at 112mph. I was so freaking happy with that i almost creamed myself (I think i did). I waited about 45 mins and the the second run i did 13.4 blowing the tranny again, yes it was another w58. I never got the car dyno'd but i read where this is supposed to be good for around 400. So thats it for me this will sit until i can find an r154. I can get another w58 tomorrow and have it in there but whats the freaking point. I still manage to get it home in 4th gear everything else was shot lol. I will post the time slips laterz.
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when i was into the old toyotas everyone also said the w58s were s*** to beat on unless you get the one's from the turboed trucks or 4runners. r154 ftw!!!
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Those are pretty good times!

 

What have you done to the motor to take it beyond stock?

 

Are you still running the original JDM Turbos and Injectors?

 

I am surprised you haven't had problem with the IRS and 1/2 shafts. If you start hooking up that horse power IRS rear ends are known to wheel hop like mad.

 

I used to have an 03 Cobra and my best launch technique was to just drive it out of the hole like I was leaving a stop light on the street (in a hurry) and once I got rolling then really stand in it. NO POWER SHIFTING and I was fine.

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Those are pretty good times!

 

What have you done to the motor to take it beyond stock?

 

Are you still running the original JDM Turbos and Injectors?

 

I am surprised you haven't had problem with the IRS and 1/2 shafts. If you start hooking up that horse power IRS rear ends are known to wheel hop like mad.

 

I used to have an 03 Cobra and my best launch technique was to just drive it out of the hole like I was leaving a stop light on the street (in a hurry) and once I got rolling then really stand in it. NO POWER SHIFTING and I was fine.

 

Its all stock baby, i just have the greddy bcc on there so i wont hit boost cut. yup original turbos and injectors, im leaving at 2500 - 3000 rpm to avoid wheel spin but when i hit 3500 - 4000 rpm it still spins its arse off. the 13.2 times where in parallel mode and the 13 was in sequential. The half shafts are fine for now until i get the r154 and drags, then i will be breaking them... joy joy.Yeah i drive like miss daisy to get it out the hole, they punch it like chuey lmao

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Score, i found a r154 today for 60 bucks. The guy was going to throw it away, it pops out of 2nd gear. I dropped it of to have it rebuilt. No more stinking w58 for me ;)
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The MPH looks good....

You are making some horsepower!

 

Not that it will affect your ET at all... but you could set your alarm a bit earlier and stop taking a nap at the tree! LOL

 

 

LMAO i said the same thing, i drive a truck for a living damit. I know i need practice but it was only my second time at the track with this. Give me a few more passes i will get it down, i was trying not to spin the tires.

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One thing that helped me with reaction time with my cars was to figure out which yellow light I "left" on.

 

I don't watch for the green but rather time my leaving to the progress of the yellow lights.

 

With my Marauder (an Auto which is MUCH easier) I leave just as the 2nd of the 3 yellow lights goes out.

Between my old tail and the very heavy car, it all works out to the tires leaving the beam just after the green light comes on even tho I am starting that early.

 

My Fairlane with slicks I can afford to try and leave just as the 3rd yellow light is coming on (slightly later than the MM) as the car leaves harder and gets rolling quicker. Obviously the goal is to get as close to .000 as possible! <G>

 

Last time to the strip with the Fairlane I was cutting .020-.050. Still not perfect but getting tighter.

 

For the sake of parts, were I you, I'd stay away from drag radials or slicks or as you mentioned earlier, you will start breaking s***. Even on street tires, the weak spot has been your transmission (so far), soon as you tighten it up, you will find your next weak spot! LOL

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get out your shoe horn for the r154 lol. also you might want to pick up 3:90's or 4:22's for the rear. i went with 3:90's and its close to stock but still off

 

Yeah i'm prepared for that just waiting to get the tranny back, take it over to V8killer's house to put it on the lift and cut and bang the heck outta the trans tunnel. I think im gonna stick with the stock gearing for now, i was under 3 grand at almost 80 mph.

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yep sounds about right gearing wise. i had no torque behing the 4g63 so a gear swap was unavoidable. the pass side of the tunnel is what seems to need the most "adjusting". if you end up needing to make a new driveshaft do yourself a favor and try to make bigger u joints work now. i exploeded 4 of the starion stock rear joints. you end up saving in the long run. your car is bad tail forsure. i kinda wish a did a jz swap over the 4g63. as far as your mph on the slips thats an easy 12.6 pass with a good 60'. if you end up buying sticky rear tires for drag go with a slick over a drag radial. drag radials side wall is too stiff and the shock of the launch will break the rear axles. a slick the wall wrinkles and make the launch less violent on the axle. just some food for thought. good luck
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Time slips

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/pgoombay/img002.jpg

 

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/pgoombay/img003.jpg

 

im car 3152 build g54b with the slipping clutch i was trapping him down the second run...The first run i miss second gear so i just crusie down the track.

Edited by skillz
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yep sounds about right gearing wise. i had no torque behing the 4g63 so a gear swap was unavoidable. the pass side of the tunnel is what seems to need the most "adjusting". if you end up needing to make a new driveshaft do yourself a favor and try to make bigger u joints work now. i exploeded 4 of the starion stock rear joints. you end up saving in the long run. your car is bad tail forsure. i kinda wish a did a jz swap over the 4g63. as far as your mph on the slips thats an easy 12.6 pass with a good 60'. if you end up buying sticky rear tires for drag go with a slick over a drag radial. drag radials side wall is too stiff and the shock of the launch will break the rear axles. a slick the wall wrinkles and make the launch less violent on the axle. just some food for thought. good luck

 

Thanks for the tip, i will deff look into that. What if you just lower the pressure, would that help with the shock?

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Thanks for the tip, i will deff look into that. What if you just lower the pressure, would that help with the shock?

 

what kinda tire pressure s were you running on stock tires, i would not run under 20ish psi. on my car, i would run 6-7psi in slicks and drag radials, on my fwd honda though.

radials are much harder on parts PERIOD. its more violant like previously stated, and the traction difference is much lower then slicks (at least when first starting out and dialing in the car)

 

def seems like that car is moving good. i wish i could have seen it. When you plannin on going to cecil? Are you still planning on going? ill make a special trip for that. finally get to check out the car.

 

Hope to have my car up and running bye end of summer, we shall see. and if you ever want help swapping trans, let me know, i have a lift at the house

 

Dan

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