AzStar

Been AWOL for awhile on other projects. I have the 2JZGTE w/Auto in my 89 Conquest Automatic body. Fit very nicely. I am not finished.... wonder if I will ever make it. But it fits fine. Need to sort out the shifter and the damned wiring...

LOL... I can't post a picture... I don't have the rod! The rod I'm looking for is about 2 foot long... attaches to the transmission on one end and the bell crank for the shifter on the other. If that is what you have I'm interested.

Looking for a shift rod from an automatic trans. Just the rod... don't need shifter or any of the other parts.

I will have to take you up on that. But we can't go flying down the road before or after I eat! My stomach won't be able to handle the strain! : )

I need to do a shout out to both Serp and VetteKlr. I had a chance to see both their rides while on a business trip last week. Talk about some sweet engineering! Serp took me for a ride in his sled... and the term... HOLY SHEEEEEEEEIT! doesn't even do it justice. The car is flat out a BEAST! Talk about getting out of town in a hurry.... Serp.. thanks much... hope there were no stains on the upholstery! The paintjob on Vette's car is super! I had to ask him who his "tailor" was! LOL Supposedly the guy who did the paint won't do another one at that price. If he would... I'd ship mine from Arizona to Maryland to have him do it! So... much thanks to both of you. I got a lot of good tips and with a little luck maybe I'll get mine finished this year.

Are you still on the OEM rear end and 1/2 shafts?

With the same front rim specs you have and a 245/45/17 tire... the 25MM pushed my tire almost beyond the fender lip. I think with a 30mm you are really going to be out there.

And the Mazdas have the same 5 x 4.5" lug pattern?

Do you have a ready source for the spacers?

In your example, I'm thinking you have it right. You would be adding the 1" on both sides. To do it any other way would alter the offset. The problem I found my my quest is the original wheels didn't have the same offset. So my +24 rims w/ a 1" spacer could use just a taste more spacer in the rear and less spacer in the front. Right now my front wheels are extending our of the wheel wells (a look I hate.

In the Starion the loom went from the passenger ( car's right hand side ) out to the right front, across the radiator support bracket, around behind the battery in the car's left front corner and then over to the engine. That might explain why you have 4' of extra loom. Perhaps you can mount the computer in the trunk! LOL

With the white Cobra R's ... what size tire did you have? Ive got 17 x 9 OEM Cobra R's +24 and I don't think I can get by with much less than 12mm spacer.

Slow progress but progress none the less. Took the drive shaft to a machine shop so they could drill the rear end extension shaft to match. Only downside is they separated the driveshaft at the slip joint to do their work and gave me the drive shaft back in two parts. Not that slipping it back together is any problem, however, I am wondering, since they didn't index the shaft, if the balance is now off. More to follow on that. Got the extension shaft housing and the driveshaft into the car. Forgot to take pictures of the shaft and the setup underneath. (sigh) I'll be back under there in the near term anyway so I will get some pictures. But it all went in nicely with no interference. Looks like I might be able to easily fab up the factory shift linkage as well. (fingers crossed) Decided to put the Cobra Rs on it. 17x9 with a 24mm offset. I am using a 25mm spacer all around. Thinking I can get by with a 20mm spacer in the front. The front rims set out just a little more than I would like and I have room inside. Looking for a source for the 20mm spacer. Here is a pic I snapped after the work today. http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/Soup756/MemorialDay11001.jpg

Well... some more slow progress. Got the driveshaft and spacer from Driftmotion. I needed to have some machining done on this end to match the driveshaft flange to the input flange for the rear end. So I pulled off the extension shaft/housing, cleaned and painted it, and have it out to the machine shop. Also the spacer center hole wasn't large enough to work on the output flange of the transmission. Again, getting that machined now as well. Should have all the part back by this weekend and will take some pictures. If all goes well I will have the engine and rear end all tied together. Then it is time to tackle that damned wiring maze! UGH

88-89 ECM MD120127 $60 plus shipping. PM if interested.

NOS Water Coolant Pipe that runs from the thermostat housing to the turbo along the front of the engine. $40 plus shipping. PM if interested.

Just for interest... what are you doing in China?

As often as you've had tranmissions in and out of the car... do you have quick disconnect fittings on everything.... LOL

I think this line you are talking about is the coolant lines for the tranmssion. On my 2JZ the oil is water cooled through a "cooler" at the oil filter. The lines are integral to the engine cooling system. (if I recall without the motor in front of me) FWIW, since I am going with the Auto I am using the passenger side lower opening for the trans and the driver's side lower opening for the powersteering.

The lines from the transmission that run along the passenger side of the engine are the trans cooler lines. Just unbolt the bracket from the side of the engine and remove them with the transmission. The smaller hose from the waterpump is probably the hydro drive for the fan. You don't use that in our application. Pressure side of the power steering pump should run to the steering box. Low pressure out of the steering box should run through a cooler and from the cooler to the reservoir. There should be a low pressure line from the reservoir to the power steering pump. http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/Soup756/Conquest%202JZ%20Photos/My%202JZ/CleaningtheJZ004.jpg Two radiator hoses are easily visible... top coming across the motor... bottom coming down the passenger side. The smaller hose you speak of looks like an A/C or a Power Steering hose about mid engine sweeping across.

Does Carolina Driveshaft know that this is an IRS car? The all 4 wheels on the ground makes sense if the car has a live rear axle. I'm not understanding why it matters if the car is on jack stands with an IRS.

HVAC? You want heat? A/C?

HA.. now I'm trying to remember what I did with that pump. Not sure I still have mine in the car. (Tho I've not ditched anything yet) As for the Transmission... you have what I have.... That is the output flange. There is a rubber donut that bolts to that, that bolts to a similar 3 fingered flange on the drive shaft. I am looking for the donut and drive shaft side. I may have a solution working on the driveshaft anyway. Doing some research with a company in CA. I'll let you know more. As for length of our drive shaft. I would think with the Std driveshaft you might even have to shorten the OEM one. For my Auto I will need a slightly longer one than OEM and I need a slip joint in the middle. So looking at a custom drive shaft. Maybe I'll exchange some email with Carolina and see what they say.

While I don't have the wiring figured out by individual wire... the cut wire small plug is ok. you will use some wires in the bundle to splice to wires in the existing Mitsu harness. Mine didn't come with that small plug and I had to go get one. How about some informaton on the Carolina driveline?

Used a SAWZ-ALL (reciprocating saw) with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. Cut it with no problem. When the spacers are built for the rearend it will line up almost level with the rear end. May not be 100% exact. Remember a car with a live rear axle the pumpkin moves up and down with the axle. So the angle to the trans is constantly changing. There are parameters (degrees) beyond which you don't want to go but an offset is inevitable. Matter of fact some years ago I read that a small offset in the drive shaft is desirable. I think it was because of the way universal joints work.. they have to have some off set. The trans will be straight with the rear end side to side... but again, I may have a couple degrees variance in the vertical plane. Never heard of tipping the engine.