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Yes another 2JZGTE


serpentkilla
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lol far from ZMD but im green when it comes to the Supra upgrades. if you could give an example of the 700+ goal being done cheaper i would greatly appreciate it. almost got the money for the engine and tranny and by late spring should come into some more (good ol student loans lol thats why i went back to schoool)

 

http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum/showthread.php?t=87430&highlight=extra+meat

Here is a local supra owner with what you need. This is the same tuner I went to. I payed him to make my car leak power out the headgasket.

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thanks for the reply and after reviewing the thread. great info. now all i need is money... i have some parts from a past project 2jz fc with the help from 2jzswap.com

 

so would a rear sump oil pan be better for fitment? or would it hit fire wall?

 

would a stock radiator fit on the outside or would i need to get a new one?

 

well thanks for all your guys help this is gonna be a great place to turn to for this swap.. eventually we should get a step by step ;)

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thanks for the reply and after reviewing the thread. great info. now all i need is money... i have some parts from a past project 2jz fc with the help from 2jzswap.com

 

so would a rear sump oil pan be better for fitment? or would it hit fire wall?

 

would a stock radiator fit on the outside or would i need to get a new one?

 

well thanks for all your guys help this is gonna be a great place to turn to for this swap.. eventually we should get a step by step http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif

 

 

you want to get a front sump, the stock rad would fit on the outside but you will still have to make a bracket for it. I would not trust that thing anyways.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just an update, car is still running like a dream. Had an issue with the battery overheating, i thought it was the alternator but come to find out it was the battery x2. I've since done the tru twin mod, bcc and boost controller. i'm running about 16 lbs. The car feels awesome, around 45-50mph when you stomp on it, it breaks the a** end loose. scared the s*** outta me the first time it happened but now it's common place. I know to be ready to counter steer lol. I also installed my pioneer avic900bt that i had sitting for 8 months and back up camera. Clutch has settled in fine, still chatters a little bit but i can live with it. Next big thing i'm working is the body but in the main time im gonna be replacing the gauges (speedo & tach). Having a hard time figuring out whether i was to go with cyberdyne digital gauges or with the autometer analogs.

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18558_1247173105577_1416909227_30746894_3454384_n.jpghttp://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs158.snc3/18558_1247173265581_1416909227_30746898_3172661_n.jpg

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http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/cyb-c241e351n_w.jpghttp://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/cyb-c255e351n_w.jpg

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/atm-4488.jpghttp://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/atm-4497.jpg

This is what i was thinking about. Let me know what you guys think

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Thanks for the update!

 

I am not a fan of digital gauges but it is probably because I'm old. Digital gauges need to be "read" for me to interpret the information. That makes it difficult to do a gauge scan to see if things are as they should be. I don't need to "READ" an analog gauge I can just tell by the position of the needles if all is well or if I need to look more closely.

 

Also, when using a TACH for shifting, I'm not reading numbers... I'm watching a needle that is sweeping towards a bar (the shift indicator) and timing my physical reactions based upon the rate of advance and the interpreted time when the needle will meet the shift indicator.

 

Finally, I think digital gauges look like a**! But, as I said, I'm old, I like analog!

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Thanks for the update!

 

I am not a fan of digital gauges but it is probably because I'm old. Digital gauges need to be "read" for me to interpret the information. That makes it difficult to do a gauge scan to see if things are as they should be. I don't need to "READ" an analog gauge I can just tell by the position of the needles if all is well or if I need to look more closely.

 

Also, when using a TACH for shifting, I'm not reading numbers... I'm watching a needle that is sweeping towards a bar (the shift indicator) and timing my physical reactions based upon the rate of advance and the interpreted time when the needle will meet the shift indicator.

 

Finally, I think digital gauges look like a**! But, as I said, I'm old, I like analog!

 

LOL Keep em coming, your not that old are u?

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LOL Keep em coming, your not that old are u?

 

as we talked the other day

analog is the way to go, u dont want to have to think about the digital even though they may be PRETTY, function is the main priority to the gauges

 

and i really like hte radio/heater control setup u did, i think im giong to copy It :) , just kidding, i dont have any plan s of a big screen/monitor/radio in the car

 

talk to ya

 

dan

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the speedo is on the left but what do you have on the right? Is that the tach? I couldn't make out the numbers are they were 3 digit...

 

The tach is on the right. about 2300rpm.

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nice man, nice. What brand are the other gauges(3 in the center)? I've been looking at prosports lately cause they're kinda cheap and still what I want.. Its those or autometers for me... Defi's would be the first option if I was loaded...
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