Well, I have another quest, UUGH! Major oil in the intakes

[Dad]

I'm laughing but at myself

 

This is the picture I should have posted I was think about something completely different but that plunger can stick by the way I'd check it to.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM003304.JPG

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/83oilpumps.jpg

 

the part number is on this page I'd just get a new pump or possible someone took that valve apart and put the piston in wrong or had some wild idea they could put the stick from the timing chain tensioner under the relief valve plunger instead and that would prevent the valve from opening.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/Oil%20Pu1.gif

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/tsb%2009-09-85%20pg2.jpg

 

 

 

LOL, Been there myself- glad to see you corrected.

 

Dad

[garychoffmann]

OK guys, I'm trouble shooting today. So far, I have no oil seperator hooked and no nipple on my hard pipe going to run one to. So I have to modify it do I can hook one up. Now here's my next question. How would oil be getting all the way to the turbo from the crankcase if it was bad rings, broken ring land etc. I'm trouble shooting the car. Rock solid steady idle, no smoke. I took off the line right at the turbo and checked that out and there was quite a bit of oil in there. I sprayed brake cleaner in there and cleaned it out a bit I let it idle and watched to see if the level came up any. No real change in the level. I have really high oil pressure. I still am thinking the turbo seal may have gone bad but not 100% on that one. I figured the oil level would have gone up. Still trouble shooting the oil in the intakes so any help is appreciated. Waiting on my compression tester to come back from my friends house. Where do you think I should go from here? I'm going to hook up an oil catch can and see what happens from there. Gonna go ahead and flush the engine. Hopefully I can figure this one out. Thanks for any help and I'll keep playing with it.

[garychoffmann]

Started it up and let it warm up. about 20 seconds in the oil pressure starts to wobble. So I shut it down. Look underneath the car and it's just a puddle of oil. I take the oil filter off and do an oil change figuring I didn't put the oil filter on tight enough. I put on a new oil filter and start it up, same damn thing happens. wt.... this car is cursed. It's night time so I can't really investigate.

 

On a side note. Good compression across the board! Hooray.

 

I'm about to junk a rust free car.

 

Are wix filters a bad filter to use? Had a fram on it.

 

I'm really getting tired of this damn car.

[ucw458]

Don't give up. You'll feel so much better once you get it fixed. You might regret parting it later. Check the turbo drainback tube. It will bleed alot of oil if it's broken or loose.

[garychoffmann]

I'll doubtfully part it. I'm just pissed. Looking at it it looks like someone cross threaded a filter on there at some point

[Starfighterpilot]

I guess I have to ask some questions on this one.

 

1) What year and model is your Starquest?

 

2) Did it originally come intercooled or was the intercooler a mod? Probably does not mean anything, but I just thought I'd ask.

 

3) Have you hooked up the turbo coolant return hose correctly. As you probably know, it's the metal tube that comes off of the outboard turbo banjo bolt, that goes to the hose that's plugged with a bolt you showed in one of your pictures.

 

4) Shelby asked the question of where does the turbo coolant return line dump back into the coolant system. I cannot find an answer to that question in any of your responses.

 

5) Have you removed and cleaned out the intercooler with mineral oil and blown the snot out of it with air to remove the quart(s) of oil which are probably in it.

 

6) Have you pulled the turbo oil return tubing and hose to verify that there are no obstructions in 'em? You said that you are getting a new oil return hose from DAD. WHY?

 

7) What were your cylinder compression readings?

 

8) When you got the oil pressure "wooble," and after you changed the oil filter and got the oil leak, WHERE is the oil leaking from?

 

9) Do you have Two rubber seals between the filter adapter and the filter?

 

WIX is one of the best oil filters on the Market. I use the NAPA Gold 1356 which is a WIX filter and over the past 20 years have never had a problem. Fram filters are JUNK. I had 2 FRAMS blow out on me back in the '60 & 70's; and their back flow check valve SUCKS.

 

10) Where is your mechanical oil pressure guage, that you are getting your oil pressure readings from, hooked up on the engine?

 

I THINK THAT IF YOU ANSWER EACH THOSE QUESTIONS WE CAN START TO HELP YOU.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS If the TB is getting such a large shot of oil when you rev the engine up, even with the intercooler by passed, the plugs must be totally oil fouled. I don't see how the engine could idle smooth; and at least, not blow blue smoke out of the tail pipe.

 

PPS Personally, I think that you ought to go to the Parts Wanted Forum and see if you can buy a OEM MITSU Oil Separator System, clean out the separator canister, and hook it up correctly.

Edited December 21, 2008 by Starfighterpilot

[garychoffmann]

I guess I have to ask some questions on this one.

 

1) What year and model is your Starquest?

 

body is an 87, 86-89 parts are on the vehicle

 

2) Did it originally come intercooled or was the intercooler a mod? Probably does not mean anything, but I just thought I'd ask.

 

Intercooler should have been on an 87

 

3) Have you hooked up the turbo coolant return hose correctly. As you probably know, it's the metal tube that comes off of the outboard turbo banjo bolt, that goes to the hose that's plugged with a bolt you showed in one of your pictures.

 

Hose still plugged.

 

4) Shelby asked the question of where does the turbo coolant return line dump back into the coolant system. I cannot find an answer to that question in any of your responses.

 

3 lines are coming off the housing there. It's returning right below the plugged one.

 

5) Have you removed and cleaned out the intercooler with mineral oil and blown the snot out of it with air to remove the quart(s) of oil which are probably in it.

 

Intercooler has been soaked, hung so everything would run out. blown out with compressor.

 

6) Have you pulled the turbo oil return tubing and hose to verify that there are no obstructions in 'em? You said that you are getting a new oil return hose from DAD. WHY?

 

Not a big fan of heater hose for a return line.

 

7) What were your cylinder compression readings?

 

cyl 1 range 131-147 peak 151, cyl 2 range 129-144 peak 149, cyl 3 range 135-144 peak 150, cyl 4 range 127-141 peak 144 readins done on 7 sec burst. recorded 332 rpm

 

8) When you got the oil pressure "wooble," and after you changed the oil filter and got the oil leak, WHERE is the oil leaking from?

 

The oil is coming from in between the oil filter housing and the filter.

 

9) Do you have Two rubber seals between the filter adapter and the filter?

 

Didn't really look for that, Why would there be 2 rubber seals? understand the one on the filter? is there supposed to be one on the adapter?

 

WIX is one of the best oil filters on the Market. I use the NAPA Gold 1356 which is a WIX filter and over the past 20 years have never had a problem. Fram filters are JUNK. I had 2 FRAMS blow out on me back in the '60 & 70's; and their back flow check valve SUCKS.

 

10) Where is your mechanical oil pressure guage, that you are getting your oil pressure readings from, hooked up on the engine? mechanical gauge is on the dash for now. I can monitor both from drivers seat.

 

Haven't been able to source out where it's connected just yet. It's pushing huge psi though. My stock gauge is pegged most of the time.

 

I THINK THAT IF YOU ANSWER EACH THOSE QUESTIONS WE CAN START TO HELP YOU.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS If the TB is getting such a large shot of oil when you rev the engine up, even with the intercooler by passed, the plugs must be totally oil fouled. I don't see how the engine could idle smooth; and at least, not blow blue smoke out of the tail pipe.

 

I replaced the plugs with rx-7 (trailing) ngk's I like the design and no foul plugs better. Better mushroom when it sparks also. No smoke coming out, Idles rock solid, no searching or hunting, just idles as it should. A little high, but solid.

 

PPS Personally, I think that you ought to go to the Parts Wanted Forum and see if you can buy a OEM MITSU Oil Separator System, clean out the separator canister, and hook it up correctly.

 

Understandable, but a oil catch can is the same thing. one line goes in off the valve cover. One goes to my non existent nipple before the turbo, third line drains into the block. I like this particular can because it has a clear hose on the side so you can see how much oil is actually going into the catch can.

 

 

Thanks for the help

Edited December 21, 2008 by garychoffmann

[Indiana]

That sending unit you see screwed into the filter adapter, does it appear to be an original part or aftermarket? There are aftermarket sending units that could give false readings. Is the non oem gauge on your dash a "L" to "H" reading gauge or is it a numeric gauge and what does it read at idle when cold? Should be about 80psi but drop to about 15 when warmed up but if you rev the motor up it will go back up to about 80. Stock gauge could be whacked. Does the filter that is on the valve cover appear to be brand new or very new? Its still possible that the oil was already in the intercooler and some was laying in the compressor housing. The part about two rubber seals on the filter adapter after the oil filter is that its not impossible to have an old oring stick on the adapter from an old filter then the new filter adds its oring and you end up with two and it leaks oil. Its possible there is a blockage in the main oil galley that is keeping the volume of oil low and making the high pressure but without seeing it in person it can be frustrating to want to help and know some answers but not know the question.

[Starfighterpilot]

I have been looking at the FSM, page 9-4, Lubrication System.

 

I'm going with Indiana's suggestion that the oil pump oil pressure (relief) or regulating valve is not functioning properly. See page 9- 13 of the FSM - it says if the oil pressure is too high - repair the relief valve.

 

If it was me, that is where I would start. I would pull the engine timing cover and then pull the oil pump relief/regulating valve assembly out of the oil pump and see how it was assembled and the condition of it's parts. You don't have to pull the oil pump to do this.

 

Or the oil pump relief valve spring may be the wrong one.

 

I believe that you can still buy all of the parts for that valve assembly without buying a whole new oil pump.

 

If that valve assembly appears to be good and not binding within the regulating valve "bore," then that opens up an entirely different game plan.

 

You will have to remove the pump to verify the following:

 

Is the valve oil dump port/passage blocked by crud in the pump body?

 

Is the oil pump gasket for the oil pump mating surface to the block correctly installed and not covering any oil passages?

 

Is there any gasket sealant over any oil passage holes?

 

If all of the above are satisfactory, then I would start looking at a blocked oil passage within the block. Are the hydraulic lifters "clicking" now when you are at idle engine speed?

 

For a start. At least you will eliminate the oil pump as the source of your oil pressure problem. Right now you are just rolling craps.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS BTW I would hook that turbo coolant return line back up where it belongs and figure out what should be connected to the place where it is now connected. And I would find where your mechanical oil pressure guage is actually hooked up on the block, if it is not at the OEM location.

 

PPS another reason that you have the oil leak at the oil filter adapter is that the adapter mounting bolt may be loose or the adapter to block may have one or both of o-rings pinched. The proper bolt torque value is 29 - 36 FT LBS as noted on FSM, Page 9-51.

 

PPPS Get your oil pressure down to where it should be and repair your oil leak FIRST!! THEN the oil in the intercooler tubing/hoses has to be addressed.

Edited December 21, 2008 by Starfighterpilot

[Starfighterpilot]

OK guys, I'm trouble shooting today. I took off the line right at the turbo and checked that out and there was quite a bit of oil in there. I sprayed brake cleaner in there and cleaned it out a bit I let it idle and watched to see if the level came up any. No real change in the level. I have really high oil pressure. I still am thinking the turbo seal may have gone bad but not 100% on that one. I figured the oil level would have gone up.

 

In addition to my above post, I had another BRAIN FART. I got tired of PPPS'ing

 

How did you see if the oil level came up in the turbo oil housing, when the engine is idling, with the turbo oil supply line disconnected? THERE IS NO OIL GOING TO THE TURBO!

 

The turbo oil cavity should be empty of oil if the engine is not running. The turbo oil return line comes off of the bottom of the turbo oil cavity and it's at least 10 times bigger in diameter than the turbo oil supply line. If you have an oil level in the oil cavity, with the engine stopped, then you have MAJOR blockage in the turbo oil return line.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[garychoffmann]

Thanks again guys. Well to answer a few more questions. First is that I was monitoring oil coming into the charge pipe at the compressor housing output. I was using a clear 2 inch pipe in between the hardpipe and the compressor housing so I could watch and see if oil started to puddle in the compressor housing. A bad turbo oil leak on the compressor side would puddle there, and once the turbine would spool it would throw it out. Hope that makes more sense of where I was checking for oil.

 

The aftermarket oil pressure gauge is tied into the block at about 2 o'clock relative to where the stock one should be hooked up on the oil filter housing. My factory sender is there but the connector is not attached. So I have not been able to find where my factory gauge is hooked up. I need to start looking on the other side of the engine where it may have been tapped into. Would I get a different reading from these 2 spots?

 

Going to look into removing the timing cover soon. It's 11 degrees out so it's not fun working on it today.

 

My oil leak was caused by having 2 bad wix filters. Both of then had flaws in the rubber o rings. I put a fram on for now since it was available and it's fine now.

 

Car was idling at 1100 rpm's and had 55-60psi of pressure. But when I rev it goes back up to 100. Factory gauge is just sitting pegged out. It goes up slow so I'm thinking the stocker may just be done.

 

Turbo water drain line is tied into the wrap around pipe. It's a draw pipe so for now it should be fine.

 

Here's something else I noticed. Doesn't always want to start, think the ignition switch may be going bad.

 

This car rocks.

[Starfighterpilot]

Thanks again guys. Well to answer a few more questions. First is that I was monitoring oil coming into the charge pipe at the compressor housing output. I was using a clear 2 inch pipe in between the hardpipe and the compressor housing so I could watch and see if oil started to puddle in the compressor housing. A bad turbo oil leak on the compressor side would puddle there, and once the turbine would spool it would throw it out. Hope that makes more sense of where I was checking for oil.

 

HUH??? Do you have a digital camera? If so take a picture of this set up cuz, for the life of me, I CANNOT visualize what you are doing.

 

 

Turbo water drain line is tied into the wrap around pipe. It's a draw pipe so for now it should be fine.

 

WHERE IS IT "TIED INTO THE WRAP AROUND PIPE." What is the wrap around pipe? Got a picture?

 

WTH is a draw pipe? I have NEVER heard of that automotive term in my 63 years of life.

 

Inspect your oil pump as I denoted in the above post. If you don't, everything else is PURE SPECULATION and everyone's time is being wasted.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS I think that you should use the SAME terms and component names that are used in the FSM and the Parts Catalog!!! That way you keep people from guessing what you are talking about, and it will resolve your problem FASTER.

Edited December 21, 2008 by Starfighterpilot

[ucw458]

HUH??? Do you have a digital camera? If so take a picture of this set up cuz, for the life of me, I CANNOT visualize what you are doing.

 

I belive he's talking about the compressor outlet. A piece of clear pipe on the compressor outlet would let you see if oil is leaking out of it.

 

 

 

 

WHERE IS IT "TIED INTO THE WRAP AROUND PIPE." What is the wrap around pipe? Got a picture?

 

WTH is a draw pipe? I have NEVER heard of that automotive term in my 63 years of life.

 

He is talking about the heater core return hardpipe that wraps around the back of the block. A DRAW pipe is a pipe leading to the inlet of a pump. This term in not automotive specific but applies to all pumps.

 

Not hard to figure out what he is talking about.

 

[garychoffmann]

As far as where I was checking for oil. I was checking at the turbo output (Air output) I have hardpipes on my car. The easiest way I can describe it is where the hardpipe meets to the turbo. I was using a 3 inch long coupler out of clear drainage plastic pipe. So if you were looking at the turbo you would see the compressor housing exiting into a clear 3 inch long "coupler" made out of the clear drainage plastic pipe, going into the hard pipe that wraps around the air cleaner. Basically I just made a clear coupler. That way I could view through the coupler for oil accumulation.

 

I hope that clears that up. If not I can put it back on there for a pic

 

 

The turbo coolant is exiting into the heater pipe assembly, which on an 88 would be the proper place for the coolant to exit. Per FSM It's been called wrap around pipe on a few different vehicles since it wraps around the back. Sorry for the miscommunication.

 

 

I'm going to get to the oil pump as soon as I can. It's freezing here and I can take the cold for short periods of time. I'm leaning towards the pressure relief valve but I will have to wait for a bit better weather.

 

 

[Dcrasta]

You replied the factory oil pressure sender was not hooked up, but later said the gauge was pegged. I believe this may be the fault condition if the 1 harness wire is not connected to the sending unit. It should be a female spade (in a plastic sheath) on the harness near the oil filter.

 

What is your oil pressure per the mechanical gauge? Can you give numbers at idle and 3000 rpms?

 

You probably need to get the turbo rebuilt in addition to verifying the oil pump pressure relief is functioning correctly.

 

[Starfighterpilot]

He is talking about the heater core return hardpipe that wraps around the back of the block. A DRAW pipe is a pipe leading to the inlet of a pump. This term in not automotive specific but applies to all pumps.

 

Not hard to figure out what he is talking about.

 

I normally do not go off like this, BUT..................."applies to all pumps" is BS.

 

Sorry guy. I have been designing piping systems, operating and repairing pumps and piping systems, among varied other pursuits, since 1964. The correct ANSI "piping" terminology is either the return header or pump suction header/piping. I have never heard of a "DRAW PIPE" being used for that application. What "draw" means to me may have an entirely different definition to you!!

 

In Mitsu's case, the component in question is called a Heater Pipe Assembly. Japs, back then, did it different.

 

If you want help, call the Starquest's components by their correct MITSU terminology/name; ie down load the FSM and Parts Catalog READ IT and USE IT!

 

Interpretation of YOUR inaccurate terms leads to false information given or everyone else chasing their tails trying to figure out WTH you mean.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited December 21, 2008 by Starfighterpilot

[ucw458]

I normally do not go off like this, BUT..................."applies to all pumps" is BS.

 

Sorry guy. I have been designing piping systems, operating and repairing pumps and piping systems, among varied other pursuits, since 1964. The correct ANSI "piping" terminology is either the return header or pump suction header/piping. I have never heard of a "DRAW PIPE" being used for that application. What "draw" means to me may have an entirely different definition to you!!

 

In Mitsu's case, the component in question is called a Heater Pipe Assembly. Japs, back then, did it different.

 

If you want help, call the Starquest's components by their correct MITSU terminology/name; ie down load the FSM and Parts Catalog READ IT and USE IT!

 

Interpretation of YOUR inaccurate terms leads to false information given or everyone else chasing their tails trying to figure out WTH you mean.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

First don't get upset because you couldn't follow the conversation and someone tried to explain it to you. Second "draw pipe" is a slang term. I've heard piping experts use this term on many conversations. Just because it doesn't follow your by the book guidlines on naming things doesn't mean it's not a name people use. I'm sorry if you got offended when I tried to explain his statement to you. Not everyone has an ANSI book in front of them. Furthermore not everyone has a copy of a Mitsu shop manual in front of them either. So pardon us if we do the best we can to describe the part in question and can't describe every part "By The Book".

[ucw458]

BTW "JAPS" is an offensive term please don't use it.

[garychoffmann]

You replied the factory oil pressure sender was not hooked up, but later said the gauge was pegged. I believe this may be the fault condition if the 1 harness wire is not connected to the sending unit. It should be a female spade (in a plastic sheath) on the harness near the oil filter.

 

I searched for it today and it's gone. I don't know where it was cut off at but I'll have to find it.

 

What is your oil pressure per the mechanical gauge? Can you give numbers at idle and 3000 rpms?

 

 

 

Well the gauge is a electrical gauge so I'm going to get a mechanical tomorrow. It's a prosport gauge with electrical sender, they are normally known for being accurate but we'll see.It's reading 60psi at idle and 110+ at 3k

 

You probably need to get the turbo rebuilt in addition to verifying the oil pump pressure relief is functioning correctly.

 

Turbo has very little shaft play or in out motion. I didn't see any leaks so I'm going to let it be for right now. Cars not smoking and it does spool. We'll see where it goes from here.

 

 

Car will hopefully have a mechanical gauge installed tomorrow

[Indiana]

You may not have any problems with the engine from what you have added. It would appear that the turbo oil feed location from the filter adapter is where someone has put some sending unit for oil pressure. That being a NON OEM sending unit, for example if it has a female plug on it there are some that are no compatible cause I've tried them and there are some that are. If that was for a different car and someone thought they could use it then that may be the only problem. The wire in the harness that goes to the sending unit come from the passenger side frame rail area, it also has one other wire in that same sleeve, its light gray, and it is the knock sensor. These two wires terminate differently, the knock sensor has a barrel connector and the oin sending unit has a female spade terminal inside a white plastic holder. You should be able to see these two wires coming off the frame rail, the knock sensor and its barrel connector clip into a holder underneath the oil filter, the only other wire in that section of the harness, and its about 15" long, is the one for the oil sending unit that is wired for the instrument cluster gauge. If that wire is shorting out to ground then that will peg your gauge, or burn it out cause you are to use a test light on that wire and ground it for one way to check to see if your gauge is functional or the harness is bad. Where you suppose they are feeding oil to the turbo from? There is a reason the turbo oil feed is located in the filter adapter its to assure oil pressure and volume get to the turbo even if the rest of the block is oil starved because that is the first thing that comes out of the oil filter that is supplied with oil.

 

You seem to have found your oil leak problem that is good

 

You appear to have one of the turbo coolant hoses attached but one is not and here's what I am going to assume, which I don't believe in always doing but it is that you have an early bypass tube and it has that turbo coolant connection and someone bought the more expensive water pump. Later on, sometime in 87 Mitus changed that bypass tube and eliminate the Y off the front end of it that was for the turbo coolant line and moved it to the water pump. If someone has the early tube and the later water pump then yes you are going to have to plug one of those ports and it looks like they did, with a stub hose and a bolt.

 

Now you are left with the oil blowing from the compressor housing and that goes back to one question I asked earlier. Does that filter on the valve cover appear to be NEW? If someone had a clogged or improperly hooked up separator and recently removed it all and did not wash out the intercooler and the compressor housing that is why it has oil in it and your front oil seal on the turbine shaft may be fine. It will take some time for the oil to blow out. You mentioned the intercooler was already out and washed correct?

 

SO, to sum this up:

You may have two coolant ports for the turbo and you only need one of them

Your sending unit is wrong and not compatible throwing the gauge readings off

You intercooler plumbing was not washed after the separator was removed and the car sold just afterwards

 

Sound plausible?

 

Sometimes when ignorant people get under the hood of a car they can screw things up but not really cause much damage but and that can result in someone getting a great deal on a car. I got an 88 Sttarion for super cheap years ago that wouldn't idle for crap, smoked like a train and wouldn't drive of boost and after I made the deal I switched the two vacuum hoses that were wrong at the throttlebody and capped of the one that should have been and it drove on to the trailer great after I ran it down the road and blew the crap out of the exhaust and the guy I got it from was NOT happy -but I was.

 

 

[garychoffmann]

You may not have any problems with the engine from what you have added. It would appear that the turbo oil feed location from the filter adapter is where someone has put some sending unit for oil pressure. That being a NON OEM sending unit, for example if it has a female plug on it there are some that are no compatible cause I've tried them and there are some that are. If that was for a different car and someone thought they could use it then that may be the only problem. The wire in the harness that goes to the sending unit come from the passenger side frame rail area, it also has one other wire in that same sleeve, its light gray, and it is the knock sensor. These two wires terminate differently, the knock sensor has a barrel connector and the oin sending unit has a female spade terminal inside a white plastic holder. You should be able to see these two wires coming off the frame rail, the knock sensor and its barrel connector clip into a holder underneath the oil filter, the only other wire in that section of the harness, and its about 15" long, is the one for the oil sending unit that is wired for the instrument cluster gauge. If that wire is shorting out to ground then that will peg your gauge, or burn it out cause you are to use a test light on that wire and ground it for one way to check to see if your gauge is functional or the harness is bad. Where you suppose they are feeding oil to the turbo from? There is a reason the turbo oil feed is located in the filter adapter its to assure oil pressure and volume get to the turbo even if the rest of the block is oil starved because that is the first thing that comes out of the oil filter that is supplied with oil. Sounds like we are on the same page here, the factory sender is still in the factory location, just not hooked up. If your looking at that sender and look above it a bit, in the block is a port that has the other electrical sender. I've done some research on my aftermarket gauges and the main problem people have with these gauges are poor readings on the high side. Not to mention that the sender is covered in oil. I'm going to hook up a good mechanical gauge tomorrow and get a good reading.

 

You seem to have found your oil leak problem that is good

 

You appear to have one of the turbo coolant hoses attached but one is not and here's what I am going to assume, which I don't believe in always doing but it is that you have an early bypass tube and it has that turbo coolant connection and someone bought the more expensive water pump. Later on, sometime in 87 Mitus changed that bypass tube and eliminate the Y off the front end of it that was for the turbo coolant line and moved it to the water pump. If someone has the early tube and the later water pump then yes you are going to have to plug one of those ports and it looks like they did, with a stub hose and a bolt.

 

After some research, I figured that out about 2 minutes before I came back to this page. Should have just waited to here from you

 

Now you are left with the oil blowing from the compressor housing and that goes back to one question I asked earlier. Does that filter on the valve cover appear to be NEW? If someone had a clogged or improperly hooked up separator and recently removed it all and did not wash out the intercooler and the compressor housing that is why it has oil in it and your front oil seal on the turbine shaft may be fine. It will take some time for the oil to blow out. You mentioned the intercooler was already out and washed correct?

 

The filter on the top seems to be in good shape and at close inspection, the chrome netting is all chrome and it looks pretty damn new

 

SO, to sum this up:

You may have two coolant ports for the turbo and you only need one of them

Your sending unit is wrong and not compatible throwing the gauge readings off

You intercooler plumbing was not washed after the separator was removed and the car sold just afterwards

 

Sound plausible? Yes, thanks!!!

 

Sometimes when ignorant people get under the hood of a car they can screw things up but not really cause much damage but and that can result in someone getting a great deal on a car. I got an 88 Sttarion for super cheap years ago that wouldn't idle for crap, smoked like a train and wouldn't drive of boost and after I made the deal I switched the two vacuum hoses that were wrong at the throttlebody and capped of the one that should have been and it drove on to the trailer great after I ran it down the road and blew the crap out of the exhaust and the guy I got it from was NOT happy -but I was.

 

Thats the only way to buy one of these cars. I also got the clutch to disengage today, just had to adjust the bolt on the back of the pedal. It has the starquest freeplay on the cotter pin bolt so I'll address that soon enough. It looks like the car may be on a test drive in the next couple of days as long as a new oil pressure gauge says I'm good. Hooray. I also cleaned and fixed a few incorrect wires today. I'd guess I only have 6,723 hacked up wires to redo, solder and shrink wrap. Along with everything else.

Thanks guys, I should be silent for a few days, tomorrow is my B-day so I get to do whatever I want so I should be able to spend some time on my starion

[garychoffmann]

is one of these wires the one that goes to the oil sender? coming off right at the frame rail

 

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0467.jpg

[jahjah]

is one of these wires the one that goes to the oil sender? coming off right at the frame rail

 

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0467.jpg

 

oh man..... it almost hurts to see this car after all the love and blood and sweat i put into it... oh and cash, dont forget about all the cash i put into it lol

 

Anyways lets see...

 

Before i sold it, it had a mechanical gauge so i was not worried about the stock gauge reading. and i swapped to that electrical gauge which never gave me any problems...

 

 

The car has Hyper-t pistons. I know that if you don't ring them properly or run high boost you destroy the ring lands. It's not smoking but I have to drive it before I can really tell. I'm going to lean towards pistons/rings.

 

When the block was worked the machine shop that did my boring knew that they were Hyper-U pistons so i assume they did the correct gapping. I also never drove over 14 psi on those pistons

 

 

I never go off a factory gauge, This car had mechanical gauges installed. I need to see where it's tapped.

 

it was tapered right above the oil filter location near the front Timing cover.

 

 

 

On a side note. Good compression across the board! Hooray.

 

I'm about to junk a rust free car.

 

I'm glad to hear the compression is good! that was a pretty solid build when i did it.

 

if you junk it I'd like the oil cap back

 

It looks like its been destroyed by previous owners. i wish i could help more.

 

oh.... and theres a funny story about something that is written on that exhaust pipe.... take a look sometime

[garychoffmann]

Saw the exhaust, It made me laugh. It has 2 holes in it though so it's going to have to leave us soon. Well I have the oil pressure in check. Hooked up a second oil pressure gauge in the engine bay and it idles at about 30 and sits 70-75 at 3000 rpm.

 

Prosport senders are known for failing, Cool gauges just abit on the cheap side.

 

Still don't know where the oil is coming from. Theres no more coming out so I'll assume that it has to be driving under boost. Put on a new pvc, other one didn't pass the blow test and all sorts of shite came out. I just drilled the intake pipe for an oil seperator system. I'm using an aftermarket one and I'm going to attach clear lines for now. Just so I can see whats going on and how much is travelling to and fro. (it's temp)

 

Clean up the wires, clean everything out and we'll see where I go from here. Hopefully take it on a test drive soon. Adjusted the clutch so it's fully disengaging now.

 

Wish me luck,

 

 

[garychoffmann]

JAHJAH If I find a decent oil cap I'll send yours back. PM me your address.

 

Just ordered one, if it fits, I'll send yours back

Edited December 22, 2008 by garychoffmann