Lives4Speed Posted April 22, 2002 Report Share Posted April 22, 2002 I do not know if this is a good idea but, Let's have some opinions on replacement clutches for daily drivers stock HP, under 350HP, and over 350HP. Here we go :-/, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted April 22, 2002 Report Share Posted April 22, 2002 ACT extreme p/pl with organic disc. For both over 350 and under! kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted April 23, 2002 Report Share Posted April 23, 2002 RPS Turbo Clutch. Maxx Torque PP for higher HP. I haven't run mine yet, but I do know that at least the guy who runs the place will give me the time of day, and talk to me. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monk Posted April 23, 2002 Report Share Posted April 23, 2002 ok...say i have a small amount of money to spend...200$..what clutch should i buy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinx Posted April 24, 2002 Report Share Posted April 24, 2002 meant to post this a few months ago. Is anyone running one on a starquest. I've heard nothing but good things from people using the stage 2 and stage 3, on moded turbo cars.... 2.3 fords and nissan 240sx / sr20det turbo swaps they have our application http://www.specpwr.com/ * Stage 1 is mainly an upgrade to the factory clutch and includes steel-backed organic disc with 50% more holding power than a standard factory clutch. * Stage 2 has a Kevlar disc for mild street racing applications. This clutch is not built for engines with a lot of torque and horsepower. This clutch is for those looking for more than just a factory upgrade. * Stage 3 is a high pressure clutch with a carbonic disc for turbo, nitrous, street racing, and drag racing. This is the most popular clutch for racing yet can be used in your everyday street car. * Stage 4 is for turbo and nitrous with extreme horsepower. This is a super high-pressure clutch with a rigid ceramic three-button disc. This is for racing applications only! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarioG Posted April 26, 2002 Report Share Posted April 26, 2002 The main feature you want for driveability is an organic disc, i.e. no bronze/ceramic pucs. They tend have very harsh engagement. I have been using an ACT extreme pressure plate (2700psi) with an organic RX7 turbo disc. I am running a T04E 60 trim with an MPFI, and I have not had any slippage issues, however I do not launch or race the car. About RPS, when I was building my engine I was told by RPS that they do not manufacture their turbo pressure plate for the Conquest any more. From what I understand its equivalent to the ACT preassure plate anyway. Hope that helps, Mario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted April 26, 2002 Report Share Posted April 26, 2002 Yeah, I looked into the ACT. Yes, their PP is the best choice as I can see, but the discs are way too agressive if you get ones that are pucked like that. They chew up flywheels, and the pressure plates very, very fast. If they are streetable, then I guarantee they won't last long. The one to get is their organic disc, but they have a $524 price tag on that baby. It's the only one they offer that will last very long. I decided to just go with TEP's Street Version, instead of the S/strip one. The one they offer that says, "a bit grabby but you'll get used to it", is a solid hub disc! Steve says you really can't run it on the street w/o a very jerky take off, which eats the PP, & flywheel even worse. Heck, the Street Clutch of theirs is only $335, and has a disc that will last almost as long as stock. Sure, you can replace the inserts on the Fidanza, but I don't want to go there as often. Plus, with the Fidanza, the clutch life should be increased. Anyway, 275HP clutch for $335 seems good to me, and I really didn't have the cash to go with more. I guess MPI & more HP dictates the need for the ACT more, but just don't expect them to last unless you fork out the $524 for the organic disk. Tim C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted April 26, 2002 Report Share Posted April 26, 2002 I have the ACT extreme p/pl and organic disc and the whole set only cost me $440 through cyberauto.com. Â Where did you see $500 just for the disc? kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted April 26, 2002 Report Share Posted April 26, 2002 The key to the 6 puck copper disks is getting them with a sprung hub so they aren't so aggressive on the street. I opted for the clutchnet 6 puck copper sprung hub. Check out clutchnet.com they offer a few nice clutches for our cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted April 27, 2002 Report Share Posted April 27, 2002 It was $524 for the set on ACT's web site. I've just had bad experiences with the pucked discs. Spring hub. But, it's been a couple of years, so maybe they are better now. Got my Fidanza today. My machinist is going to balance it with the clutch, even though they are said to be balanced already to zero. Almost all clutches are not in balance very well. The Jap ones are better. My machinist says it's the best aluminum flywheel he's seen. Also, the Fidanzas take both size clutches it looks like to me. The PP mounting holes, and the dowel holes are there. Mike K.: I figured you didn't go with the ACT disc options. They just looked like they would tear up the flywhel and pressure plate. Those fan blade styles are pretty aggressive that way. I knew a guy who ran a 9 second '69 Camaro, and he would go through those things about twice a season, and when they go, you replace the flywheel, pressure plate, and disc. The Fidanza isn't as bad since you can swap a new insert in, so I guess the fan blade pucks aren't too bad of a choice. Especially if they are the only ones that will get you there strength wise. Tim C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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