MarioG

These are stock rods with about 5000 miles of street use since being fully prepared for race use. They have been shot peened, magnafluxed, beam polished, balanced, small ends bushed for floating pins, with ARP rod bolts. Best offer, located in NJ. E-mail me at grassom@gmail.com for pics. Thanks, Mario.

These are the 92.5 mm forged off-the-shelf Wiseco pistons for the G54B with the coated skirts. They are used but in good condition with about 5000 miles of street use (no racing). The wrist pins and a NEW set of Wiseco piston rings are also included. Best offer, located in NJ. E-mail me at grassom@gmail.com for pics. Thanks, Mario.

This turbo is a Mitsu-Garrett hybrid prepared by Forced Performance and is equivalent to a Frankenstein level 4. Its in excellent condition with no shaft play and about 5,000 miles of normal driving using only synthetic oil. On the cold side: the compressor wheel is a Garrett T04E 60 trim in the 3" inlet Mitsubishi TD06 compressor housing. On the hot side: the turbine wheel is a TD06 mated to a stock turbine housing that has been machined to accept the larger TD06 turbine wheel. It is internally gated (actuator included) and is a direct bolt-on to the stock exhaust manifold/down pipe. This turbo performs incredibly well with virtually no lag, incredible power potential, and no boost creep. I will include a good stock exhaust manifold (no cracks) at no extra charge. Best offer. Located in NJ. If your interested e-mail me at grassom@gmail.com for pics. Thanks, Mario.[/img]

What is the current estimated time frame for these gaskets to be finished? Just wondering. Thanks, Mario.

Is it too late to place a deposit? Thanks, MarioG.

Put me down for a set of engine mounts and manual transmission mounts. Thanks, Mario.

hey topdawg_43 i'll pay by CC... 1. i need the E6k wiht included kit components 2. Don't need the map sensor ;D 3. need basic connector kit 4. need E6K connector kit 5. Need electric boost controller trim kit (Does anyone know what this consists of ?) let me know what is going on.. 8) thanks mario

Do you guys think there will be a possibility to get the E11. Isn't that suppose to be very good, with the 3D mapping... it mignt be worth it for all of us to lock a price in now on the E11 and place an order.. anyway, i need an e-management system and it looks like it will either be the E6k or the E11, depending on what everyone decides.. my zip is 07079 let me know what we are gonna do thanks mario

hey there i'm in for a system (e6k) let me know what i have to do... mario

I was running TEP's "400hp" Bosch pump. The manufacturer's link for the SX pump is: http://www.essexind.com/sx_page2.htm Do a search on yahoo for venders if your interested in buying one. Later, Mario.

I am using the Wintec 2 with my Tec-II. Having used the old software, I can really appreciate the windows version for user friendliness. Plus, it allows you to visualize the timing and fuel curves in graphic form, which I used to do using Excel before wintec came along. But there are some glitches in the system. For me, the biggest advantage to the new system was the ability to program in real time using the Onfly option. I have found that at times changes do not actually go in unless I reprogram the Tec the conventional way. Also, sometimes the system gets confused and floods the engine horribly until you shut the key of and allow it to reset. One other shortcoming is the autocalibrate option. You use this function to "automatically" calibrate the Volumetric efficiency table while driving, but I have found that I get better results by doing it myself.

Don't forget the fuel pump! At one point I was has having fuel supply issues despite having large injectors. After testing the pump I was shocked to find that it couldn't even supply the amount that the injectors could at 45 psi, let alone under boost. I have since switched to the SX pump, which looks like a cannon and is pretty noisy but will definately fulfill your needs. Later, Mario.

To get the TPS voltage at WOT just turn the key on and open the throttle maximally while monitoring engine functions. You can read the idle and WOT TPS voltage off of either the analog or digital engine monitor screens. Also, I think the BSFC for a turbocharged engine is about 0.60. I have to admit though, I never used the tuning Wizard. Once you have a timing curve, it only takes two numbers (TOG and IOT) to get the car running. I started of with the maximum allowable TOG, based on the time between engine revolutions (which is basically the inverse of maximum RPM expressed in msec/revolution). Then, the car should start and you may have to adjust the IOT to get the idle and low speed mixture where you want it. Then, once you're satisfied with those two numbers you go on to fill in the VE table. However, in my experience with a good intake manifold (injector placement is key) and good injectors only a properly set TOG and IOT are necessary to make the car driveable. VE corrections, followed by acceleration enrichments allow for fine tuning. Hope that helps. Later, Mario.

Wouldn't resurfacing the head or decking the block RETARD the cam timing?

The main feature you want for driveability is an organic disc, i.e. no bronze/ceramic pucs. They tend have very harsh engagement. I have been using an ACT extreme pressure plate (2700psi) with an organic RX7 turbo disc. I am running a T04E 60 trim with an MPFI, and I have not had any slippage issues, however I do not launch or race the car. About RPS, when I was building my engine I was told by RPS that they do not manufacture their turbo pressure plate for the Conquest any more. From what I understand its equivalent to the ACT preassure plate anyway. Hope that helps, Mario.

Correction, a T04E 60 trim is much larger than a 20G. I used to have a 20G, but I had to convert to a 3" inlet TD06 compressor housing to fit the T04E 60 trim compressor wheel. If I remember correctly, the 20G inducer is about 2", whenereas the T04E is more like 2.3". That's a huge difference! Later, Mario.

The valves are new stock replacements, so the tips must be hardened. When I realized that the roller cam had such a smaller base circle I figured lash caps would be the easiest way to correct it. Its been a while, but I think I got the Comp Cams .080" lash caps. I'll have to double chack to be sure though. They provided proper lifter preload, so I don't understand why they would ever come out. What can be done to keep them in? Mario.

Okay guys, this is something I've thought about. I've been using the V6 roller rockers with Schneider's 284RH cam for some time now without any problems (except it developed a valve tap and I fear that a lash cap has come out). Apparently, the roller rockers are different ratio than the stock 2.6 rockers, and based on what I see here there are a mess of different ratio rockers. But, doesn't the fact that the camshaft and rocker shafts are fixed in position mean that the cam timing will change with different ratio rockers? Think about it, for them to be different ratio there has to be a length change from the fulcrum (where the rockers pivot on the rocker shaft) and the point where the roller touches the cam. In fact, if you even visually compare a stock rocker and a V6 roller rocker you will see that the roller rocker is identical on the valve side and shorter on the cam side (hence the higher ratio). The problem is compounded by the fact that the intake and exhaust valves are on different sides on the camshaft, meaning that you cannot simply adjust the cam timing to correct for it, rather the cam must be specifically ground for it. When I bought the cam from Schneider I was told that it was specifically ground for these roller rockers, but I think that they were only refering to the special profile needed to correct for the smaller diameter of the roller as opposed to the arch of the regular rockers. What do you guys think, are these legitamate concerns? Mario.

I am using an Electromotive Tec-II. I have had it for a couples years now, but my car hasn't exactly been used a daily driver. My experience has been that with a good intake (injector placement is critical) and wiring job, you will be very satisfied. Its pretty easy to get the car running decently, since there are just two basic numbers that control low load, and max load pusle width. From there you just have to fine tune the volumetric efficiency. As for the ignition timing curve, I haven't had the nerve to tune it the official way, which requires that you advance the timing to just before it starts to ping. Otherwise, my biggest complaint is the inconsistency. Sometimes it will run great, then suddenly something will change. I have also had a couple sensor failures, including a magnetic pickup that left me stranded many miles from home. If I had it to do over I might go with a Haltech or a Motec. I haven't had any other experience with programmable EFI's, so I don't know which is the best. I understand that some of the high-end systems are much more expensive, but when it comes to reliability and consistency, the better quality will make it well worth it. Hope that helps, Mario.