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subframe connectors?


Mech
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sweet. but, He needs to post bigger and more detailed pics.

 

When building a set of SFC's, shouldnt the car be on a 4 post lift, to ensure a tension free install?

 

I was envisioning something more complex than just 1 bar from front to back.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I plan on going nuts with square tubing in the rear of my SQ. It'll look a lot more like a front K-frame when I'm done. If at all possible, I plan on using bushings from a 240SX.

i agree you would need to run from one side to the other with some sort of x patern to get any use out of them. or you could do like i did and put in a roll bar with door bars.

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pointless. get a cage if you're concerned about chassis flex. even when i jack up one corner of my car as high as possible, i can still open the doors.

 

 

I would agree that a cage is the best way to go, but not everyone has the money to go that route.

 

I have to disagree about the subframe connectors. Are you saying that Strut tower braces are a waste?

 

Just because you an open your door doesnt mean the chasis isnt flexing. Its a lot different when you are going around a track or cornering vs jacking the car up.

 

I would be more impressed if while jacking up ( say the LR of the car ) the LF of the car came up with it.

 

Between front and rear strut tower braces, and subframe connectors, you could add a lot of rigidity. and i dont think thats a waste at all.

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has anyone got a way to measure the twist of the chassis? that would cut to the chase and we could know what works. the only one i have seen is to bolt the back side of th chassis to a table and apply twist to the front of the chassis. but if there is an easier way i would love to know.
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I have to disagree about the subframe connectors. Are you saying that Strut tower braces are a waste?

 

 

man don't even get me started on strut tower braces!! hahaha biggest waste of money/effort IMHO. strut tower braces don't triangulate anything axial in regards to the way the car wants to twist.

 

the strut tower brace is ultimately there to keep the tops of the struts a uniform distance from each other. which is basically pointless because you'll reach the limits of tire traction before you start applying kind of force required to literally push the towers closer together.

 

 

and too me, the subframe connectors are pointless as well

 

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2018/conquest023md8.jpg

 

soooo, all the chassis twisting that the brace is suppose to prevent is going to get carried by a couple nut/bolts though what amounts to 3/16th worth of sheet metal in the frame rail.

Edited by patra_is_here
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I still think the best bang for the buck is a 6 point roll cage.it ties the front with the back and gives an extra safty factor. plus you can get the weld in kits for about $500. looking at the prices of a lot of the parts out there it seems fairly inexpensive. not to mention the cool factor when you pick up your chic. yeah .......... i'm a racecar driver ............cool huh.
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Yes, i AGREE that a roll cage is the best way to go. There no agrument there.

 

But back onto the subject of strut braces. If you look at the pic's of the Group A starion in the link i provided, You will see that it has a very extensive Roll cage, and they still use Strut tower Braces front and rear. If STB were point less, then why would they use them on a car that already has a roll cage with probably at least 15 points to it?

 

Structurally, the strut towers themselves are "flimsy". One of the pics of the Group A starion shows the front strut towers have been re-enforced by a piece of metal that has been riveted to the strut tower itself. Man thats a lot of work for something that doesnt matter.

 

Have a look at pictures of the IMSA starion http://www.davewolin.com/starion.htm. If you think the group A starion has an extensive roll cage, its nothing in comparion to the IMSA car. Even so, the IMSA starion still uses a front strut tower bar. The cage even runs along the floor of the car front to rear, where its welded in to the floor. Sort of like sub-frame connectors but inside the car.

 

I wish Chad could post some pics of the IMSA starion. I'd love to see them. I'm assuming he still owns the car.

 

BTW patra, the pic of the sub-frame connector you posted, it looks janky, not what i had im mind

Edited by Mech
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Yah, I still have the car. the front has a strut brace because class rules banned the roll cage from extenting beyond the firewall so that was the only way to stiffen the front.

 

There is also a tower brace to the firewall, the brace on the firewall just happnes to bolt to a point on the firewall where some of the cage is welded to the firewall (rules work-arround on not letting the cage extending past the firewall).

 

It has nothing under the car for bracing.

 

It's semi seam welded (stich welded) where as most all-out race cars do full seam welds. I asked Dave about this, he told me the cage made it so ridiculously stiff that seam welding was not even needed. It's stitch welded moslty because all the panel glue is gone, the unibody was acid dipped to remove 100% all the coatings and to thin the metal a little bit. I was told the car weighs about 2500 pounds race ready

 

A 12" long 2 dimensional piece of stright pipe has far less strength than a 3 dimensional cage, geometry is your friend :)

 

About the only use for subframe connecotrs on a quest is for those doing 500+HP drag launches where all the force is in just one direction.

 

Riding in that car is like riding in a go-cart with no suspension.

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Hey Chad, can you pleeeeeeeease post some nice detailed interior and engine bay pics?? I'm trying to get some ideas. I'm really interested in the cage design.

 

Plus, i dont recall you ever sharing any pics with us. Thats some SQ history you got right there. :) :) :)

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i'm interested also chad. don't know you but would like to see some better pics. seems like you have a good design there. i have a star with a v-8 in it that i will be auto-xing and would like to keep it as stiff as possible without going over the edge. those pics could help.
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  • 4 weeks later...

Doing some lurking here and saw this thread and my name mentioned. Hello my old friends!! As for the subframes, they were modified Fox Body Mustang subframe connectors that we had laying around the shop. They weren't modified that much really as I recall. I also had an 8 point rollcage in the car as well as some extra bracing going all the way back to the differential area. I know I have pictures somewhere of the whole setup. I think I found them...

 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2469/3221/6171610003_large.jpg

 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2469/3221/6171610024_large.jpg

 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2469/3221/6171610021_large.jpg

 

That's really about all the pictures I have of it. Here's the link to my Cardomain page with all my pics...

 

Cardomain Page

 

Hope this helps.

 

Laters,

 

Brian

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Doing some lurking here and saw this thread and my name mentioned. Hello my old friends!! As for the subframes, they were modified Fox Body Mustang subframe connectors that we had laying around the shop. They weren't modified that much really as I recall. I also had an 8 point rollcage in the car as well as some extra bracing going all the way back to the differential area. I know I have pictures somewhere of the whole setup. I think I found them...

 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2469/3221/6171610003_large.jpg

 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2469/3221/6171610024_large.jpg

 

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2469/3221/6171610021_large.jpg

 

That's really about all the pictures I have of it. Here's the link to my Cardomain page with all my pics...

 

Cardomain Page

 

Hope this helps.

 

Laters,

 

Brian

 

Hey Brian, good to see you around. What have you been up to?

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